The Campus Turbo 'in stock' build

[Will D93]

I ordered a couple of suitable reducer 90’ pipes for the turbo oil drain. That sorted that leak but the oil temp at the front of the sump was a bastard to seal also. And now My crank seal has started weeping a bit Jesus

Today i flushed the coolant system out and filled with type D. Sorted the weeping temp sensor like I said and had another play about with the idle settings trying to get it to run consistently.
I’ve got it pretty good I think.
I also had another go at sealing the pipe from my brake res, it’s leaking in the same place. I’ve used some epoxy glue this time in a hope that it’ll withstand the brake fluid.

ordered up some heat sleeve and loom tape to tidy up the engine bay slightly, and some sheet to make radiator cowling, CAD template lol





trying to find somewhere I like that will mot it at the moment. I have insured it, at £195 bucks for the year, which I am very happy about.

cheers

 

[DaveL485]

£195 bucks for the year, which I am very happy about.

One of the few advantages of advancing years!

 

[Brigsy]

Idle looks fine now

Regarding the oil level sensor leak, do you have a copper washer fitted? I binned my oil level sensor on the Extra sump and fitted a bung out of a campus sump.

 

[Will D93]

One of the few advantages of advancing years!

its limited mileage, but agreed value.everything declared, and no increase for non performance mods. I’m only 26!

Idle looks fine now

Regarding the oil level sensor leak, do you have a copper washer fitted? I binned my oil level sensor on the Extra sump and fitted a bung out of a campus sump.

Aye, cheers for that.

I tried all sorts, a copper washer was the last thing I tried and I thought it had worked. I might just weld it up tbh as I’m now looking at taking it off again due to other leaks I’ve not got a sensor wired up anyway.

 

[Adey]

its limited mileage, but agreed value.everything declared, and no increase for non performance mods. I’m only 26!

hes old as the hills and assumes everyone else is too

 

[binge]

Do love a tidy Campus!
When I was a teen, I had a really clean one. Wish I'd kept it really. I ended up buying an entire GTT kit, seats, bumpers, spoiler etc from a dude who had smashed his GTT up. It was like a 50 shades of red / orange kinda car! haha

I love the black bumpers on yours, and stealthy intercooler tucked behind it. Really cool motor!

 

[DaveL485]

I’m only 26!

I don't like you any more!

 

[Will D93]

I don't like you any more!

Fuck sake now I’m essentially broken, I only post in here for your approval!!

 

[davemaygtt]

Fuck sake now I’m essentially broken, I only post in here for your approval!!

That's often what happens with father figures

 

[DaveL485]

 

[Will D93]

Fucking leaky cheese.

I have now done about 70 miles running in, all good and well for the most part. Apart from the leaks! Oil leaks do my head in, I was worried about the gearbox leaking as they are all getting to that age now where the selector seal goes. But typically that’s fine it’s just the engine that won’t hold oil.

I’ve been trying to seal up a leak from the oil temp sensor bung. But its not happening and I think that actually the weld is not sealed properly as I’ve still got a weep.

the turbo oil drain is hugely improved with new silicone pipes but there's still a misting from somewhere.

so I’ve placed an eBay order for more AN fittings and line, -10 this time to make up the oil drain.

I’ll remove the sump AGAIN, remove temp bung and weld that up, and weld an AN fitting in for the oil return.

that still leaves the crank seal which to be honest Im still not sure isn’t just the sump seal at the half moon.

my heads a bit burst with it now tbh, been looking at it for weeks straight. The prospect of taking the engine/box out to do the crank seal is less than appealing.!

 

[DaveL485]

Just carry a drip tray around with you.... 97.4% of these things leak oit anyway lol

 

[Will D93]

Just carry a drip tray around with you.... 97.4% of these things leak oit anyway lol

yea I know that’s the norm. Still annoying though


I underestimated the size of the -10 fittings, I probs could have used 90’ fittings instead of 45’
But it doesn’t make any difference really.

First job on the list was the bung for the sump.
so I took that off in situ. Again
Buffed the sealer and other shit off the area with the two existing fittings in it, and low and behold it’s horrible. No wonder it was leaking



Got that cut out and a new plate put in.
welded both sides.

Buffed back the outside and a space inside to get the fitting in.


Fitting in and welder up.
looks much better




And a lick of paint


happy with how that came out so next up was clean it all thoroughly check its shape, and refit with HUNNERS of sealer. And I did. Maxed out my tube of Honda Bond.
Any further leaks are being put down to the crank seal.

next up make up the line, as I said at the top fittings were chunkier than I anticipated so it’s a bit tight behind the rad and on top of the gearbox.






I was going to make up the rad shrouds today aswell but I did my annual 4 hours of gardening and that set me back a bit.

I’ll get on to those before the next road test, may well get them made up tomorrow.

cheers

 

[j_carter]

Awesome. Your welding looks spot on! Wish you luck on the leaks but as dave said, I don't think i have seen many that don't leak. what makes it worse is the tiniest bit of oil looks like 10 litres!

 

[Will D93]

thanks. my welding has improved hugely over doing the bulk of this project.
that sump fitting took two attempts, but once the settings were right it was all good

 

[Will D93]

Wuhan spec shite.



the 45’ into the sump was too wide for the space behind the rad. Shat itself when tightened.

I ordered a replacement 90’ from a “uk seller” waited 2 weeks for it to come from I presume China. While getting fucked off waiting I ordered another 90’ from torques.

both eventually turned up along with a new thermostat from gates, apparently OE

So yesterday I set about sorting out the oil drain, in the end I swapped both the knackered fitting and the one that was still in tact on the bottom of the turbo in favour of the 90’ ones, it tidied and shortened the pipe considerably.





with that job done I started the car and let it warm up to temp and shut it off. No leaks so far.!

today I decided I would set about making up the rad cowling, I’ve had the material to do it for a while just haven’t had the enthusiasm.
So out with the templates I had made previously,



transferred to 3mm? I think, alloy.

And bent, trimmed, fettled as required to fit/fill the gaps.

It might have been 2mm actually.

a bit of rubber trim down the sides and a couple of self tapping screws in each to secure them in place.




the first one took a couple of hours to bend and trim to shape. The second side was quite quick as is usually the case with this sort of thing as it was much the same thing repeated.



jobs a good’un
Very happy with how it’s turned out and should make a good difference to cooling.

wrapped some Velcro heat sleeve round the king lead etc coming into the engine bay


I have also got the thermostat to fit and another flush through and typeD to go in.


finally I think I’m going to swap the rad switch for one I have that’s a lower temp. Setting
the one that’s in there takes ages to come in and I don’t think it’s consistent tbh.

so coolant flush, thermostat and switch is the next set of jobs to be done.

cheers

 

[DaveL485]

Nice work mate. The Torques fitting should be fine, I get a lot of stuff off them, they're pretty good.

 

[Will D93]

today i did a coolant flush again, changed the thermostat for a new one, and changed the rad switch for another that i had lying about. i think the one that was in there might have been from a diesel kangoo. might have still been knackered.
did that stuff, went to the shell for £25 worth of finest v power and went for a blast. and i was giving it some.

went well for the most part.
well, the coolant temp was good. and it didnt blow up revving out to 4.5k touching 5k at times.

got home, couple problems.

when i was out, the car cut out dead at a quiet junction. this has happened in the past but this time as id been out for longer than normal and going abit harder the starter motor was having none of it. i had to push the car to turn it around and bump star it back down the hill. LOL

the last remaining chinese AN fitting is leaking a bit of oil, and the torques 90' thats fitted is too, although im hoping that one just needs a nip up. ive ordered another torques one to replace the leaking chinese one.

AAAAAAAAAAND, my crank seal is deffo leaking.


so im going to replace that AN fitting.
im going to fit a relay to activate the starter in the hope that will improve the reliability.
and im going to have to replace that crank seal, but i really cant be arced with that.

from driving it in anger the carb top has also pushed up against the bonnet and given it a pimple.. thats annoying.

lots of annoying shit with this car today..

 

[Turbell]

It’s the shakedown/getting a car you’ve rebuilt/modified glitch free that really tests you, niggling faults or issues that won’t go away as if it’s sticking a finger up at you after all that hard work and the first time you scratch or notice some paint damage or defect .....
Sometimes you have shut the garage door on it for a week or two, look back on what you’ve achieved and reset the grey matter, other option is not to bother and cut the grass and drink coffee on a Saturday afternoon in a shopping centre.....with all the other retail zombies.

 

[davemaygtt]

I had the same problem with the carb top hitting the bonnet, was within a month of the bonnet being resprayed. Mine also happened after the starter gave out on a hot day and I had to bump start it to get it going.....
I changed the rear engine mount in case it had gone a bit soft and allowed extra movement. Got a local pdr guy out and he sorted the bonnet for £60.

Doing good, like turbell days, have a break if you need it and go again