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Twingo Turbo Twingo Project RS200

ill have a look through my pile of parts, I don't have the block but I may have the banjo bolts
 
Saw some pictures whilst browsing for other things and thought of yourself, how the oil feed and return are done on N/A+t F4r's

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Thanks. Now that makes me want an engine stand even more!
Oil, feed coming off filter so I can also tap in a gauge to monitor temperature. Water I'm more confused on, talking to Pirtek tomorrow to get measurements done.

Ordered myself some calipers and a carbide die grinder....going to DIY the manifold as got Friday off work for teat fitting....what the worst that could happen!
 
Day in the rain, test fitting.

Intercooler needs mounting points removed to fit flusher, maybe bumper cut, probably crash bar "alteration".

One side all pipework done, until turbo and manifold are fixed, can't work the last bend out. Grinding cast iron is a pain, so thats taking time. Air intake is now a cone, box and resonator all removed. Will swap the new cone to the turbo intake later. Need to think about if I need / want bov, but plenty of space there.

Other side, washer bottle removed, very little room still. Headlights, fuel line, ac lines, scuttle all in the way. Nothing a hammer can't sort I'm sure.

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Quick update / issue....
Looking at sump drilling for oil return. Long 120cm drain line from rear of engine to front. The circled bolt looks perfect if it goes into the sump? Is anything below that line "sump", I know mx5s have a perfect almost prepared area to drill, but I'm not sure on the Twingo.
Any ideas?

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That's the front of the engine isn't it? long way for it to travel from the back of the engine, is there nothing on the back that looks suitable?
 
It's just because that's where the oil filter is and I'm already running one line that way.
Probably taking coolant from a radiator hose too, and that's all in the same direction. I guess shorter is better especially for a drain.
 
The drain needs to be big and of no restriction at all, if the oil backs up in there it will cause smoking. It should also return above the oil level line.
 
Id go at the back of the block for the drain. Minimum 15mm id pipe with no kinks, larger and straighter the better and needs to be above oil line.
 
So I was lucky enough to have a chat with a twingo turbo driver... and with some added knowledge, and Adeys invite to Santapod at the end of March....going to get properly into gear with this. His help is really appreciated - but for everything I think I know, there seems to be another question I hadnt thought of.

So the turbo is off being cut and welded and manifold is being readjusted again. Once these are back I can get the exhaust downpipe to scorpion adaptor made.

Front crash bar is off and I'm going to sand, cut, sand, prime and paint it.

Scuttle panel needs some proper heat and hammering, so that's off to a blacksmith because my creme brule blow torch isn't cutting it.

Have removed spare inlet manifold to modify for new Map sensor and then either the to powercoat, or DiY wrinkle paint black.

My suspicions on the oil drain were confirmed and the t40 blanking screw seems perfect. Yes it's a 116cm line, but it flows well....I think. If its proven to work, then I happy to try. 45 degree fitting, custom an10 lines made up to length, either to oem oil drain as pictured, or will use whole new parts. Thinking that now would be the time to add a cooler or oil filter relocation kit....make it easier to swap out?

Now I'm back stuck on turbo vaccuum lines. So the oem air feed has a vaccum line going to it, so I need to connect that in. The megane turbo has ecu boost control, and I'm not using any....yet. I know I can add in later, but aim is to get it running, so I can get it base tuned, then I can perfect the recipe!

Onwards. Have a great day 😀 🤘

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