renault 5 engine options

[gbuk]

reading the ebay post "peach" got me thinking about engine swaps for my 1.1 r5,

i am interested by the 1.4 energy,and the 1.4 energy on e6j carb set up,(what car is this carb off and is it easy to source/set up) what power and economy figures do these achieve, i am after that fine balance of both, or is a 5 turbo engine a better bet, dont fancy an f7p swap as wiring is not my forte,

i have done a straight like for like f7p swap before, and a few rover t series nasp to turbo engine swaps in the past, but never carb to injection

 

[Neal R19]

For an F7P it's dead simple because the ECU is standalone, not tied to other bits and bobs around the car, immobilisers etc etc.

So you just dump in the whole engine, loom and ECU with very limited wiring to the car loom.

 

[gbuk]

i would be tempted,but would need help on the wiring, i read a diagram on it and didnt have a clue? do you need a clio inlet manifold and exhaust downpipe,what drive shafts, hubs etc,

i sold that blue cabby complete, its going to sit in a barn with a mk2 16v golf and e30 m3, rich farmer bought it

 

[Prab]

The effort of fitting an energy in and getting some good figures out of it would probably end up costing more then an F7P. Pretty sure there was a how to f7 an R5 on here, like Neal says, its a fairly simple operation to do

Prab

 

[Chris H]

Well the thing is, age and you have to be realistic.

Any F7P is gonna need work. Its a safe bet any 16V will have been thrashed mercilessly for years with little or no maintenance. It will have been passed owner to owner with no work getting done and thats makes them fragile. Just as it does any car, but add in a relatively high output for its size and the types of people that generally drove them its a time bomb in 90% of cases.

The energy engines, again most likely poorly maintained but not abused as much. The energy engine was used up until 02/03 in clios. Obviously its not the same as the early engines (efi and different heads meaning less power). But its less likely to go bang like a 16V and anyone thats ever owned anything with an E lump will testify that they are great engines.

The other benefit its a 1.4 so same tax class, its a very light engine practically the same weight as the c type thats there.

As for the carb its a weber 32 tldm, basically an XR2 carb but with a BIGGER secondary.

The E6J its carbed has its own fuel pump on the block same as the c type wiring is simple.

The 16V is a fairly easy swap but need more work than the E6J, you need to sort out fuel lines, high pressure pump etc etc.

The Energy engine is also something different, there was one in the project report section iirc from Europe somewhere I think.

But a TRUE 20 bhp upgrade on a more modern engine that gets great economy and a nice wide powerband isn't to be totally discounted, nor the fact you can get one for peanuts.

 

[gbuk]

i am liking the sound of the energy engine,i am not after a mega quick car,just a daily with a bit of poke,

i had a mooch on ebay last night, energy engines seemed to be coded e7j ? i did notice lots in meganes, even some 1.6e,s is that worth considering?

 

[Chris H]

e7j is the spi variant. The later ones are down on power to the early ones.

The k7m is the mpi 1.6 megane engine. Much easier to do a F7P 16V conversion than try and get the 1.6 going, its only got 10 bhp more than the 1.4

 

[tob123]

f3p? f3r? i like the 8v lumps.

Nice info btw there chris.

i was looking an F3 for r5 gtx, but to be honest i have lost interest in cars, bloody things.

 

[JR]

...but to be honest i have lost interest in cars, bloody things.

quality

 

[Prab]

f3p? f3r? i like the 8v lumps.

Nice info btw there chris.

i was looking an F3 for r5 gtx, but to be honest i have lost interest in cars, bloody things.

No point going to almost the same cost to do an 8v when you could go 16v

 

[Larry]

the f3p is an amazing engine i have to say, as is the e7j, i think an e7j would be ideal for a daily driver both economy, tax and insurance wise

 

[briera2]

I'm in the process of putting the energy in my '84 11 and so far it's pretty simple (except the alternator). I chose the energy as I already had one and it meant my tax and insurance would stay the same as well as better fuel economy. I'm at the stage of wiring it all up. If you're going to go for it here's my experience so far for what it's worth. (this is for the 11 in particular but should apply to the 5 almost entirely).... Also, apologies in advance for the long post.

Engine: I'm using an E7J from my old 19. I bought a 1990 R19 for scrap value to get the carb, intake manifold, fuel pump and ignition module and related hoses etc. So now it's an E6J with an extra temp sensor and o2 sensor. I'd say it's only worth it if you find a carb'ed clio or 19 for scrap as there's lots of bits to pull.

The gearbox: The gearbox from the 11 JB101 would only line up the top half of the bolts to the engine so I had to use the JB1025 from the 19. Make sure to use the energy flywheel sensor!

The driveshafts: These are interchangeable I think as I am using one from the 11 and one from the 19.

Engine mounts: I used the two gearbox mounts from the 11 and the one engine mount from the 19 on the left side. The Clio mount is totally different and won't work.

Crank pulley: I had to change the pulley to a non-power steering one. It's single rather than double as I don't think the engine would fit with the double. It's really tight getting the alternator belt on!

Radiator: My rad from the 19 was leaking so I'm not sure if you could mount it. Anyway the rad is mounted 90 degrees different in the 11 and 19 so the hose connectors are too far to use the E7J hoses. I cut the two sets and used copper pipe to connect. No idea if this is incredibly stupid or not. Use all the hoses and expansion tank from the energy engine.

Cables: The original choke cable works fine. The accelerator cable has to come from the E6J.

Wiring: I'll get back to you on this one as I'm not finished yet and I'm about to create a post to look for some help! Anyway, there is so little wiring in a carb'ed engine it's not too tough. The sensors literally plug in except the temp sensor is two pin and at the other side of the head. I think I'm going to wire it straight to the back of the dash (solder it to the sensor). The ignition modules have totally different wiring colours and plugs so you'll have to cut and re-solder. This is where I'm stuck as I can't get spark.

Alternator: Now the R5 energy project I've seen was a LHD car so the brake booster and master cylinder were on the other side of the car. The alternator on the energy is at the back and shares some of it's space with the brake system so I've had to make mounts and move it to the front using the c-type alternator. I also had to make a pulley setup to avoid the water pump using a roller from an e36 BMW. The R5 to my knowledge uses the shorter cylinder like the 19 so maybe it won't be a problem but just a warning!!!

 

[briera2]

After more reading, it looks like the brake master cylinder won't cause you problems and you have to modify a mount. There's a post here somewhere about it. Basically, the energy is an easy swap.

 

[Gentle Ben]

Information like that is priceless ^

And top man for going to the trouble of posting it!

+1 in favour of you doing the Energy, having owned two E6J's and currently relying on a pretty neglected K7M to run the family about for the last three years I can vouch for them whole-heartedly.

 

[Chris H]

doing the wiring isn't really that hard, just adapt the 19 loom to the harness at the plug by the headlight. Thats what I do.

I'm surprised you have an issue with alt clearance.

The E6J is a pretty easy lump to even get running on the ground.

As prab said theres no point really going 8v F series when you can go 16v.

bear in mind I done u33db's 8v conversion its in the project section

 

[tob123]

bear in mind I done u33db's 8v conversion its in the project section

I really like that conversion!