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Twingo Adey's Twingo GT (F4R+T 2.0ltr engine swap)

I could get 42mpg mixed driving out of my R26 on the 12 mile commute to work and around 28mpg coming home lol thankfully garaged now though
Is that on the dash or calculated yourself? If you can get over 40 in a meg I should be able to get at least the same if not better with alot less weight and longer gearing.

I do need to sort a fuel leak out from the tank which I haven't been able to cure yet.
 
Indeed, once it gets grip its got some pull to it 😁

I found a site listing p2w of cars, surprising what its similar too now. I've also managed to borrow a dragy off a mate so will try and get some times from it. 0-60 won't be very impressive but mid range stuff should be ok.

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I think I'd already mentioned previously that I wanted to panel in the radiator just to maximise airflow through it and not around it. Quick bit of CAD then cut out of aluminium. Renault left a nice fixing i was able to use to hold it. Whilst the front was off I refitted the air scoop to the slam panel which grabs cold air and throws it over the radiator towards the air filter. Probably does diddly squat but every little helps 👍🏻

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I need to do this to the Kangoo at some point. Can wait until after mapping.

Interested to see coolant temps after fitting.

I think general running temp will be much the same, hopefully it will keep it lower for longer when beating on it though, or give quicker recovery times after doing so. I've not switched to a 197 thermostat yet but that's still an option. So far on the road the temps have always been acceptable, I'm just very aware its a big hot engine in a small space never designed to deal with it. I also plan to add an external oil cooler in the future which should help with heat management.
 
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Get an oil temp gauge hooked up before fitting an oil cooler for road use, i dont think you will need one.

If you have cooling issues in the future id prob look at a more efficient rad. The large tube design are a bit crap, best off with the core design with smaller tubes and more of them. If its a 172 rad theres plenty of aftermarket options of that style, direnza etc.
 
So I've been looking at ways I can limit power in lower gears. 300lbft of torque by 2500rpm, a light car and 15s is pretty savage even at light throttle. My car was mapped with open loop boost control meaning (haven't tested it yet) I should be able to close off/block the standard electronic bleed valves air bleed and run actuator pressure. Which in this car is around 200bhp. I wanted this to be switchable, so I could have high power on demand.

A quick rummage through my spares and scraps found an old Denso electronic bleed valve from my old Impreza and a spare relay. I found a nice spot in the bay to throw it in and set about wiring it up. The only part I needed to figure was the switching. As I wasn't using the cruise control switches I opted to rewire them for this so that it was easy to use. Out came the soldering iron to do some reworking of the pcb's and I ended up with the buttons working as a normal open/closed switch.

I've not driven on it yet but it all seems to work electronically. In this setup I should now be running low boost all the time unless the steering wheel switch is held. I will add a further switch that will bypass this so that I can have full power all the time. This should aid me at the traffic light gran prix, and in wet weather (y)

If this all works as planned ill get back in and tidy up all the wiring, free control of the power, I could of probably just bought a boost controller off eBay and ran it on the vent of the electronic bleed valve but where's the fun in that.



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Its actually a very small aluminium soldering vice, the pcb is very very small. Though i removed the grips it wasnt toucking any of the tracks (y)
 
Not a bad little mod that, basically same as my mac valve is set up on the Extra. Im tempted to do this to the Kangoo if traction is an issue on high boost.
 
Not a bad little mod that, basically same as my mac valve is set up on the Extra. Im tempted to do this to the Kangoo if traction is an issue on high boost.

Its made a world of difference, its actually still very spritely in low power mode. Trying to get some traffic light gran prix launches down and adding the power back in at about 4500 rpm in 2nd will still see them light up 😂 trying to find somewhere quiet to do some logs on dragy is an issue though. There are very few flat roads near me so most are coming back as unverified on it 🤦‍♂️ So far on the squirts to work the best I've gotten is 5.54 to 60mph, 13.66 quarter and highest terminal has been 106mph, not all that impressive and plenty or tire scrabble and traffic (oops) most impressed with the 60-100 times so far 5.25 seconds which is awesome for something I've built on the driveway.

To put that into context its close to things like the M2 competition and the 2015 M3 (5.1seconds), 2017 RS3 (5.3), 2018 TTRS (5.3), 2018 RS5 (5.3), 2012 Aston Martin DBS Carbon black (5.4) 2008 AMG CLK 63 Black (5.4), all come in around the same time. Things like the new Supra come in at 5.7 seconds, quite happy with that 😁
 
I think I'd already mentioned previously that I wanted to panel in the radiator just to maximise airflow through it and not around it. Quick bit of CAD then cut out of aluminium. Renault left a nice fixing i was able to use to hold it. Whilst the front was off I refitted the air scoop to the slam panel which grabs cold air and throws it over the radiator towards the air filter. Probably does diddly squat but every little helps 👍🏻

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Adey, so i removed the oil vapor recirc pipe and put a bung in it, is there any other factory air pipes i can delete? cheers
 
Though I'm still not actually sure I want to sell it, it has no real use, the money would go nicely towards the Dope and doing some trick stuff to that. So here's an advert


One off Renault Twingo GT with 2.0 Turbo engine swap. Currently on 54k miles and will climb slowly if I use it to get to work.



Here we have for sale my metallic burgundy 2009 Twingo GT with the optioned black interior rather than old lady beige, it started life as 1149cc Turbo which I originally got hold of with just over 30k on the clock 2.5 years ago. Once in my possession I couldn’t leave it stock so I tweaked and tuned it, fitted coilovers and up rated the brakes. I used it to commute, road trip, a track day every so often and generally hooned about in it. It did everything amazingly so then sold it obviously 🙄..... Covid happened and the chap I sold it too used it for a track day and not much else I think. After a few messages I was able to buy it back at the back end of 2020. I bought it back with the intention of taking it further power wise. 150bhp 150lbft in a sub 1000kg car is good fun but it wasn’t enough. So not long after Christmas I started to convert it to run F4rt 2.0Turbo engine as found in the Laguna GT, Megane 225 and the R26. This has been mated to a 5 speed diesel gearbox to keep the ratios nice with a custom CG motorsport clutch plate to hold the power. I won't go through everything that was done along the way but once built and after a visit to Chris at EFI Parts (he also tuned it when it was the 1149cc) it now produces a shave off 280bhp and 300lbft. Its quick, weighs 1000kg on the nose with the heavier engine in there and has power to weight similar to the a C63 AMG, RS6, E92 GTS and early R35 GTR’s. Its quiet to drive and not in your face and thus is deceptively quick. I've added boost control via a switch on the steering wheel as trying to put the power down in 1st and 2nd in the dry was becoming difficult. Get it to the top of 2nd and 3rd onwards with the button pressed and it will hook up and go. Its also geared for over 160mph in 5th.



I've put 1500+ fault free miles on this now and even though it is awesome I have a lot more fun building cars and following through with the ideas than I do driving them. It actually has no purpose other than it was fun to build and now I use it to commute.... So I'm putting it up for sale, pricing it has been a little difficult as this is one of a very small handful that have been built previously (The Green RS version on YouTube apparently sold for 7k). I'm going with a similar price to a Clio 172 turbo or 197 Meglio at £5995ono.



Engine

Mapped by EFI Parts 277.8bhp 300.6lbft at 17psi

F4rt engine cambelt and aux done at time of conversion so good for another 4/5 years
Big front mount intercooler
External Bosch fuel pressure regulator with return setup and Walbro 255ltr pump
Megane 225 injectors (cleaned and checked)
Powerflex purple bushed dogbone mount

Stiffened/filled engine mount and gearbox mount
Relocated battery to boot/wheel well
Big intake pipe and s2000 air filter
Miltek 3 inch Decat wrapped
Miltek 3inch front pipe
2.5 inch mid-section into clio 172 backbox (nice and subtle though made in my garage)

Chassis
AP Coilovers

280mm Clio sport disk upgrade and Peugeot calipers. Peugeot 406 master cylinder fitted for clearance to the downpipe.
15inch OZ F1’s with 2 x Michelin Pilot Sport 3’s on the front and 2 x Toyo TR1's
Clio 172 Wishbones (extra castor over the GT items)
Clio 172 Anti roll bar
Clio 172 Powerflex purple inner and outer roll bar bushes
20mm spacers and longer bolts


Bad Bits
They all have them.

Has the common lcd bleeding on the dash clocks, can only be seen in the dark where the battery light shows as very dimly lit. Wheels could do with a refurb. Few light marks around the car though would polish up well. No big dinks or dents. There is a current abs fault, pretty sure it’s the front right wheel speed sensor, has the common airbag connector issue under the pass seat same as most Twingo's and Clio’s where it intermittently brings the warning light on. There is a reoccurring DTC for the flywheel/crank sensor sync, DTC can be deleted/reprogramed with a return/posting the ecu to EFI Parts. Sometimes illuminates in 30 yards sometimes 50+ miles. Does not affect the running of the car at all. If it were me and I hadn't have gotten bored I would also be looking at getting a nice front pipe back exhaust made for it also.

Come and take a look at it, please please please don’t ask me how to do this to your own car, it’s a for sale advert. I will need some security if you want to take it for a decent test drive, its deceptively quick and catch you out very easily. You bin it you buy it. Car is Located near Gloucester and can be viewed most evenings by prior arrangement. I am going to miss it but with no real use and boredom kicking in it should go on to someone who can finish it off and abuse the crap out of it 😀 Im planning on throwing some of the money at my low and slow 1957 Renault Dauphine (y)



£5995 ono.
 
Good luck with the sale mate, its turned out pretty epic. I was hoping you would keep it a bit longer so i can have a go in it😁Agreed a lot of pleasure building stuff like this and getting over the issues.
 
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