DaveL485
Staff member
My S60 is the 163hp too, bought it at 121k 8 years ago, now on 248k - been a superb motor and sad to replace it with the XC, but we just dont have enough space in the S60 any more. I was confident it would get to 300k.
There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
21 Turbo The Scrapyard Quadra
- Thread starter DaveL485
- Start date
DaveL485
Staff member
Had half a day yesterday on the 21, got the gas refill so welded up the parcel shelf and axle mount.
On-point with the mug
Welding wasn't very good around the top bit, so I had a fiddle with the settings and it got a bit better
Went around underneath too, so it doesnt rattle or vibrate.
Primed it for the time being, i'll probably grind it back at some point but I was out of time as it was her birthday and I needed to go cook her dinner
On-point with the mug
Welding wasn't very good around the top bit, so I had a fiddle with the settings and it got a bit better
Went around underneath too, so it doesnt rattle or vibrate.
Primed it for the time being, i'll probably grind it back at some point but I was out of time as it was her birthday and I needed to go cook her dinner
DaveL485
Staff member
World of difference to a year ago isn't it. Just as I get on point i'll run out of stuff to weld!Looks like you've got your skills and welder settings dialled in at this point! Looking top notch!
Oh wait, I still have the 9 to do, defo won't
Neal R19
Well-Known Member
World of difference to a year ago isn't it. Just as I get on point i'll run out of stuff to weld!
Oh wait, I still have the 9 to do, defo won't
I think you should probably cut out all the stuff you did a year ago and redo it
DaveL485
Staff member
I had a week off last week, but it got sucked up with DIY housey things and family items. I did get a bit of time over the last weekend though so back to the old 21.
The house things have resulted in me losing the ability to hide car stuff in the living room, so the garage is overflowing a bit. I decided to refit the dash so I didnt have to find somewhere to keep it, of course this means trimming it around the roll cage. It's quite heavy with the loom, so I took the loom out too, this should be fun to put back!
I sized up the dash, it wouldnt drop in through the windscreen at all even being trimmed so I opted to cut one side to fit behind the cage, as I thought it would fit up with the OE bracketry. Then when that was in i'd have to trim it on the other side so it would slot forward past the drivers side cage leg. I didnt get many pics while I was hauling the dash about, but if you look closely at the front corner of the drivers side I have peeled up the faux leather and cut the plastic away to get it behind the cage leg
I had to make this little brace for some internal support where i'd trimmed
The central plug the dash locates from has broken part of the clip where it sits on the bulkhead so I sacked it off and tacked in a bit of M12 threaded bar
I made up some brackets for the drivers side, as I had to chop the mounts away to get it past the cage leg - these can stay in place when removing the dash too.
Stuffed it in place and you can see how the central mount is now a handy nut/washer to pull it in nice and tight
I am going to ask my mate with the Ultima to give me some tips to make some pluggy bits to trim up the cage where it passes through the dash. Doesnt look like the vents will go back in lol. I think I might get the dash flocked too.
The house things have resulted in me losing the ability to hide car stuff in the living room, so the garage is overflowing a bit. I decided to refit the dash so I didnt have to find somewhere to keep it, of course this means trimming it around the roll cage. It's quite heavy with the loom, so I took the loom out too, this should be fun to put back!
I sized up the dash, it wouldnt drop in through the windscreen at all even being trimmed so I opted to cut one side to fit behind the cage, as I thought it would fit up with the OE bracketry. Then when that was in i'd have to trim it on the other side so it would slot forward past the drivers side cage leg. I didnt get many pics while I was hauling the dash about, but if you look closely at the front corner of the drivers side I have peeled up the faux leather and cut the plastic away to get it behind the cage leg
I had to make this little brace for some internal support where i'd trimmed
The central plug the dash locates from has broken part of the clip where it sits on the bulkhead so I sacked it off and tacked in a bit of M12 threaded bar
I made up some brackets for the drivers side, as I had to chop the mounts away to get it past the cage leg - these can stay in place when removing the dash too.
Stuffed it in place and you can see how the central mount is now a handy nut/washer to pull it in nice and tight
I am going to ask my mate with the Ultima to give me some tips to make some pluggy bits to trim up the cage where it passes through the dash. Doesnt look like the vents will go back in lol. I think I might get the dash flocked too.
DaveL485
Staff member
Sunday I started on the biggest remaining rust infested shambles - the drivers side suspension turret.
It escalated QUICKLY
State of it! I decided the turret itself was saveable, and I didnt fancy changing it anyway lol. Cracked on with cleaning up.
It's quite pitted but salvagable I think. I layed some MIG over the front face and ground it back and treated it. This sits under the main skin anyway.
Then I made this bit and welded it in, the outer part I can refit as it's virtually untouched by tin worm. The front face I have a used turret, so i'll take it off that and patch it in next time.
It escalated QUICKLY
State of it! I decided the turret itself was saveable, and I didnt fancy changing it anyway lol. Cracked on with cleaning up.
It's quite pitted but salvagable I think. I layed some MIG over the front face and ground it back and treated it. This sits under the main skin anyway.
Then I made this bit and welded it in, the outer part I can refit as it's virtually untouched by tin worm. The front face I have a used turret, so i'll take it off that and patch it in next time.
Last edited:
DaveL485
Staff member
Continued with the turret this weekend, took my time breaking down the blue turret I took from the breaker and cutting it to fit.
I decided to refit the inner wing reinforcement before I did the turret
And welded up
Looks good
I tried to overlap the thinner bit of the turret face to prevent blowing holes by sort of feathering the edge and hammering a lip in to it. I didnt take a pic of it but you can probably see what I did from the welds on the back side.
There's a couple of scrappy bits in near the inner wing but overall i'm happy with the fit and welding. I seamed it around both front and back... it may seem like overkill but... it is a load bearing suspension turret. For info the 4 rows of weld you can see, top is from this side, 2nd is from the back, then from this side again, then from the back again... so good penetration of the weld without blowing holes through.
I wanted to dress that and prime it before I finished but some genuine Volvo roof bars came up for my XC90 in Teeside, and the guy was driving past me same day on way to Bristol so I bugged out early to go and meet him
I decided to refit the inner wing reinforcement before I did the turret
And welded up
Looks good
I tried to overlap the thinner bit of the turret face to prevent blowing holes by sort of feathering the edge and hammering a lip in to it. I didnt take a pic of it but you can probably see what I did from the welds on the back side.
There's a couple of scrappy bits in near the inner wing but overall i'm happy with the fit and welding. I seamed it around both front and back... it may seem like overkill but... it is a load bearing suspension turret. For info the 4 rows of weld you can see, top is from this side, 2nd is from the back, then from this side again, then from the back again... so good penetration of the weld without blowing holes through.
I wanted to dress that and prime it before I finished but some genuine Volvo roof bars came up for my XC90 in Teeside, and the guy was driving past me same day on way to Bristol so I bugged out early to go and meet him
Last edited:
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Some great work there Dave!!
Scary bits to work on for sure but overkill the way forward
Scary bits to work on for sure but overkill the way forward
DaveL485
Staff member
Want.
Mark_L
Well-Known Member
Get one of these Dave, this is a cheap one but these joggle and have a punch for plugging.
Heavy Duty Joggler Panel Flanging Hole Punch Tool For Sheet Metal Repair - 5mm | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Heavy Duty Joggler Panel Flanging Hole Punch Tool For Sheet Metal Repair - 5mm at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
www.ebay.co.uk
DaveL485
Staff member
Whats one of these when it's at home? Assume thats the proper word for the lip thing
Whats one of these when it's at home? Assume thats the proper word for the lip thing
Its when you jog and your fat wobbles.
Norwich Nick
Well-Known Member
Here’s an example of a joggled joint, not by me but I’m sure he won’t mind me sharing.
The car has previously had a pair of sill & rear repair sections fitted (only quite poorly)
How not to undertake a flanged / joggled joint - the joint is facing up
Which allows water / condensation to run down the inside of the panel and the joint fills with water which in turn forms a rust trap - flange / joggled joints should always face down not up.
The car has previously had a pair of sill & rear repair sections fitted (only quite poorly)
How not to undertake a flanged / joggled joint - the joint is facing up
Which allows water / condensation to run down the inside of the panel and the joint fills with water which in turn forms a rust trap - flange / joggled joints should always face down not up.
Neal R19
Well-Known Member
Here’s an example of a joggled joint, not by me but I’m sure he won’t mind me sharing.
The car has previously had a pair of sill & rear repair sections fitted (only quite poorly)
How not to undertake a flanged / joggled joint - the joint is facing up
Which allows water / condensation to run down the inside of the panel and the joint fills with water which in turn forms a rust trap - flange / joggled joints should always face down not up.
That's like putting the tiles on your roof working from the top downSimilar threads
- Featured
