Twingo Adey's Twingo GT (F4R+T 2.0ltr engine swap)

[Adey]

good to know, cheers

 

[Robx1r]

Looking good adey, it would be interesting to see how different fitting the ndo is

 

[Turbell]

Hat's off to you @Adey , you don't half crack on when you've got the bit between your teeth, no I'm gunna to this, I'm gunna do that.......

All I seem to do these days, is go into garage , look at stuff to do, then go and put kettle on.....again....repeat.

 

[Adey]

Looking good adey, it would be interesting to see how different fitting the ndo is

will be good to see

 

[Robx1r]

I'll just have a load of fresh cutting disks beside me just incase

 

[Adey]

Hat's off to you @Adey , you don't half crack on when you've got the bit between your teeth, no I'm gunna to this, I'm gunna do that.......

All I seem to do these days, is go into garage , look at stuff to do, then go and put kettle on.....again....repeat.

I use the energy when I have it, only nuts and bolts at the end of the day sometimes things don't work out though as per the flywheel/clutch thing but a quick bit of research shows another way may work. Working my way through things and using the parts bin gives my mind something to be occupied with in the background.

 

[Sparkysparks]

This twingo. Does it have in your opinion enough room for 2 kids seats in the back?

 

[andybond]

This twingo. Does it have in your opinion enough room for 2 kids seats in the back?

I had a 8 and 4 year old in the back of mine when I had a twingo 133.

 

[Robx1r]

This twingo. Does it have in your opinion enough room for 2 kids seats in the back?

Kids are flexible if you can get their shoulders in they fit

 

[Adey]

This twingo. Does it have in your opinion enough room for 2 kids seats in the back?

if you get the independent rear seats (which i think I standard on all but a rs133 cup) you can move them a fair way back and have very decent leg space

 

[Adey]

@Sparkysparks that f4r from the mk1 clio would go in one nicely

 

[Adey]

Nothing major to report. I spent a little time this morning swapping out sensors form the D4ft to the F4rt so I'd have less wiring changes to do. All the threads were the same so that was easy. Loom wise the odd bit may need extending but again nothing extreme.

All being well I should have another clutch setup here to look at next week too so the engine will come back out once that's here.



Also some pics of the d4ft block to gearbox face for you @Steve Swan, does it look anywhere close for a 330 box?

 

[Adey]

doesn't look a million miles off you know but a few mm makes all the difference so Im told..... the starter is on the wrong side of the block though that could possibly be sorted with a 9inch grinder

 

[Steve Swan]

Its pretty far away though. The old style has the main side mounts just above the crank centreline the D4ft has them below, so a totally different animal. it looks much taller than a C1J. It would have the same issue on an 807 type motor. Therefore the only more modern motor to fit a 330 is the K7M 1600cc 16 V motor. It would be possible to make an ally adapter plate, I suppose, but you stray off into all sorts of subsequent problems. Thanks for the pics @Adey it is the only way to know.

 

[Sparkysparks]

@Sparkysparks that f4r from the mk1 clio would go in one nicely

But that would leave a hole in the clio. Maybe for an f4rt haha

 

[Adey]

But that would leave a hole in the clio. Maybe for an f4rt haha

got a nice little D4ft that would be fun

 

[Adey]

Engine and box back out of the hole today hopefully for the final time. I've wrapped some of the brake pipes by the servo in a hope too keep them cooler once the downpipe is made. Short of removing the brake servo I'm not sure how I can create much more clearance at the back (yes I googled brake servo delete, my other car doesn't have one........) I could run a bonnet exit exhaust, that would sort things out nicely On a side note does anyone know where I could buy just the turbo outlet flange? The downpipe is currently my only major concern.

I've taken a look at the alternator bracket and luckily the smaller sized Twingo Alternator fits up perfectly, slightly smaller in size but already ran everything in the car including EPAS so should be still be perfectly rated to this setup as I cant see there been any increased load requirements? This allowed me to measure up a belt at a 7puk920 (ish) mm. I've opted to delete the lower idler but keep the upper tensioner roller to keep things tight. So both belts ordered up ready for a belt change, just need to borrow some timing tools.

Also re routed some of my fuel lines so they are tucked out of the way abit more, ill be running a rising rate fuel pressure regulator again as recommended by Scoff. I may put something more around these later in the day if engine/bay temps are high.

 

[Steve Swan]

On a Modern no servo = no brakes. Floorplan mount bias pedal box seems a bit extreme. Not to mention pricey sorry for using bad language mentioning cost........

 

[andybond]

I would put some metal ties on instead of plastic. If it gets hot enough to affect the fluid its going to make those tie wraps brittle ..

 

[Adey]

metal ties are on the way, the big heat shield over the top comes off quick enough