It's always a compromise just how far you take it, paint systems and rust protection moved on in massive steps in the 80's, cars in the 60's and 70's were scabbing up after a couple of years, thin synthetic paint on edges combined with salty roads meant cars were getting blown in virtually from day one, earlier stuff survived better because they were made out of boiler plate!
I can fully understand dipping and such on a 60's E type etc, but on the stuff we're playing around with, if it's an area that has no seams and it's sound, doesn't peel, you're not removing it for weight reduction, then you're better off leaving it be ......you know where I'm coming from, and you're absolutely doing the right thing , in the right places in my opinion.
I don't run a successful restoration business, nor am I time served in any area of panel beating, welding or painting, purely based on my experience ( help from trusted sources ) and seeing other people's work years after it was done, but if it's rusty, crusty or flakey, it comes off, replaced or cleaned bright metal, treated , etched , sealed and cavity waxed......what happens after that is down to how the car is used and stored.