5 GT Turbo 11 years later silver bullet comes home

[Duncan Grier]

Saturday consumed with painting neighbours garage floor with him and half a day helping a friend with his barn conversion.....thoroughly knackered had beers and more beers for good measure.

After 2nd coat of garage painting early this morning and family time and garden jobs got 3hrs credit to get in the garage just

 

[Duncan Grier]

Im ok ish with the welds, but happy all good...well imo

Will clean up fine and might fill a few gaps on one or 2 welds before flap disc attack

Gave a flash of zinc primer and get the rest welded in next instalation

Thanks for support & guidance from @Mark_L @Chris74# @DaveL485

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

Looking great @Duncan Grier

 

[DaveL485]

Looks fine to me, bad welds stick out a mile. Just check the back side for penetration.

 

[Duncan Grier]

Cheers @DaveL485

Certainty good heat transfer between both as per picks and looks like good penetration. Thin line as much longer started to blow a hole 🕳

 

[Duncan Grier]

Well due to work and family commitments 1st time back in the garage was tonight but got a decent 3hr run just .....almost sacked it off and opened a bottle of wine but stayed true to the 5 lol

So setup a bit of test metal to setup the welder and was looking ok

 

[Duncan Grier]

So got started on the 5....

Not 100% happy but it's on and will revisit prob tomorrow night with fresh eyes and decide on any rework. Finished off with quick run of the flap wheel and some primer before bk to get the kids to sleep

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

Looks bloody good that @Duncan Grier !!! Welding is certainly an art which takes some patience to learn!!

 

[Duncan Grier]

Thanks @Big Steve - Raider by the time the 5 is finished should definetly have improved. And no doubt blue 5 will want new sills, jacking point, etc etc

Hoping once this sill and jacking points are done I can get a few smaller bits ticked off before thinking about the other side for a moral boost

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

 

[DaveL485]

I'd add a trifle more power on that, you're getting a lot of weld on top for the penetration at the back. Otherwise, good show mate!

 

[Duncan Grier]

Cheers @DaveL485 welcome any pointers as always

Will try manning up on power when I go back over the inside just to be sure all good

Was using this setting for reference

 

[Turbell]

I'm interested to know why you're not butting the two pieces tight? Leaving a gap makes it harder to form a pool which you can then pull ( or push depending what you prefer/access ) or this a method you've used before or been advised is best on a butt weld ?
I make no claims ever to be a pro/expert welder but welding into a void is always harder?
I'm sure @Mark_L will know far better than me, but a tight butt will let you use more juice , flatter weld?

 

[DaveL485]

Very similar to what I use mate (mark the sweet spots in sharpie to make it easier to resume settings) - I'd add about 10% on the voltage there, just a tiny tweak.

 

[Duncan Grier]

@Turbell I am def more in the novice scale of the group so welcome all the good feedback

Went with that method for good use of the clamp inserts to reduce movement and control any movement with little bit of hammer and dolly

Was not too bad other than having to go revisit inside.....again maybe more power would have avoided

 

[DaveL485]

clamp inserts

I bought some of those but ended up not using them much. I preferred the tight joint making it easier to weld. A reactive/polarising welding mask helps with this loads as you dont have to drop the mask before you hit the trigger.

 

[Duncan Grier]

Guess experiance also but found interesting the change of characteristics from welding flat on bench v vertically on car....should have rotstimg the rottiserie lol

 

[Turbell]

I use strong magnets if I can't get clamps in, turn juice up for tacking, middle of section out each way, then drop power for runs, best bit of advice I got was the need to create the pool , then drag or push it along, don't get me wrong I usually start with the best intentions and it can turn to shit, so much to get right for a nice, good looking weld.
I hold the neck sometimes as well if I can't get a good rest on something, otherwise I end up waving the torch about like a piss head and his prick on a Saturday night....
Whip heads off tacks as well, then when you run up to them you won't have as much extra metal to add to the weld you've created.
I reiterate.... I'm a reasonably capable idiot, I make no claims to being good at it, I know my trade , but welding, cars even, ain't it.

 

[DaveL485]

I hold the neck sometimes as well if I can't get a good rest on something, otherwise I end up waving the torch about like a piss head and his prick on a Saturday night....

100% this, double handed wherever possible, helps keep it straight

 

[Mark_L]

I find having a gap gives more penetration with less heat so even though I use more power. Gives less distortion. Tig welding is different, Need the heat so no gap is good.

The clamps hold the position well too. The other issue is they gap tend to tighten as you tack it up so no gap can sometimes end up in an overlap at the other end. Can sometimes stretch a tack with a hammer and dolly.