Turbell
Well-Known Member
Ok.....had a long conversation about this with trusted contact, as you'd expect doom and gloom.....but, agreed best , least chance of trouble would patch in , bit at a time.
I had a look , pressed Campus roof and I stand by keeping as close to screen surround as possible, where stiffness is, probably 40mm towards back of the car looks safest.
I'd start from where aerial hole is , let a section in towards area of rot that extends furthest, but stop short of it, then go from gutter towards same rot extended part, but stop short again.
Then put a 'tooth' section in that gets rid of that extended rot section.
By this time it would be well on the way, but consider making a profile of the better passenger side to offer up to bad side and see what's going right/wrong.
Obviously you're gonna need to butt weld with a good gap you're stiff confident you can bridge, loads of air, tack , air, middle out, left right, right left etc etc.....watch gap if pulls tight.
Keep tacking till it's continuous, if in doubt walk away and let it cool before doing anymore, grind it back and use a thin piece of rag and move it around with your finger tips and you'll feel if your getting highs and lows.
Disclaimer.....that's how I'd tackle it without a full skin, never done it on a fiver, never done that bad a skin on anything, I'm back street bodger....
I'd get lower surround in first, drop screen in before , measure all gaps as it stands, clamp surround, measure, plug, measure, stop , think measure, repeat repeat.
I think it'll be dandy, but I'd prep it, rattle it gloss black and check it, you can wipe it off with thinners and re skim it with top stop.....or realise it looks like Frankenstein's monster crotch and cry.....I'm rooting for you
I had a look , pressed Campus roof and I stand by keeping as close to screen surround as possible, where stiffness is, probably 40mm towards back of the car looks safest.
I'd start from where aerial hole is , let a section in towards area of rot that extends furthest, but stop short of it, then go from gutter towards same rot extended part, but stop short again.
Then put a 'tooth' section in that gets rid of that extended rot section.
By this time it would be well on the way, but consider making a profile of the better passenger side to offer up to bad side and see what's going right/wrong.
Obviously you're gonna need to butt weld with a good gap you're stiff confident you can bridge, loads of air, tack , air, middle out, left right, right left etc etc.....watch gap if pulls tight.
Keep tacking till it's continuous, if in doubt walk away and let it cool before doing anymore, grind it back and use a thin piece of rag and move it around with your finger tips and you'll feel if your getting highs and lows.
Disclaimer.....that's how I'd tackle it without a full skin, never done it on a fiver, never done that bad a skin on anything, I'm back street bodger....
I'd get lower surround in first, drop screen in before , measure all gaps as it stands, clamp surround, measure, plug, measure, stop , think measure, repeat repeat.
I think it'll be dandy, but I'd prep it, rattle it gloss black and check it, you can wipe it off with thinners and re skim it with top stop.....or realise it looks like Frankenstein's monster crotch and cry.....I'm rooting for you