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5 GT Turbo 11 years later silver bullet comes home

Which battery tray option

  • Leave as is with battery tray sections

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Fully remove all spot welds and battery tray sections

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • Leave battery tray in and trim/cut out sections not required to tidy

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
  • Poll closed .
Quick blast........anyone buying reproduction jacking points, do not expect a nice fit to weld 🙄

While saves some time def plenty of tweaks needed, expect front will be far worse than rear as per drivers side

Anyway progress is progress and chanced the vapours of gas left for a couple of welds and stopped, 50L one turning up tomorrow 😉

Went against process due to no gas and started getting front ready 🤫

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Ah ok understand now 👍....yes but only because the top half is fine on this side and took the call to leave as much original metal in known good and retain more oem reference points. May live to regret it and potentially easier to replace whole outer sill and easier to work any variance across it ??? Maybe I got over excited so find some good original metal lol 😆

Think I just crave crazy butt welding mega thin French metal 🤪
 
Ah ok understand now 👍....yes but only because the top half is fine on this side and took the call to leave as much original metal in known good and retain more oem reference points. May live to regret it and potentially easier to replace whole outer sill and easier to work any variance across it ??? Maybe I got over excited so find some good original metal lol 😆

Think I just crave crazy butt welding mega thin French metal 🤪
Six of one, half a dozen of other.......best having the door on if you're doing full sill, self tap it on, check door gaps on bottom, on , off , on , off......
Cut and weld, like you're doing means sill/door gap should be right, just makes a big area not painted on inner where you'll have welded, so plenty waxy wax.
Camprust has a slight area where door corner hits inner three quarter door shut, only tiny, but annoying.
Bollox the size of coconuts, you have, butt welding that.
 
If it does not work will blame new gas bottle staring over intimidating me 🤠

Good call on inner section exposed due to welding, plan to give a decent few coats of good stuff once done....not sure ready to consider taking off again as crazy as I am....

I had not overthought difficulty level of butt welding it until you mentioned it lol.....will take my time tweak as I weld to keep it honest 🙏

Watch this space and see if I can mess it up 🙃
 
This is why I said to keep it close to the swage line of the sill. It keeps it’s shape better, but take your time. Don’t go trying to weld the whole thing in a power hour…
 
When you start welding keep moving around, don't let one area get hot or it will be all over the Parish, just small bits and keep moving, hopefully it'll not start buckling away from you.
Supposing it was inch thick plate it would not be flat after a butt weld.
 
Couple hours fun...

Finished tidying up rear mount, few extra runs of weld for luck. Then removed the rest of the front mount with grinding disc as drilling spots out too hard to locate with the rust/rot.

Cleaned up and spot weled the rest of the floor and got on with cutting out rusty floor and most of the prep....front rail looked off....so poking hole hammer action and cut out also. Had a good look and seem to be ok and good access to get some hydro80 in.

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With superson no.1 birthday very limited time free but as he was hard wired online and others bribed with roblox funds and cheeky takeaway run for them all I ran out and got a few hrs run 😀 may cost me a nice bottle of wine for my wife also 😇

Cleaned up some hydro80 in the rail and around exposed areas

Then onto some carboard cad, make said piece, prep and spot wel and onto welding into place and quick flap wheel but had to abandon finishing, next time gadget

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I bought some of those wingnut things, I didnt like how far apart they held the panels, kind of like a forced 1mm gap... I preferred the edges to butt up together with no gap, so I dont really use them.
 
Def one of those things that work for some and not others, and finding with welding there is no one way of tackling it. I find it helps with reducing/avoiding warping as when butting upto each other there is nowhere for the metal to expand and generally find welding the tin foil has more pluses than negatives woth them.

All good fun whichever option you use
 
2hrs of fiddly fun chasing a few holes where suspect metal had thinned out a bit even though had passed visual and hammer test 🤬

Seam welded rest of floor sections ready and at rear I suspected a few fun areas so while not beautiful is solid and fixed any holes 🕳 seam sealer will cover also so ignoring it 😀

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Happy another bit ticked off and solid, l must look like a possesed person with torch looking and chasing pin holes in the floor 😀 do wonder if it would have been quicker to just replace the whole floor section lol...but know this would be just another chunk of different work and like to keep as much original metal as possible. Clean up/light dress and give it some hydro80 and onto next bit 🤪

Take my hat off to people who do this for stuff for a living, so much work most people have no idea exists.....im loving it 😍

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Squeezed in a short session as no garage update coming tomorrow booooo

Some hydro80 over all recent spot welds/,welds etc, dressed a few bits, more hydro80, welded patch in chassis rail...but not before getting some more you guessed it hydro80 inside 😀

Usual pre treat inside of patch and stuck it on flap wheeled it and some more hydro80

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