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21 Turbo 21 Turbo Quadra joins Renault 5 stable!

I hope you were ok after totalling the 2wd.
I was pootling along the single lane A46 out towards the M5, turned to my left to shove my sleeping, pregnant Mrs back over in position in the reclined pax seat and in doing so must have tugged right on the steering wheel. Of course, I was looking (not at the road) and didnt notice until the drivers window exploded in my face.
I'd drifted across the centre line in the 2 seconds I wasn't looking ahead, and hit a 20-tonne recovery truck with a 7.5tonne wagon on its bed, in the side webbing between the front and back wheels. Of course, it tin-openered my poor car right down the side. A fraction of a second earlier and i'd be dog food after a head-on. A second later, and the same but with the car behind the truck.

Cost me thirty quid to fix the one broken marker light on the truck, my car was a write-off and I got SOOOO much grief off the Mrs (and rightly so).

Someone was watching over us that day. I don't believe in "God" so I like to think it was my Grandad, who had passed away the previous year, that gave fate a tiny little tweak in my favour.
05.webp

ETA- thats the car in the layby right afterwards. I drove it home like that.

Turret was folded, chassis rail gone, roof gone by the sunroof corner, b-pillar creased behind the front door, a-pillar bent.

ETA2- Every time I roll that picture out it still upsets me to this day. 9 Years ago now :'(
 
Oh, also, while I was digging about for pics I found this, courtesy of @Roland Greenwood and JPO when I did the HG for this exact same reason.

Old HG (bottom right of pic is where the oil runs through)

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_15.webp

New HG (Top left of the gasket you can see the oval sealing ring)

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_71.webp
 
My, my, Dave. Of course it upsets you to look at that photo. So close to absolute disaster and a reminder that inattention can cause accidents! I wouldn't be so hard on yourself. If I was your Mrs (and luckily I am not and I was not and I never will be), I would not have given you a hard time. I'm sure I can say that now and it's fine for you. You were upset enough and she should have been thankful that you were both ok... And given you the support you needed at the time.
My ex-Mrs. broke the electric towbar on our BMW by getting pulled out of a snow drift. I told her not to take the BMW as it would be terrible in the snow, but she didn't listen, I just waited for the inevitable phone call... "Errr... I am stuck on top of a hedge. Someone very nice came along and tried to haul me out by the towbar but I think it's broken". She told me she'd source a new towbar and pay for it and help me fix it. She managed none of the above. Then when I did it all, incl. sourcing one from German eBay, fitted it (and fixed it) and presented her with the fixed product, she didn't even say thank you! And I didn't give her a hard time about it at all!
Sorry about airing these things on a public forum, but we're all friends here!
Anyway, you guys are so kind. I've only been active on this forum a few days and I already feel part of the family! Can't wait to get stuck in to the accident repair. I'll bash out the wing and bodge the bumper together in the first instance. I wonder if I can even get the wing relatively straight with just some gentle persuasion? I'm looking forward to the new bits arriving too! I've ordered a bumper (pun intended) load of second hand body panels and a load of service items, incl. head gasket, timing belt, tensioner, water pump, head bolts, oil filter, and strut bearings.
Andrew
 
Thanks, Dave! I found it on Amazon, can you believe???
I've had a busy weekend, but I drove the car quite a bit. It's pulling slightly right but I believe that the tracking is out after the crash. I took it to be sorted, but they couldn't undo the nuts so they've had to order some new track rod ends, which is fine. I have no problems with having them replaced. Looks like some serious heat will be required to get the old ones undone. I just hope no damage is done elsewhere!
I have also started removing parts ahead of replacing them - getting ready to renew the wing, for example (although I have managed to pull the dent out quite a bit)! So.. now to a question:
* How do I remove the sill covers(!) really noddy question, but I'm going to need to because I think I need to grind off the bolt that's at the bottom of the wing. It's seized. I have removed the fixings at the bottom of the sill cover but can't see how the top is held on
Whilst looking up under the wing, I noticed that there is some damage to the inner wing, but it's not major. The inner wing is a bit crusty under there anyway - it's pretty flaky towards the top front. I'll be able to assess more when I take the wing off.
However, one thing that concerned me rather more was the strut bearing. I could see what looked like a bit of metal poking out of the top of the strut. I've tried to take some photos of it (not easy without removing the wheel):
IMAG0099.webp

IMAG0098.webp
It looks like there's a bit of metal poking out and down through the aperture for the strut. Here's a closeup with the protrusion circled:
Ummm2.webp
Is this normal? It doesn't look like it to me. Do I need to get the strut top/bearing changed immediately? I have the parts on order, should be with me end of the week but I'm unlikely to be able to get it looked at until mid/late next week.
Andrew
 
Thanks, Dave! I found it on Amazon, can you believe???
**Man finds things to buy on shopping website shocker!!!**
:)

I took it to be sorted, but they couldn't undo the nuts so they've had to order some new track rod ends, which is fine. I have no problems with having them replaced. Looks like some serious heat will be required to get the old ones undone. I just hope no damage is done elsewhere!
Cancel the order. The balljoints you have ordered will be 2.0 ones... I guarantee it, as they Turbo ones were never made non-OE and there ain't any left @ Renault. If you want to use 2.0 ones, with smaller cones, you need to buy some adapters (which I have made). If you want proper Turbo ones there is a site in France that professes to have manufactured some but are as yet unverified ( @la21t did they ever arrive?)
Secondly the track rod end works differently to most. The outer locking nut undoes as normal, but the INNER locking nut is LEFT HAND THREAD. Thats probably why you think it's seized because you're tightening it up. Once you loosen the nuts (as you're looking at it you turn them both anti-clockwise) tap the collars with a small hammer till they are loose, then turn the big hex in the centre- it will operate on the opposing threads to expand and contract the joins. DO NOT turn the balljoint itself, you can't, there's a hexagonal locking key on the track rod end that locks the rotation into the track arm.
DO NOT adjust the rear track. It's made adjustable but it works on these super-funky offset bolts- if you break one you're screwed as they're no longer available and would be £££££ to have replicated.[/QUOTE]

I have also started removing parts ahead of replacing them - getting ready to renew the wing, for example (although I have managed to pull the dent out quite a bit)!
I was stood next to your new wing on Saturday lol. @roddy21t was screwing cos you nabbed the indicator too!

So.. now to a question:
* How do I remove the sill covers(!) really noddy question, but I'm going to need to because I think I need to grind off the bolt that's at the bottom of the wing. It's seized. I have removed the fixings at the bottom of the sill cover but can't see how the top is held on
Pull all the tabs out of the holes in the bottom of the skirt/sill. Once you made sure you have them all out, hit the skirt at the back (in front of the back wheel), forwards. It should drop off.

one thing that concerned me rather more was the strut bearing.
Replace it then.
Is this normal? It doesn't look like it to me.
No...but you've been OK so far so you may as well live with it until your parts arrive.
Be careful when you change em, 1)the stored energy in those springs is phenomenal, if a clamp slips it'll really, really hurt. Also when releasing the clamps make sure the bearing and top bush stay in the right position. I have seen many where the 2 have mis-located on reassembly and it plays hell with the geometry.
 
Here's the adapter for the 2.0 track rod end

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_Track_20rod_20ends_20130819_175733_zps6eadceac.webp

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_Track_20rod_20ends_20130819_175838_zps19774591.webp

(Left) Turbo > 2.0 TRE with adapter fitted (Right)

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_Track_20rod_20ends_20130819_175828_zpsc69989bd.webp

Adapter sat in shock arm stub

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_Track_20rod_20ends_20130819_175914_zps1b14a63d.webp
 
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Here is the locking hex on the end, and the big middle bit used to pull the 2 parts towards (or push away from) each other.

05.webp
 
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Thanks, Dave! As always, you are a lifesaver (probably quite literally).

Sorry to @roddy21t for pinching your indicator! You tried Ollie? I got the headlamp from him...

I know the guy that runs mespiecesauto.com - I have bought large numbers of R5 parts from him in bulk to sell on the UK market. His parts are pretty good so I'd be surprised if his tie rod ends weren't.

Meantime, have you got some of the adaptors you could send to me please? I'd like to have them in reserve regardless. Send PM to arrange?

Thanks also for the other info - very useful. I was putting off doing any major mechanical work until the Christmas break, hence asking if the strut was potentially dangerous. I am going to entrust the work to my local garage so I won't be mucking around with a spring compressor. I will do some jobs on this car but I just need to pay others to do it (because of where I am in life right now - kind of alluded to this earlier but I have full time care of 2 kids and a full time job with travel). Your hints are most welcome and I will pass them on to my garage. They know me by name there - I'm always popping in for a chat!
Thanks,
Andrew
 
Meantime, have you got some of the adaptors you could send to me please? I'd like to have them in reserve regardless. Send PM to arrange?
**Sucks through teeth**

Best be nice to me hadn't ya ;)

...what was that? A pax ride in the T2? Why yes, yes that would indeed classify as "nice" ;) LOL
 
Hehehe! I'd be delighted to give rides in the T2. I wonder if the 21 could tow the T2 on a trailer? I'm not sure the 21 is heavy enough.... I have a Discovery 4 but it would be cool to rock up at an event in a 21 towing a 5!
 
Hehehe! I'd be delighted to give rides in the T2. I wonder if the 21 could tow the T2 on a trailer? I'm not sure the 21 is heavy enough.... I have a Discovery 4 but it would be cool to rock up at an event in a 21 towing a 5!

Yes it is mate I've towed 21's with 21's before now. Quadra is 1423kg kerb weight. Granted its a tiny bit naughty but it's certainly stable enough the Quadra is an awesome tow car.
 
I thought it was time for an update! Got my car back on Friday - new steering arms and tie rod ends. Dave's adapters for the TRE's worked a treat. The car didn't track straight when I first drove it but seems to have settled down after a few miles' worth of driving. Need to take it back for the tracking to be checked again (they'll do it FOC).

All four tyres were older than 10 years, with the oldest being 13 years old. So maybe I have a bit of an excuse for losing it and crashing! I went for new Continentals, and so far the difference is amazing. It grips better and rides better and handles better, so a definite improvement.

I have managed to fit all the panels and lights I bought - I was very short of time on Saturday morning, so I kind of just threw the panels on and the lights in. The end result is this!

IMAG0171.webp
The bumper is currently held on with a bungee but it will do until I get a better used one. I'm really happy with the way it looks although the alignment of the panels could do with a bit of tweaking. The new nose cone looks so much better than the old. I hated the fact that it had been debadged!
The wing was bent at the bottom during shipping, so it doesn't line up:
IMAG0172.webp
... but this can be sorted when the car (eventually) goes to the bodyshop. I found quite a bit of rust as I was working on the car...
Strut top, notice the crack...
IMAG0144.webp
More worryingly, it's completely rotten under the VIN plate. It seems there is a drain tube that's just been dumping all the water down inside the inner wing. I think that's a potential cause for some of the rot:
IMAG0169.webp
You can see that the VIN plate has popped off! It came off as I was bashing the inner wing into shape. It's pretty straight now but I want to replace as much of it as I can. I'm pretty sure that the crack and the rot would be an MOT failure, so I definitely need to get it sorted and will tackle it when I replace (or get replaced) the strut top bearing. Parts are on their way (from Belgium) but delivery is pretty slow!
Inner wing is all wavy at the bottom (oops) as this is where the impact was felt:
IMAG0155.webp
I have also spotted some other rust holes:
IMAG0146.webp
And some crustyness at the join of the front of the inner wing. I'm hoping to get some solid sections cut out of a good car, but may end up fabricating something:
IMAG0148_1.webp
The intercooler is a bit mashed but it's in horrible condition. Great excuse to go for a FMIC! Anyone recommend a FMIC that fits without modifying the bumper?
Might be best to fit some slimline fans to get some more space?
Here's a shot of the complete inner wing:
IMAG0162.webp

In other news, I removed the Amal valve today - there's an in-car adjustable boost controller but I've also ordered a Dawes equivalent. I've no idea how much boost it'll make right now. I only have the standard boost gauge on the dash so I'll be watching it carefully. I think the next job may be to adjust the wastegate actuator to give around standard boost and then use the boost controller to go beyond that. Can anyone translate standard boost gauge positions to PSI?
By the way, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the tyre fitter used metal valves without even asking me!
Even the bumper isn't too badly damaged. It may yet live to fight another day (post/bollard, kerb). So I will definitely not chuck it. I also returned to the scene of the accident and retrieved all the broken bits of indicator lens. So, who, knows, I may even be able to resurrect that if there's an emergency need for one!
I was beaten in a race last night by one of these:
DSCF1737edit.webp
Looking at the specs, I can see why. Definitely time for that FMIC and those other subtle mods!
Car will be going in to the garage on the 22nd for the major mechanicals. Just building a list of things to do and collecting the parts!
So far, I think it will be:
  1. Timing belt and tensioner
  2. Head gasket (oil leak), with valve stem seal replacement
  3. Strut top bearing (maybe both sides, but driver's definitely needs doing). Associated rust repairs
  4. Brake hoses (and copper grease to hopefully solve VERY squeaky brakes)
  5. Offside front wishbone (want to replace while the strut is done), might do nearside too
  6. Might do poly bushes
  7. Prop shaft bearing - yes, I found one (in France)!
  8. Maybe the gearbox (and clutch at the same time) I might just chance the second hand 'box, without getting it checked, but I don't know if that's a false economy. The whine is worrying although you get used to it after a while
  9. Diff oil
Hmmm... I think my bank balance might be a little less healthy after all that lot! I'm thinking that the major engine/box work might be best tackled all in one hit.
Thoughts? I just want it sorted so I can enjoy it! It's not really supposed to be a project car for me - more like one that I can enjoy and tinker with when I have the time/inclination...
Andrew
 
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