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3 Door 5 Campus

Cheapest R tech does come with all kit, including Reg, 10% off would make it easier to swallow......but then I'm into another gas bottle, although pure argon in the TIG means I'm good to go on stainless as well as mild steel.
I'm sniffing at other projects, so see how the pennies go.
 
Been viewing other things, wondering whether to take on a another lost cause....so 5 has not had much done over last week.

I did however start n/s footwell, usual rot starting in seams between pan and rail, didn't look bad, but over quite a large area.......

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Drilled spot's out on seat rail and cut it well back....

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No surprise what was inside, crusty but all sound, so attack it with knotted brush, treat and etchweld primer it,
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Had order some more steel, that only turned up Wednesday, made a plate to slip in as usual, weld old into new, plug into chassis,


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Got a third of way round as it was obvious welder was not a happy bunny, power lead that is crimped onto brass fitting at welder end had frayed to about half its usual amount , so that stopped play while I found a suitable eyelet and made a repair, started to get cold and dark, so towel thrown in.
Try and finish it today.
 
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I find it frightening how much rust is hiding in the bowels of the car structure, mainly because I know i'm still at the start of the same journey. You have convinced me now to get the shell dipped and stripped, protected and then painted, then basically i'm going to put 479 liters of stonechip and underseal on the bottom of it.

I'm sure Renault never expected to have the shell last thirty years, and jesus does it show!
 
I find it frightening how much rust is hiding in the bowels of the car structure, mainly because I know i'm still at the start of the same journey. You have convinced me now to get the shell dipped and stripped, protected and then painted, then basically i'm going to put 479 liters of stonechip and underseal on the bottom of it.

I'm sure Renault never expected to have the shell last thirty years, and jesus does it show!
If there's signs of bulgin, summthinks cookin'...............

It would have been easy enough when I found shite like this to pop on a patch and gob it up.....blah, blah, all solid.

Obvious by now to every man and his dog I'm a fruitcake, who enjoys pain, but if I suspect it, I chop it.
I've seen lots of 'solid' cars and the poor souls who are drawn into them.

I love old stuff, but it's just that, old and quite usually crap, if you've got good people around you, then you'll be OK, nobody or worse, bad people .....well that annoys me most.

Ill stay on the wall as far as dipping is concerned.
Nothing lasts forever.
Just do your best.
 
It only needs to last as long as I do, then we can go together in a big rusting fireball of bravado and stupidity.

Death or Glory..........I'll never die, I've been popping a splash of Bilt Hamber Hydrate in my tea.....smear my balls in cavity wax.

Couple of hours finishing floor, I really don't like welding these .....it's far too thin, at least his bit of fluff won't fall through the floor.

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Near tunnel can nasty as well, there's a reinforcing plate bonded in full length, smoky burny weldy when you get too close...
Treat it, prime it and then when I paint sill/quarter I'll brush gun slops on,........waste nothing.
Just to end my day on a high I popped rear window out as there was the mother of all scabs at the corner, I'd scraped it back and splodged some cavity wax on it in case it was a while till i got round to it..........

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OOh good ! some rot for a change.........on a nice double curvature........pull old sill out of scrap , and use a piece of that , just right shape......another day ....
 
Floor bilt and zinc primed topside and underneath, zinc'd everywhere else I had missed like inner rear quarters etc, seam seal, gravitex and paint to do after I finished rear quarter window repair.

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Chopped it out, leaving pitted lower in......getting a piece in there without causing major distortion and body prep and paint drama was a no go....so i attacked it with knotted brush and then welded into the biggest pits, ground it back, let a piece in on inner and then a piece in outer.

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Above pic is just tacked in, I welded it in fully after......but had a few days off cos had metal in my eye, I'm careful and always wear goggles but something got in.
Anyone who has experienced it will know how bad it can be, I've had sparks in twice before and It's not amusing...I'd like to say how brave I was when the Doctor was picking it out with a pin.........but I can't

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Some filler and a blast of primer, bit of stopper and a flat when it's hardened off, I'm going to blow it in with the airbrush, that's why I'm trying to keep the repair as small as possible.
Although I'm painting the sill and rear quarter I want to keep the reigns on painting too much of the car, weather is not ideal, and if i make one panel A1, then the tidy others start to look tainted, just want it to be nice, not mint.
 
Metal anywhere in the body is bad and eyes are just not funny, glad nothing more serious than serious pain & discomfort. Had a few injuries over the years and does make you a lot more H&S conscious

Epic work as always sir!
 
Great work as always . Sorry to hear about your incident. They never believe you when you say you were wearing goggles either. I have had it happen two or three times over the years . I would advise a full face mask with the wire wheels as well . Had a wire come out and piece my cheek . Hope you are ok and the great work will continue un hindered .
 
Anyone who has experienced it will know how bad it can be
3 times now requiring medical assistance. First time I didnt know what I had done and assumed it would go away....I was wrong. Has 3 shards picked out of the back of my eyelid with a hypodermic needle, blind in my left eye for 4 days afterwards. Most unpleasant.
Second time wore safety glasses and a spark bounced off my face, off the inside of the glasses and into my eye.
Third time was grot off the underside of the car, no welder or grinder involved.

Incidentally if you ever have an MRI they should ask you if you have ever had metal in your eye, if you have they have to xray you first because the MRI magnet is strong enough to rip the metal shard through your eye :o

Today I am sporting a big red patch on the back of my left wrist from using the plasma cutter without the right gloves on, the super bright light has tanned my skin to the point of sunburn!
 
Well 9! now
m%y EyES
arE bAcK
tO NOrmal
geT on



wiTh THE 555555555555










I make a joke....!
Had an afternoon at it, think man flu is on it's way, cos I couldn't be arsed to do much, aiming to gravitex sill and other plated areas this weekend, so I needed to get everything sealed up, boring messy job, but all done, flatted sill and quarter and a bit more primer on.

Found a pot noodle pot full of fasteners I've had de rusting in Bilt De-Ox stuff, so I cleaned them up and made some fresh and popped all bumper brackets and bolts in.
I've had both torsion bars soaking for a few months and I'd found some stainless threaded bar, so I thought I'd have a crack at seeing if the N/S would budge......
success!

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Two nuts locked off on the end so I could wind it in tight, nice thick washer and a another stainless nut to wind against it, got it out about 5mm shy of end , leave it for now until I know other side moves, then I've got a bit of steel tube that'll allow me to wind them out, without having to slide hammer them.
Pleased me no end, that did.

So, how many splines do you reckon I need to drop it?, or is it suck it and see?, the 14" with 165/65 are a fair bit bigger on the rolling radius than the rollerskate wheels it was on, and i don't want it fouling, nor do I want it slammed right down, think I'm answering my own question ........but a little idea would be nice.
It's not on top of list, probably wait until I've got the front end built up with the GT lowering springs I nabbed off ebay for a tenner, think they are -30mm?
 
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