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5 GT Turbo GTT getting ready for the track.

Plugs and TDC were new about 2 months ago I have no plugs to fit I think I gapped these to .6 it had been running fine at .6 though but I'm going to put new ones in anyway the AEI was a second hand unit that was tested working and all was well before this fault appered. I'm going to have an hour in the garage soon
 
Ok spent an hour in the garage swapped the plugs fires up idle is all over afr is all over I finally sort a nice 950rpm with 14.5afr runs nice at idle still getting the fault when even with 20percent throttle. Went out for a test drive now my over run pops and bangs are back I just drove steady to get some fuel, started car up after fuel looked at idle afr 10.6 hesitating when applying throttle afr is going mad up and down. So I went home and got to thinking what does the vac to aei do ? Because from what I can see it does nothing. I opened an aei I had old one. Pulled the vac part off seperate the vac operates a diaphragm that appears to do thing its just blanked at the end! Anyway I took vac line of bottom of inlet that goes to aei and boost gauge and sucked the pipe it held a good vac on my tounge. Really stuck now I may just order a new crank sensor and that will be it I will be out of money for a while anyway.
 
Rich afr could be causing your problem. What needle jet and what pressure is the malpassi reg set at? Cold weather does play feck with afrs due to carb freeze. The van generally lingers around 10 afr on idle after driving in winter due to the fmic - causing it to idle very low and occasionally want to conk out. The joys of carbs in winter
 
image.webp image.webp Many many things have been done/broke/need doing. Here's a few pictures to have a quick look at what I have been upto. These first pictures are regarding my carb trouble which btw I still have.
 
I bought this engine from a mate who had it running in his 5 not 2 days before. I started stripping it down and under the camshaft was a 2nd timing sprocket that someone had dropped and could not be areas removing so it say under the cam getting chewed up and putting metal around the system. It reg shells and crank re balance I don't have funds for this so it will be left.
 
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image.webp image.webp Ok so my gay hesitation is still with me. I got advice to remove the 11mm bolt that holds the dizzy drive in and place and turn (the few mm it allows) left and right and see if it gets rid of hesitation. We'll have done that and fully anti-clockwise it runs better still hesitating but fully right it's blowing flames out of the carb and hesitating still. I also have a few carbs that I'm building up to try yet another carb.
 
image.webp image.webp image.webp image.webp image.webp As you can see I have cleaned one up using a fine water bead blaster at work it's done a really good job but know I'm just in the process of putting together a good carb from my spares and tapping all the threads out so the screws/bolts go in nice as this carb looks like it's been stood a. Few years.
 
Well I messed with the dizzy drive last nought as far as I could turn it each way even if was a matter of mm it seemed to make no difference but while I was checking tI see if the hesitation was still there it all of a sudden started to rev better like 80 percent better I won't say it's fixed but it's either playing a cruel trick on me or it has done something to help. So I quickly tightend the bolt for dizzy and checked again and fingers crossed it's a hell of a lot better. I will road test tonight of I get chance as my dash is still not done as the centre part of the dash that holds the switches and clocks has come away from the main part of dash making it hard to fit cover and trims as the indicator stalk cannot operate because it's hitting plastic hopefully I can secure it back in place somehow. I also have to fit steering wheel.
 
Thats a fix and a half Chris.

@James5 used to make his dizzy drive adjustable so he could get the timing adjusted to suit

Suffered a similair issue many years ago, I ended up chopping the locating lugs of dizzy drive clamp section (were the 11m bolt would go) this would enable me to make minor adjustments by rotating the dizzy itself until perfect and then bolt it down with the std clamp and bolt.
 
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Well I thought it had made a difference while static but road test confirms it's still fucked Ive just tried another carb with completely different jetting and it's still exactly the same. Im fucked off with this now, the only thing I have not tried is another aei which a member on facebook group said he would post to me to try but never did.
 
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