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5 GT Turbo Renny 5 sleeper

Also going to stick this here about the Clio 2 1.2 16v steering rack mod. I know we’ve just spoke about it in another thread and it’ll probably get lost in the massive pile of threads but I’ll post it here for future reference.
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Think mine came out of a ‘03 Clio 1.2 16v. Literally bolts straight to the subframe top bolt holes (not all four like the standard rack) the rack threaded ends needed to be cut down because they were too long for the hubs to be pointing straight instead of the huge amount of tow in when it was first fitted 🤣

I run Clio 172 hubs so the track rods are a direct fit so I’m unsure if they will fit into GTT hubs 🤷🏼‍♂️ If not then I guess you might be able to screw on the GTT track rods onto the Clio 1.2 rack?? Obviously it’s unknown territory as far as I’m aware but I’m sure someone on here will find out. Only other thing to note is that I couldn’t find a proper gaitor to cover the UJ so I just spray it with silicone spray every now and then.
 
Both Me and the missus enjoyed CSF. Regret not camping but it was my step mums birthday on the Sunday and was meeting up with them in the Peak District for the day. We’ve said we’ll definitely camp next year though and I’ll book track time for the 5! Drove down with coops in the morning and had a Mc D’s on the way. I do like his setup in the mk1 and is literally like for like with dannys’s mk1 clio (apart from ITB’s) Couldn’t believe how hot it was though and I’m great full the TR gazebo was there to give my skin a rest from the heat 🤣 was nice to meet you all and have a catch up with others. Looking forward to the next outing and hoping that the TR group with be at Retro Rides which me and the missus have already booked camping 👀

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Since the weather has been warm I’ve been going out at night to set some 0-60’s on the dragy box. Done plenty of runs and I just can’t seem to better 5.6. It’s really hard set off with out spinning the wheels in 1st and 2nd and this was literally my best run.

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Because it was dark I can’t really get any inside footage so thought I’d post this video of a good launch from the traffic lights from a previous day…



More to come….
 
after a huge absence I’m back 👀 been a busy winter and now springs on its way it’s time to get some jobs done. First port of call was the front engine mount which had collapsed through its arse.

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Bought a new mount and also purchased the “gtx” bracket from one of the guys off the b18ft groups. Dunno if anyone else has issues with going though mounts but this is my 3rd front mount and I’m also on my 2nd rear mount. The front gearbox mount is still the 1st one and still looks in good Nick
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New vs a year of abuse. Also pics below of “gtx” mount which did move the engine closer to the offside suspension strut tower but there’s still afew millimetres of clearance for the engine to move.
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Didn’t get any pictures but did have to make some clearance on the left hand side of the bracket to clear an area around the water pump casting. After that was done I’d got fed up with how bulky the 172cup alternator setup was and decided Togo down the rose joint adjuster route. My mate had a spare so had a cheeky five finger discount on that 👀

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You can see where the front cross member has been “plated” to fit the cup alternator setup which I’ll sort out at a later date!! Anyway, new set up is loads better!! Can adjust it without taking the bumper off (unlike the cup setup) and ended up selling the cup alternator bracket and adjuster for £100 👏🏼 after completing this task the fucking clutch cable snapped! Only one that I could find quickly was from CGB-Motorsport which sent out next day delivery but the fire wall grommet was incorrect!! 2A59C3C8-7C6F-445F-B045-FFA065B69D73.jpeg
After battling with it for hours trying to rag it through the firewall I decided it would be easier just to reuse the grommet of the old clutch cable and it literally took 2mins!
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So, after that dilemma I decided to tackle the issue of not running no air filter on the ITB’s!! The trumpets were 5mm shorter than the air filter and not making power on EFI’s rollers (not letting the engine breath) forcing me not to run a filter which has ended up with me cleaning them out each month from carbon build up. I’ve done some research and found jenvey actually do trumpets to order. With the space between the engine and slam panel being very tight I needed some trumpets which the bolts went through the front of the trumpet making it easier for me to service them and also giving them enough room inside the filter to let the car breath and make power.
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after fitting these and the filter I took it for a rip and I’m glad to say that there’s enough room to let the car breath and once again my cars an absolute animal which now has a proper air filter!! Another job ticked off the list now it was time to tackle the front coilovers, which looked like they’d been chucked to the bottom of the sea with the titanic!! Also with this I’d gained a knock which I believed with the OE campus top mounts. After chatting to afew lads including Brigsy I’ve put my hand in my pocket and purchased some COMPBRAKE top mounts. Was told by afew lads that I had to buy billet spring caps from GAZ so that there’s not interference between the top mount and spring cap. 174C61D1-519E-4617-B9D4-DCBDC59355C7.jpeg
After fitting these I noticed that the bearing collar wasn’t sitting correctly on the suspension strut shaft.
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Rang GAZ and told them the issue and they said that they can machine the shaft to allow the collar to sit right and I also took this opportunity to have my coilovers reconditioned and also purchase some heavier springs.
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Collar now sitting flush with the strut shaft and now that is sorted I was a piece of cake to build the rest up and fit them.
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Beefy 350lb springs… hopefully these will sort afew handing issues I had on 250lb springs.
Dampener adjuster is now billet and not shitty plastic like the ones I’ve had in the past!! 👏🏼👏🏼
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After fitting I adjusted to maximum camber which gave me -3degrees (looked cool but way too much) 🤣 once adjusted for caster it now sat at -1degrees of camber but was unsure about measuring the caster, any caster is better than non I guess. Will have to get the geometry done at a later date but all looks good and drove ok.
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To be continued…
 
Just love your little car @Renny 5 !! It’s coming back HARD for summer 23!! 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻

Did GAZ refurb them and leave them looking like they were at the bottom of the sea?? That new GAZ sticker looks a little at odds with the finish on the coilovers??
 
Just love your little car @Renny 5 !! It’s coming back HARD for summer 23!! 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻

Did GAZ refurb them and leave them looking like they were at the bottom of the sea?? That new GAZ sticker looks a little at odds with the finish on the coilovers??
Cheers Steve. I assumed that when you’d ask for a “recondition” of your coilovers then you’d expected them to be back new but apparently not. I spoke
To a friend of mine who also runs GAZ and he said that you have to ask for them
To be rebodied if you want them looking like brand spankers which is a couple of hundred quit ontop of what I paid. They’ll do for now though as I’ve got other expenses to pay for and they work as they should now which is better than they were
 
Cheers Steve. I assumed that when you’d ask for a “recondition” of your coilovers then you’d expected them to be back new but apparently not. I spoke
To a friend of mine who also runs GAZ and he said that you have to ask for them
To be rebodied if you want them looking like brand spankers which is a couple of hundred quit ontop of what I paid. They’ll do for now though as I’ve got other expenses to pay for and they work as they should now which is better than they were

Wow, strange that, but I guess they are refurbishing the operation of the shocks, not the aesthetics, and as long as they do the job that's most important.
 
Cheers Steve. I assumed that when you’d ask for a “recondition” of your coilovers then you’d expected them to be back new but apparently not. I spoke
To a friend of mine who also runs GAZ and he said that you have to ask for them
To be rebodied if you want them looking like brand spankers which is a couple of hundred quit ontop of what I paid. They’ll do for now though as I’ve got other expenses to pay for and they work as they should now which is better than they were
I have some I need doing once I’ve built my 5. Just need some matching coilovers for the front.

Bought a 172 a while ago from Gaz it was at the factory I think he was the nephew.
 
Took the 5 to a local geometry specialist to have the front setup. Tried to aim for -1degree on camber and as much castor as possible. With how I positioned the top mounts and adjusting the camber so both sides were equal I ended up with -2degrees of camber and quite a bit of castor (I don’t actually know how to measure this properly) 🤦🏼‍♂️🤣 after this I took the 5 for a thrash and it drives amazing!! The suspension is a lot more compliant now and is lot more comfortable even though I’ve gone from 250lb to 350lb springs. I now think that there was an issue with the campus OE mounts I was running as I can’t think why solid mounts would make it a more settled ride.32B08580-517D-42B2-B699-9FEBCA93E2E8.webp
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I’m really impressed with the top mounts though and will definitely advise any one else to get them fitted as it’s been a night and day difference on mine. after looking at the position of the top mounts I will have to reposition them and go back to have them set up and aim for -1degree of camber as I’m still getting wheel spin coming out of corners/roundabouts or maybe this could be just a fettling with the dampers. Also to help with the weight transfer issue in corners I’ve purchased a 23mm anti roll bar (Williams arb) as my current arb is only 21mm so I’ll need to purchase some more polybushes and swap everything over.
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It’s abit rough but it’s gunna get chopped down slightly and powder coated red at a later date when the engines out. Since I’ve been tinkering with it I’ve also noticed there’s been oil appearing on the rocker cover.
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Found the VVT solenoid seal had seen better days so I’ve swapped that out for a brand spanker which should now see me out 👀.

Also, I’ve got my old GAZ 250lb springs up Forsale on eBay:


Want £50 for them but will let them go for £40 plus P&P
 
More positive castor is absolutely the way forward for a good handling R5. The difference it made to mine was awesome, straight line stability and cornering is so much better.

What tyres are you running? Mine with -2.5deg is good when getting on the power exiting a corner in the dry.
 
I’m running 195/50/15’s ps3. I know they’re not the best tyre going but I really do like them and don’t really have much trouble with cornering or throwing into any corner at speed… it’s just spinning up the inner wheel when exiting a corner (which obviously has less weight on it that the outer wheel)
 
I think you will always struggle a little with traction on ps3 when absolutely on it, they are a good tyre though great for all conditions but fwd and decent power in a light chassis will always be a pain on normal road tyres.

Bang some semi slicks on for summer, and/or gripper plate diff. That will sort it
 
Definitely semi’s will help and I’ll certainly will be running them on track but I have had a few bum twitching moments with semi’s on the rear, just can’t seem to get any heat in them where as the PS3’s I don’t have an issue and the car has a lot less lift off oversteer. When I had my box built, Northloopcup gave me a choice of quaife or gripper and now I’m really used to how The car drives, I kinda wish I went gripper 🤦🏼‍♂️
 
Which semis did you use? R888r usually quite progressive even when not up to temp.

The difference between helical quaife and gripper plate diff is insane.
 
I’ve had AD08r’s, giti gtr2’s. Did try dz03g’s aswell but they were catching on the rear arches bad. I am kinda limited with some tyres on the rear as the campus trims are tight in comparison to gtt arch trim
 
Yeah rear clearance is an issue on standard arches. I have the same issue on the Extra van, thats why ive stuck with 13s.

Stick with ps3 on rear and semis up front maybe.
 
Sometimes I think about changing to gtt hubs to run 13’s but then I hear how some folk have issues with wheel bearings going which i never really have an issues with plus, I couldn’t have mine any lower as the exhaust manifold runs underneath the subframe which soon I hope to sort out with this PMS manifold I’ve still got in the garage
 
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