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The Campus Turbo 'in stock' build

I would change that oil feed for a better setup, an fittings and ptfe line, it wont cost hardly anything to make a decent oil feed up. Ive used rubber pipe jubilee clipped on 20 years ago, which almost ended up in a fire when it failed, twice😆

Prob best off fitting a pre oil filter before turbo too after a rebuild, to stop any shite going through the turbo.
 
I would change that oil feed for a better setup, an fittings and ptfe line, it wont cost hardly anything to make a decent oil feed up. Ive used rubber pipe jubilee clipped on 20 years ago, which almost ended up in a fire when it failed, twice😆

Prob best off fitting a pre oil filter before turbo too after a rebuild, to stop any shite going through the turbo.

I was thinking about changing the clips. My mate reckons it’s going to end in a fire too. 😆
I didn’t actually ever price doing it with an fittings despite thinking about it a fair amount.
I might do that, if it’s cheap enough. If I do it RIGHT NOW I might get it for the weekend too, hmm..

In line filter, again something i had thought about after reading a previous conversation of yours on here recently. ill look at that too.

off to eBay it is then..
 
Loads of niggly wee shite jobs done.
not many photos to show for it due to the nature of these jobs.

clutch cable routed and working,

brake pedal connected to servo,

servo plumbed to Inlet and second Inlet barb removed.

Throttle cable mocked up, brackets altered etc, (I’ve decided to make do with what I had here, so I’ve got the campus throttle cable set up to work the carb, was missing bits of the GTT throttle linkage)

Choke cable and lever has turned up today,

Aei mounted in scuttle,

Campus look has been put back in for the start/charge and the sensors.

still need to get the Tdc pick up wires extended up to the aei, I’ll do that today as I found the right plug.

got to rewire the dash to use the 16v clocks but I’ve got a pin out for the campus loom and I’ve been through the clocks with power to identify what pins do what.

I gave the car power! For the first time in 3 years ish. Fuel pump is doing something but from what I’ve read I will need to change the wiring for that.

It turns over on the key, however makes a fucking horrible noise between starter and ring gear, this is probs something to do with starter position, GTT starter on 16v box,

new aux belt fitted.

Bracket made and catch tank mounted, piping changed slightly. Bracket painted blue as I have no black. (Ignore the barryboys filter, that will be changed)

filled with oil and has pressure up to turbo when cranking.😁👍🏼

coolant system filled up and bled as best as possible.

it’s really only a baw hair away from first start now.
I need fuel though.
Once I have throttle control and choke I think I’ll be ready to go for first start.

from what I’ve read I’m going to go for start up, when running, revs around1.75-2k for 15-20mins /through a heat cycle, and then off until it's time for road miles running in putting load on it, drop oil after that process and change.

with all the bumph on the net that’s what I’m going for.

Here’s a few photos, nothing exiting though, more to come this week I’m sure, cheers,

C7C1C17F-74BB-4E86-8DAD-63BF88E967CC.webpF31CFC86-9B6D-4831-8FA3-69FC9FF1BB80.webp18E40653-B5D6-406F-AD02-4C74267F163D.webp3F472843-245F-4812-AA9D-7CEFBED7E8D6.webp08B6528B-1384-4A6D-B5E9-960D72C84F12.webpE5C73855-571C-49FA-954C-FD3CD13F94EE.webp7FC85CD5-F034-45D7-8D19-A4D30FFEF5AD.webp1CFBFC7E-B93A-4F86-9520-70FB0847A263.webp
 
It might be the case but I’m sure it’s the GTT starter that’s on there, to go with the c1j flywheel, I don’t know, it’s easy enough to have a look at and I will.

some other bits turned up today so I got the throttle cable finished off
the choke cable is routed, mounted and working minus an Eclip

previous post I said I was missing throttle linkage bits so improvised, typically I found the missing bits today. But hay ho it seems to work well.

aei wire made up to the length needed
Second aei plug sorted out and cable run to cabin for tacho.
boost gauge hose also routed to cabin.
Waste spi loom pulled out of the engine bay
second engine earth strap added
Conduit added to tidy up the loose stuff in the bay

And finally went through the dash wiring to get the Clio clocks to work. Just roughly, I’ll fix it permanently once I have all the dash switches etc back in.

No photos to show once again really,
now I do just need to nip and get some fuel and I think we should be on for a start up 🤩

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I’ve been close to start up this week, I wanted to finish off the dash wiring so that I had crucial details for that start up, oil light tacho and water temp ideally.

so I’d gotten that all sorted, I get oil pressure while cranking and the tacho wants to do something. I’m pretty sure the temp guage is right but I remembered while messing with the Astra that I have a Temp. Function on my multimeter so i can monitor it that was also.

set then... apart from the slight oil leak that had developed from either, crank seal on fly end, or the sump in the same area...
It got worse when I jacked the car up on the one side, which made me hopeful.

Only one way to find out so spent a morning taking the sump off for a look. i found a gap at the corner where there just wasn’t quite enough sealer. I think anyway.
Cleaned up the sump and block, new sealer, PLENTY, and fitted back up.

left it overnight and refilled with oil. No leaks, left it jacked up at 45’ for about half an hour so I think it’s sorted. happy with that but a bit miffed that took up a day of time so just been messing with the Astra since.

I have got some fresh v power and hopefully a new rad fan will turn up tomorrow. Once that’s fitted there really is no reason not to start the car for the first time. Apart from my apprehension that it’ll go bang. Harhar

no pictures to speak of for that sump fiasco, I’ll get some on first start and then MOT prepfor road miles

cheers
 
Get a vid of first start👍

If the oil leak persists, worth checking the corners of the sump are not cracked where it turns at the curve for the half moon seal, quite common.
 
Frustrating when those jobs take longer than expected but sounds like you're almost there. Good luck with first start!
Thanks mate, it is /was frustrating but I’m glad it looks atleast like reselling has sorted it and I don’t have to pull the lot out to sort something more serious.


Get a vid of first start👍

yea I will try and sort that out, my mate mentioned that to me as well as he’s bored in his house haha
 
Right, yesterday i set about a couple of different jobs, first off was rad fan as that turned up so did a quick placement cut and joined on a plug I had around and fitted it

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put in a second actuator bracket to stop the flex,
Nice and sturdy for the time being but the actuator needs a better solution than that in the future.

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next thing on the list was the fuel filler neck, still needed to be fitted. I had 15l of v power there ready to go in but the problem is I don’t and never have had any keys for this car. And the filler cap (and the boot) are locked.

so before fitting that neck I had to do something about the cap. I looked at lock picking and decided to have a bash. Took an hour or so of research and fucking about but I got it unlocked.
That then got fitted up. Fuel in the tank, no leaks, fuel pump primes and putting fuel up to the carb.
and my gauge works,


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so that was all pretty good, left it thinking should be sound to start up tomorrow, today has come and first thing that bit me was the starter, it had locked up.
took this Opportunity to take it off as it had been making a hell of a noise anyway, discovered there were no dowels in it at all so I went and found some in another gear box and fitted a different starter that seemed to have some more oomph about it. Left the battery charging while this was being done.
EDEF1D89-DECF-483A-B19E-0AB0355899BD.webp

refitted and worked first time, sounds better too.

so I thought I would go for the start and see if there was life. Now there was a bit,
The fuel was there, the spark was there, charged battery and good starter was cranking well. It was popping and banging a bit and making noises like it was thinking about it, but to no avail.
I had the phone set up to video a couple of times aswell, very anticlimactic.
so trying choke on off, took the top boost hose off to try and just get it to fire and do something, give me something to start with. But getting nowt more than puffs and pops.
I’d forgot to plug the lambda hole, plugged it
I tried swapping the tdc wires around as I thought with the cam and it being on stock pulley like @Brigsy has said in the past it may well be miles out. But that didn’t make any notable difference so I swapped back and pulled the plugs to check spark. sparking seemed okay.

I thought while the plugs were out I would do a quick compression test, cylinders 4-1 one being fly end:

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Bawz



I whipped the rocker cover off and gave the head bolts and 8th of a turn, this improved no1 but not no4 where my real issue is. I thought on the back of that it did seem like a head gasket issue could be likely. So there was only one thing to do 🤷🏼‍♂️

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so, annoyingly, after much deliberation I think my head is flat. And I think my block is flat. and my gasket looked pretty well sealed when I looked at it and all other surfaces for any evidence of a leak.

what brand of head gasket would you guys recommend.? out of curiosity.

everything looks as it did when I put it together. Admittedly I never had the head apart at all.
but all the valves are shut fully on the head and free moving.

I’m not really sure where to go next. the car hasn’t even ran to blow the gasket and no evidence of such. I must have missed something, a crack or something possibly, who knows..

I decided to come in and have tea instead of looking at it any longer. Good thing we have nothing but time at the moment eh. Haha

549BB3B6-FB66-4B30-B681-7C74C16FC364.webp

cheers,
 
whats the condition of the engine itself? mines low on one cylinder but it was seized in the past and quite worn in the bores. Could be worn rings giving low readings.
 
Compression is quite a bit down on cyl 1&4 however id expect it to start with them readings no bother, ive seen c1js run when totally fucked, and new rings might break in. Ive not bothered comp testing mine, can be done after run in, mine is old pistons, new rings, new liners though as all mine were knackered.

Id bet your issue is firing order wrong, dizzy drive out 180deg, or dizzy drive miles off, did you set the dizzy drive up at tdc?

Set the tdc lead wiring back to stock, as you dont really want any more advance if running loads,of boost, swapping them round wont make a difference with this issue.

Ive also heard of a nightmare with one of these cams causing issues, backfiring out of the carb etc. My one was miles off when i checked it with a dti, might be worth binning it whilst the head is off
 
Also check the valves are sealing ok. My head was off a running car and most of the valves needed grinding.
 
The tdc wiring is back to standard I just tried it to see if there was a change.

lapping the valves in is a good shout, this thing has been sat a good while.


yes I set it up with the crank at 0 timing mark, rotor arm to the front. As per what I could find digging through Facebook.
I am using a 16v box, I wondered if the timing mark would be different but went with it.

I’ll regrind the valves tomorrow and rebuild it.
Look at ignition timing, more research into base timing settings needed I think
 
As per above, comp was never gonna be great till rings bed into bores and vice versa, poss never be perfect but that's what you accept, lump I've just built I turned it over with a plug in one pot at a time and I can hear it squeezing oil in each pot.
Non start sounds timing or firing order....I've done it all wrong before, but been too cock sure to go back and check myself, blamed everything and everyone....
 
Id bet the 0deg mark on the valver box is exactly the same. It could be possible that the cam timing is miles out, do you have a dti gauge and timing wheel to check? I needed to move my vernier about 30degrees compared to all the other cams ive fitted when i tried mine. I know one of the other lads had loads of chew with one and decided to pull it, wont idle, backfiring through the carb the lot.
 
I’m gonna put it back together and go through the ignition timing. If it’s not playing ball still then I’ll swap the cam for the standard one.
No I’ve no dti or a timing disc. Didn’t want to buy one just to check it, I will when I buy a vernier pulley.

compression is never going to be great untill rings and bores have bedded in, your right turbell, and that’s not something that crossed my mind when I saw the comp. reading

i was too prepared for it to fail 😂
 
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