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3 Door 5 Campus

Check the bolt spacing on the bolts that hold the wheel cylinders in, I might have some new ones here and some handbrake shoes you can have as they wont fit my 9 and the ebay sellers aren't replying to my pathetic plea's for returns

Pic of the shoes here


The bolt spacing on the wheel cyls is 36-37mm ish, the ones I need are 31ish.
 
Last bit of welding, well not last.....but last-ish........O/S bumper bracket area.

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Poke about and it had gone into outer skin of chassis rail/inner wing area ( course it had.....) chop back, let a couple of inches in on very bottom of rail clean and bilt.

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Make outer rail skin first, zincweld inner face, plug it in, seam into existing, gap to left will done when sub and spenders out of way.....cos I think it needs to go further back to make sure, pointless going this far and not being 100 %...........mate says it's like chasing a rat!

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Then pieces in on headlight panel, just little bits, then on with inner wing repair piece same as other side, right angle bumper bracket in, again just same as other side.

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Test fit wing before, during and after......

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Pulled pads out, crappy bendix on this, they were binding, make it easier to roll around garage, ( toying with putting GT Girling vented on, but I'll see) as next job is pull lump, so drained it all down, more like type gravy than type D coolant......

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Flushed block, heater and rad all separate, bonnet off, start stripping so I can pull motor up, push car back , then jack it up and drop sub out.
Strip it all and get it blasted and painted, tackle any last bits of grot, do stuff that's easy whilst it's down, clutch, master etc.
 
Pull lump this weekend, trusty old block and tackle

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Drop sub, all went well other than O/S rear mounting bolt, plenty lube back and forth, but still started turning in retainer clip, managed to get open ender on it but it still put a fight up.

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Dropped it down, it's not bad ....but it'll need some repairs to satisfy me.


Lower rear wishy bolts......no feckin chance they were coming out........dugga dugga all I wanted, cos rubber bush they just wobble wobble as you dugga dugga.......quick look make sure I had some bolts and slitted them off.

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Both drive shaft outers had play, was gonna chance them.....but I hooked a new pair for £20 each, discs are in the rust bath, they'll come up, plenty on pads, bearings and bottom ball joints are as new.
Because I have cut lower rear wishbone bolts I need to replace bushes, sorted at a tenner for pair, I did find arms complete for about 45 for two ........but every tenner or twehty quid I can save where I can counts on this project as I'm getting close to top of budget.
Calipers will refurb, but steering arms have had a battering, seized solid with damage where someone has an attempt to adjust, even with heat and doing it on the bench it's not going well, I slit one of the lock nuts off, but still track end refuses to budge, I think I may have one somewhere but two arms and two ends plus one boot is split soon adds up......I may try cutting arms to save ends, that'd halve what I have to spend..........I know I'm skining farts but there's still stuff to buy and his budget is getting tight.
I've re purposed the old kettle as another rust stripping bath for the Bilt Hamber Deox c, it works far better if it's heated, so I've put all the bolts and bits in there, bigger stuff like discs go in the electrolysis bath, sub will go to blasters.
Plenty to do now, but I'm pushing towards back together and on key mid April.
 
Steering arm/rod ends failure was annoying me.......Waf Eaton Engineering doesn't give up, so I had a fresh look at them.

Heat and diesel got one apart, other just would not have it, I'd split both arms from rack so they were more manageable in vice......but still the fecker wouldn't give in..
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I found a R11 arm to shorten in shit stock, so all I needed to do was save the rod end........slitty slitty .........

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'Ave it !

Rack sorted for feck all.......well

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R11 arm is longer......so I shortened it......but threads aren't as deep....so i need to tap down it a bit, or lose some threads off rod end, I want to tap it though as that's the right thing to do...........and fuck it I'll blow a tenner on TWO new boots........

One disc and stub out of electrolysis bath, been sat over night so they start to turn brown if you're not swift, but gets rid of the heavy shite

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Euro jolly in morning, so that' s it for a while, just had time to drop sub, ARB, and wishbones into blasters.........he always makes me chuckle, cos whatever colour he's powder coating, that's what colour he is............blue last time, head to toe, like a mucky smurf......orange this time, what his insides look like, Christ knows.
 
Bigger stuff back from blasters

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There's trouble around wishbone mounts on lower skin, I knew about that, not concerned, but was less impressed with it topside.....

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Bulging like a fat bird in Primark leggings................

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Sooner or later this would have meant disaster for this subframe, so I could't leave it, another may have been better, but I'd rather work with what I have and make it spot on.

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Always a fight to get heavier gauge spots apart, drill access was poor on face towards wishbone mounts, just couldn't get straight on centre of spot, throw some pitting in so spot is less obvious and soon you're welting at it with a chisel,
I was in two minds how to tackle this, preferred, but more involved method would be a new 1.5mm plate made in sections to tie it all in, plugged and seamed together.......but I have to reign myself in sometimes.............so I had to remember what I was trying to achieve ............rid the rot, so although existing had took a battering and was like swiss cheese, I just plugged it back on after bilt on both pieces.

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After wrestling this side , and other nowhere near as bad, different tact..........

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Cleaned up same and bilt,

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It's all ground up, today flip it over and deal with bottom .
 
Your are starting to be in danger of finishing this beastie ;)

I think deep down you enjoy finding the ever growing challenges of restoring the ikle French tart :D
 
Left shell alone. working through front end components, nearly all done.

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Top bearings were seized solid, I could see where rubber was spinning on top hat.

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Bit of scratting about......hooked one gen and a SKF.

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Bit of cross ref'ing got me some part no.s for pattern GTT front springs, found a pair for a tads over fifty, seller cancelled, said no stock and refund pending..........total of ten days my money is gone and the twazzer still lists them......
Herman the German has a pair, but I think I'll pay extra and get my spring man to make some, I know length and dia, just not sure on rate, but think he'll have it.
Struts in top picture have ludicrous 250mm S/H ebay springs on, way to short for struts but they're on just in case I wanted to get it rolling.

Other than some slaggy back discs and a Meg rear shock, this all scrap pile from Camprust...........I've come a long way.

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Been through fasteners today, found a few pre loved replacements for anything too far gone after they came out of rust bath, boring job, but now it's all ready to bolt up, so I'll flip back to finish welding on chassis legs, then get it rolling.
 
Chassis legs done, both sides, pics are either side various stages starting with how far I took then with repaired inner back up to finish in gravitex.
Iphone is not backing up to BTcloud, so I'm missing pics and CBA to work out why it's having a paddy

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Bit of a flick over in bay with some topcoat, and then start rebuild.
Nabbed a reman front N/S caliper for £13 inc post .....O/S fresh out of bath.

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Dare I say end is in sight.....?
 
I wonder what shit heap I'll take on next.....there's a couple on the horizon, who knows what will land at Waf Eaton Engineering next.


Or just relax and not bother.
 
My parents had a high top, lwb Master camper, it was a complete shed and Dad painted it in red hammerite with a roller.

Rotted like a mofo, but I always did want to swap out the N/A J-series with a 21 Turbo lump!
 
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