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Winter upgrades

At a first glance it looks quite tricky. The ultimate may have been to incorporate another 2 bearings into the endcase with extensions into the existing shafts, but that's complex machining, with ground finishes and would involve taking the box to bits and putting holes in it, so not a bolt on fix.
 
We had 1 degree n/s and 3/4 degrees o/s before. We wore the outer third of the tyres

Like I said it’s a starting point, we can get the temps across the whole tyre after a decent session on the test day.
Which suggests it want's more negative anyway. How stiff is the rear? Pretty solid I'm guessing, but it will still roll a bit, giving a need for increased negative. The only downside may be increased straightline instability at high speed. The toe in should help counteract that. That will be the 2 opposing handling traits, you need to find the sweet spot between them. Then you can start a thread on it and go round in circles (quite literally) for the rest of your life......
Good luck with it and for the season ahead.
 
Which suggests it want's more negative anyway. How stiff is the rear? Pretty solid I'm guessing, but it will still roll a bit, giving a need for increased negative. The only downside may be increased straightline instability at high speed. The toe in should help counteract that. That will be the 2 opposing handling traits, you need to find the sweet spot between them. Then you can start a thread on it and go round in circles (quite literally) for the rest of your life......
Good luck with it and for the season ahead.
We don’t run the car super stiff Steve.
We have the thicker ARB and torsion bars and run it 3/4 stiff in the dry.
The car is very snappy on the rear when solid, which drains the confidence.

Haha…..a thread on set up would certainly be interesting with different opinions and driving styles 👍

Thank you 🏁
 
It's always a balancing act, more camber= better corner grip = increased roll= less camber= more camber needed = less contact patch on road on straight = more twitch on turn in = more toe in to counteract, but with diminishing results.
Then it goes wet and you need to start again .......
Then there's driver preference for over/understeer before imminent disaster happens.
Well worth playing with rear settings as the more you can get the rear to shoulder some of the responsibility for keeping the car on track, the more you take off the already overworked front end, which is having to deal with all of the acceleration force, most of the braking force and steering forces, so getting the rear to help a bit, helps the overall picture. Lots of issues at one end of the car can be caused by the opposite end.
Ernest Hemingway Said "There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games"
 
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