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5 GT Turbo 11 years later silver bullet comes home

Which battery tray option

  • Leave as is with battery tray sections

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Fully remove all spot welds and battery tray sections

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • Leave battery tray in and trim/cut out sections not required to tidy

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
  • Poll closed .
Couple of hours and most of the time fine tuning, cleaning, hydro80 and then final prep

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With final measurements bead of tiger seal and clamped into place before a few tack welds to check position

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Screen in amd clearance the same all the way round and sitting level 🤘

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Will spot and plug weld when in next but happy all true
 
Another power hour update, not sure it if annoys you all or my wife more with such small bursts of slow progress 😅😅😅

Most of the plug welds done and started spot welds only cable not long enough and no time to put wheels back on.... decent extension cable be useful addition so will grab one this week

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With cradle going nowhere the urge was too much and started to dissect the roof. Positive the rot/rust goes no further 😎

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I think it'll all be dandy joining it there with care, I had Campus out for a jolly today, did a few jobs on it, pressed on the roof skin where you're doing the join and double curvature gives a fair amount of stiffness, so I think if you allow plenty of cooling and take your time , you'll piss it.
 
Think Duncan is trying to avoid join puckering up/down, it'll shrink and pull in as it's welded, if he's comfortable bridging that gap tacking along it, he should avoid lots of distortion?
I say this in capacity of a hobbyist, not a panel beater, not an expert.
At the end of the day , we do what we feel will work, whether it's correct, it's best practice or anything like what a pro would do , I dunno?

It's playtime.
 
When watching the welders at work they always started with a gap which was mainly dependant on the size of rod being used. There was a formula for all of this, but on site they used to knock the flux of a handfull of rods and bend then into a U shape and use them as distance pieces to set a job up and tack it. It was amazing to see welds that looked machine made, but were done completely free-hand, just don't ask them to weld anything less than an eighth thick ..
That said the theory must hold true and the best result would come from starting with a tiny gap, about the thickness of the mig wire you will use. The Manager of the Welding company once showed me a butt weld on 1mm sheet. He just clipped the edge of 1 piece in the brake to put a mil/ mil and a half turn on it. Then he put that as the rear piece and butted the other bit up to it. Then with the oxy Acetylene welded it together using the upstand as the filler rod. It was perfect when done. No dissimilar metals issues as you've used the parent metal as a filler.
Good luck with it. Get it tacked up, but move around, so you don't get hotspots and very short runs only, it's heartbreaking to stop with the welder singing away, but trying to do too much at once always ends badly....
 
Kept going resisting super strong urges to do a couple of tacks or short run and not skip the cool and have a feel (oooh err matron) steps

Very minimal touch bit of hammer on maybe 3 or 4 tacks and ended up with this......
 
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