My Renault 5 1.7 GTX Thread

[Adamthomas73]

Skirts on!
View attachment 149690

View attachment 149691

Looking good!

 

[DaveL485]

@DaveL485 another clip for you to identify These ones hold the plasic trim in place along the sides, and are an absolute pain to get out.

Whaddya think I am, your clip bitch or something?

New ** RENAULT 5 GT TURBO REAR QUARTER TRIM LARGE CHRISTMAS FITTING CLIPS X 6 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for New ** RENAULT 5 GT TURBO REAR QUARTER TRIM LARGE CHRISTMAS FITTING CLIPS X 6 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[piggz]

Whaddya think I am, your clip bitch or something?

New ** RENAULT 5 GT TURBO REAR QUARTER TRIM LARGE CHRISTMAS FITTING CLIPS X 6 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for New ** RENAULT 5 GT TURBO REAR QUARTER TRIM LARGE CHRISTMAS FITTING CLIPS X 6 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

Ha, awesome find, cheers! Now to ponder over whether its worth it....just need 2 clips, but you cant tell!!

 

[piggz]

Carpet clips arrived, so centre console back in

 

[piggz]

Question for you experts......

While changing the oil/filter, i noticed that the housing on what i believe is the oil pressure switch was damaged, and the cable doesnt actually connect. The cable on the connector has 2 purple wires, but what looks to be a single terminal on the sensor.

Now, the conundrum, the oil light on the dash appears to work fine, with this sensor disconnected. It illuminates on ignition, and goes off when the engine starts.

So, is this sensor the oil pressure switch or not? It is situated just off to the left of the oil filter (it is not the oil level sensor, which is to the right and down from the fllter).

Thanks.

 

[DaveL485]

Does your gauge do level only or level and pressure?

If both, then there are three sensors, a level sensor, a pressure switch (this changes the dash gauge function from level>Pressure when it detects oil pressure, and the pressure sender which feeds the gauge when the switch is on.

 

[piggz]

Does your gauge do level only or level and pressure?

If both, then there are three sensors, a level sensor, a pressure switch (this changes the dash gauge function from level>Pressure when it detects oil pressure, and the pressure sender which feeds the gauge when the switch is on.

Im not sure, but what youve said matches my understanding from the haynes manuals i have (there is a bit more info in the R19 manual on the f2n engine)... Looking at the oil filter, the pressure switch is to the left, the level sensor is to the lower right, and the pressure sensor is around the back somewhere and you have to look underneath (i havnt yet).

What I think is the pressure switch, is currently disconnected, and that should do the oil light on the dash .... but I dont understand how that light seems to work fine, it comes on at key turn, and goes off when the engine starts.

The level gauge (and pressure gauge if its fitted) doesnt seem to work at all. The haynes manual says to measure across it to see if there is resistance (not open circuit) and there is, so im not sure where the fault there is without tracing the wiring to the dash. there is level sensor on ebay that I might bid for.

 

[piggz]

I wonder if the light could be controlled from the pressure sensor on the back, and thats how it works (if i have one)....i think first off i need to replace the switch

 

[piggz]

Sorry, forgot to skimlink this, but thought it might be interesting to anyone else who was keeping their ICE "period correct"

Pardon our interruption...

 

[piggz]

Help needed!

Today, the GTX developed a starting problem. Seems like it might be electrical as seems like the starter motor isnt even attempting. I started the car, went to the shop, left the shop and it was dead. Eventually, it just started working, started, and i got home. Later on, it did it again, just no attempt from the starter to turn at all.

Any suggestions before i start tracing the starter motor wiring?

Electrically, everythng else seemed fine.

Cheers

 

[Norwich Nick]

What does the main engine earth look like?

Try a jump lead from the gearbox to the battery earth and see if that helps.

If not then check the battery main lead for poor contact

 

[piggz]

What does the main engine earth look like?

Try a jump lead from the gearbox to the battery earth and see if that helps.

If not then check the battery main lead for poor contact

Thanks for the suggestion, doesnt seem to have made a difference though ... will pursue checking connections though.

 

[Norwich Nick]

No problem, I had similar once and went deep diving with no luck, turned out the earth lead was toast.

how old is the battery? Might be worth getting it dropped tested as it may have become unstable

 

[piggz]

No problem, I had similar once and went deep diving with no luck, turned out the earth lead was toast.

how old is the battery? Might be worth getting it dropped tested as it may have become unstable

Its a new battery, 9mo maybe

 

[piggz]

So, i removed the starter motor, left it hanging, turned the key and it fired........i removed it, cleaned the terminals, put it back in, turned the key, and nothing!!

Must be a bad wire somewhere that got disturbed when i removed it. found one wire thats been fixed in the past and it doesnt look great, will dig more tomorrow. From what I can tell, the motor itself is earther to the car, there is a +ve going to both the battery and the alternator, and a white wire which i think gets back to the ignition. Not a great deal to test i guess. (it was the white wire that been fixed in the past)

 

[Norwich Nick]

Yup, pretty simple, the white is the exciter wire which goes live when the ignition is turned to cranking position. Earthed via the casing and direct constant from the battery.
you’ve ruled out a bad earth with the jumper cable, the battery feed is working fine, if it wasn’t the exciter wire would burn out, probably why it’s been fixed before. Looks like your fault is with the most complicated bit, hopefully it’s just a bad connection in the previous repair

 

[piggz]

Yeah, i think my plan of attack is to put it all back in, and short from the battery to white wire, probably around the repair, and confirm that works ok

 

[piggz]

Hopfully ive fixed it .... i couldnt find a great deal wrong, other than the obviously broken soldered joint in the white wire (it was holding on my 1 or 2 strands). Probably a lot of resistance, as i was getting intermittent readings from the multimeter. Re-soldered and fixed with heatshrink, not tape, and its been fine so far. As a get out of jail, for a while i will carr some wire with me as i now know how to hot wire it by connecting the battery+ to the white wire where it connects at the plug behind the passenger headlight

 

[piggz]

A bit of work to do here!

Carb has gone to get machined flat, and im going to rig something up to blow cold air over the inlet manifold similar to the official solution from renault back in the day, but running all the time instead of from a temperature sensor.

 

[Adey]

does it need much taking off?

also do you have pics of your carb fully fitted? im looking to see the linkage