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Twingo Adey's Twingo GT (F4R+T 2.0ltr engine swap)

I had the ducts turn up so popped them into place, fit up really nicely to the stock fixings. There's also a £5 discount running using the code "adeyspec" if you fancy some yourself (y) plenty of cars catered for. DUCT3D
Just need to order up some ducting now and get that fitted.

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Then today I took it for really good run out to caffeine and machine, now I've had it built for a while but today i really jelled with it. Managed to put some decent miles on it rather than just commute or pop to the shops. It really comes alive on the b roads, soaks up everything really well with the newer suspension settings and goes fucking well when prodded. Met up with @Big Steve - Raider which was really nice, good to catch up and saw plenty of Renaults. Unfortunately they had a big lambo meet going on in the afternoon so ushered us off at 12. Got a few pics but not as many as I had planned, was talking way too much to get around in the time we were there.



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hi adeyspec can you help me? I am trying to disassemble the dump valve to drive without I have seen on your forum how to proceed without the dump valve, that is to say by obstructing the bottom duct of the dump valve (the one that goes to the filter duct a air) is the small hose, I have exactly the same ramair filter air kit, I have to respect everything, but when starting when I drive the car these as if I had lost 50hp and no noise sound , as if its turning rich, thanks if you look at this post🙏
 
hi adeyspec can you help me? I am trying to disassemble the dump valve to drive without I have seen on your forum how to proceed without the dump valve, that is to say by obstructing the bottom duct of the dump valve (the one that goes to the filter duct a air) is the small hose, I have exactly the same ramair filter air kit, I have to respect everything, but when starting when I drive the car these as if I had lost 50hp and no noise sound , as if its turning rich, thanks if you look at this post🙏
Have you got a picture of what you have done? I usually remove it completely and block both the pipes and the pressure reference pipe personally.
 
thanks adey 🙏 here are the photos since the beginning that I have generated it with colored arrows, we agree that the little green arrow pipe must be blocked its these ok, but then I think I made the mistake in this place must be block the orange arrow pipe or another pipe that I cannot see?duudud.webpGOPR0209.webp
 
completely block the green red and orange arrowed pipes (y) you can remove orange arrowed pipe all the way back at the turbo intake hose (y) hope that helps
 
hello adey small questions of the evening, if the pressure of the turbo increases from 0.7 to 0.9 for example after a reprogramming, to run without dump valve with more pressure is to risk ?
 
Not much to update here as when I use it its been great (y) Not had much time on my hands to make any more "gap" videos but they will come 😁 Other than all the usual diesel bmw and mercs that try and push you along in the fast lane its been pretty boring on that front. ( Actually I do have one where I saw him coming a mile off and gave him some gapplebees pie as he tried to under take me 😂)

As a bit of maintenance/upgrade maybe, I have swapped out the thermostat. Now there has been nothing wrong with mine, works perfectly fine as far as I can tell though on hard long pulls I can get into the high 90s (normally mid to high 80s) I've not seen over 98 yet but I am well aware I'm running a radiator smaller than standard for the engine in a cramped engine bay which gets quite toasty. I wanted to give it a little extra helping hand as when I get to a track day I'm sure it'll get hotter than that again. I've slapped in the Clio 197 75 degree thermostat to try and help with this in the future, the stock in there was an 89 degree item, stamped 01/05 so I'm sure its the original to the engine. A little bit of an old school way/band aid way of doing things but will hopefully help and hold up fine when I start kicking its head in some more.

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Remember the coolant thing was being discussed on @Clarkey racing car thread. As far as I am concerned they are not all the same and a good one is worth another 3 rows on your radiator. If you see what I mean.
generally I just throw in oem or oem equivalent coolant from a factors, do you have any recommendations?
 
Might be worth a bit of internet investigation. Personally I use 60% Water (is your water ok) and 40% Bluecol Ethylene Glycol antifreeze. I found this gave me an engine that was 4-6 degrees cooler than Comma super cold master Antifreeze, which was supposed to be the same make up. There are still a few about who say raw water is a better coolant than water/antifreeze, but they are talking about alcohol based products which do not conduct heat as well as water. only issue with Bluey is it WILL find every weakness and the tiniest leaks in your system. Then there are water wetters a form of non corrosive detergents that de-oxygenise water (this is one of the ways washing powders work) which will improve the rate of heat transfer from the motor to the coolant. One of the vagaries of being a heating engineer in a previous life.
 
If your water is bad you would need to use de-mineralised water. Problem is that Hard water is generally good for people, fauna and flora. Just bad for cooling systems or anything that heats water, Boilers ,engines, etc.
 
I will collect the water from my tumble dryer and use that for mixing with the antifreeze when I swap it out, that should be similar shouldn't it? I want to do a full fluid swap on the car soon anyway
 
High 90s is not really too excessive on these engines mate, if it held that and no issues id just send it on stock stat.

Will cooler stat cause it to hit the cold limiter when initially booting it after crusing? Assuming its got one that is. The mk2 megs suffer from this when the stat goes weak causing cooler cruising temps.
 
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