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5 GT Turbo 11 years later silver bullet comes home

Which battery tray option

  • Leave as is with battery tray sections

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Fully remove all spot welds and battery tray sections

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • Leave battery tray in and trim/cut out sections not required to tidy

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
  • Poll closed .
So with family visiting and leaving far later than planed the drive over to blyton to catchup with the old gang failed :(

So to try and balance the pain got some time in the garage fighting 31 years of seized......

With the help from the boys aka 500 questions about everything but enjoyed helping :)

Happy to have some progress but feck me it's putting up a fight even for the air tools

The more I remove the more work I find :D

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Yep worse than I hoped but nature of the beast. Wife did say just reshell it or sell it but I feel staying true and @Turbell the mo fo ;)

I really want to improve my welding and encourage my 8 year old to learn also....mind the 6 & 4 year old far more interested and only ones helping dad atm
 
She looks a little poorly But fixable if you desire.
Strip it right back and then decide your best option
Nostalgia can get expensive. And time consuming ,a reshell could see you behind the wheel a lot sooner . You would not hesitate if it was smashed . What ever you decide we will watch your progress. Get them young ones interested now before they reach double figures . I had arc eye when I was seven from trying to watch my old man . So get a spare mask .
 
I'm doing a midget at work we advised the customer to reshell before hand. I spent over 4 weeks welding it up and 3k of panels. Could've got a californian shell for around the same money as the panels and probably a weeks work making it right.

You'll get there with just keep at it. Here's some pics of the midget for inspiration, it's up and running now, haven't takdn any pics last fews days. IMG_20190306_093711.jpgIMG_20190604_151008.jpgIMG_20190628_095003.jpgIMG_20190503_113652.jpgIMG_20190318_150954.jpgIMG_20190312_135423.jpgIMG_20190327_105308.jpg
 
Nice work @Mark_L some proper work gone into that!

Yep plan to just keep going, got a few milestones to ocus on. One project at a time :)

I travel for work on Tue & Wed so on the road at 5am for 84mile commute each way and back home about 5ish, time with family and usual mid week chores so just trying to keep a few hours each night.....

.....hope to get some more time this weekend as got stingy eyes today lol
 
Doesn't look too bad, I would personally, repair the inner sills if it's only small areas, obviously if there's a lot of them then replace but if it's one or two small areas I'd repair them.
 
Doesn't look too bad, I would personally, repair the inner sills if it's only small areas, obviously if there's a lot of them then replace but if it's one or two small areas I'd repair them.
He's a pro................so I'd agree, depends what it looks like when outer is off, but most like it'll be just where join is onto rear quarter lower, and where JP is.
OE inner is in two parts IIRC, pattern is one piece, rear section of inner I think wouldn't be that easy to replace at it's highest point......well for what you'd gain, better to let a piece in at lower edge if needed.
It's a balancing act between time spent patching pieces in and going the whole hog and replacing sections, some people don't like weld where welds weren't....but looking at the car I think that's a tall order.
I'd be more concerned about getting the rear beam mounts checked and repaired and I don't like the look of the seat cross members, or the chassis leg/floor skin joins, letting metal in on the floors isn't easy with them being so thin.
It's all localised rot though, so if you keep the doors hung and do a bit at a time it'll all come out fine and dandy, I'm almost jealous I can't muck in.....
 
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