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Twingo Adey's Twingo GT (F4R+T 2.0ltr engine swap)

So back with a little bit of work on the car, namely looking into the driveshaft issue I have/had. I was unsure if my driveshaft was knackered or if it was bottoming out under compression, removing camber and raising the ride height 5mm seemed to cure it..... Whilst chatting with Chris he suggested checking how much free play there was in the shaft by simply removing the hub nut and tapping it back as far as it would go until it went solid, he had measured an average of 20mm push back on factory cars and he works with that figure when making custom shafts for the drag car. I gave it ago on the side i have an issue, and i only measure 6/7mm before it binds up and stops moving. Now this is an issue as I'm running pretty much 0 camber currently, the factory alignment asks for near 1 I think and I generally have about 1.5 neg for spirited driving and getting out of corners. Adding this back in will push the driveshaft in more causing the issue again...

So I need to do some investigation, see if there's some combo or some machining I can do without having a shaft made up for it. Maybe there's a way I can push the wishbones out a little to gain some width, I seem to remember someone making elliptical wishbone mounts. Need to put my thinking hat on to get it done the PMT way.
 
So back with a little bit of work on the car, namely looking into the driveshaft issue I have/had. I was unsure if my driveshaft was knackered or if it was bottoming out under compression, removing camber and raising the ride height 5mm seemed to cure it..... Whilst chatting with Chris he suggested checking how much free play there was in the shaft by simply removing the hub nut and tapping it back as far as it would go until it went solid, he had measured an average of 20mm push back on factory cars and he works with that figure when making custom shafts for the drag car. I gave it ago on the side i have an issue, and i only measure 6/7mm before it binds up and stops moving. Now this is an issue as I'm running pretty much 0 camber currently, the factory alignment asks for near 1 I think and I generally have about 1.5 neg for spirited driving and getting out of corners. Adding this back in will push the driveshaft in more causing the issue again...

So I need to do some investigation, see if there's some combo or some machining I can do without having a shaft made up for it. Maybe there's a way I can push the wishbones out a little to gain some width, I seem to remember someone making elliptical wishbone mounts. Need to put my thinking hat on to get it done the PMT way.
Do 172 cups have a slightly wider track on the front? Do they run a different subframe?
 
So I've done some bad maths and I think I can gain and extra 12mm of plunge by swapping the cup and spider off the GT shafts to the DCI/172 shaft on the drivers side. If someone could agree with me that would be great lol

compared between the 2 the GT cup sits 5mm further on the shaft to start with, it then has a 10/11mm deeper body/engagement. The spiders gears themselves are 6mm bigger so half that difference for max depth.

5mm + 10mm - 3mm = 12mm correct?

Does this sound right, my heads fuzzy today but I think it works? So I just need to get access to a press to remove both cups and put the GT cup back on the DCI inner half shaft.

This would save making and running welded/modified wishbones though I'm not actually that bothered about that as the wider track would be beneficial

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So I've done some bad maths and I think I can gain and extra 12mm of plunge by swapping the cup and spider off the GT shafts to the DCI/172 shaft on the drivers side. If someone could agree with me that would be great lol

compared between the 2 the GT cup sits 5mm further on the shaft to start with, it then has a 10/11mm deeper body/engagement. The spiders gears themselves are 6mm bigger so half that difference for max depth.

5mm + 10mm - 3mm = 12mm correct?

Does this sound right, my heads fuzzy today but I think it works? So I just need to get access to a press to remove both cups and put the GT cup back on the DCI inner half shaft.

This would save making and running welded/modified wishbones though I'm not actually that bothered about that as the wider track would be beneficial

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...yes
Peter Griffin What GIF by Family Guy
 
When i look at your pictures the 'GT' marked shaft cup looks like it sits closer to the gearbox. So wouldn't that be the shorter drive shaft...
 
My neighbour runs his own Garage so did me a solid and let me come in and use his hydraulic press to build a shaft. Pushed off both the cups/tulips and reassembled the one I wanted in the correct orientation (GT Tulip on the DCI shaft and then the GT spider on the 172 outer shaft) I measured the the current in use shaft fully compressed and did the same for the new setup and its roughly 12mm shorter same as mentioned above. Happy with that, hopefully all is well and I don't need any more "plunge" (y) Just need to get it all aligned and test it down the B roads (y) oh and get 2 new tyres fitted, driving the last 500 miles with the toe out has destroyed these ones 🤦‍♂️

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After going mad to get this done I've not driven it since the start of the month.... 🤦‍♂️ kind of gone off the boil for it after cruising around in the Dope so much. I've booked in for 2 tyres and alignment next Monday through a mate for max discount. Just need to to double check the ride heights again to make sure all is still set where I want and hasn't settled. Hopefully with everything sorted ill be back out enjoying it (y)
 
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