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Alpine R8 GT Turbo Too?

If your adding return fitting to your current tank, make sure its 8mm i.d as per oem gtt. A smaller return sends the fuel pressure right up and causes loads of headaches on carburettor.
 
I'm starting to mount the fuel pump and regulator in the car. I'll use the new setup with the atmo motor in the car for now. I put a fuel return in the fuel filler tube. Now I'm seeing a potential problem. The fuel line from the tank is 6mm and the pump intake is 10mm. I'm using a BMW 318 pump. So will the pump work too hard to suck fuel through the small tank line? If so, are there any ways to alleviate the potential problem?
 
I don't want to modify the tank, so I'll try running a new feed line down the filler tube. I already have the return line in the filler. Thanks Brigsy.
 
I've decided to remove the stock tank ( in the rear) and add a new tank in the front (boot?). The front tank setup will have a properly sized outlet and return ports. Plus the weight transfer to the front will be nice. I plan to copy the setup Steve Swan used on PaulE's car. Just more work and $$'s.

R8TT fuel pump.webp

I'm curious abou the "push-on" hose fittings on the fuel fump and filter. Are they half of a JIC (AN) hose end? I've not seen this type of fitting before.
 
I've decided to remove the stock tank ( in the rear) and add a new tank in the front (boot?). The front tank setup will have a properly sized outlet and return ports. Plus the weight transfer to the front will be nice. I plan to copy the setup Steve Swan used on PaulE's car. Just more work and $$'s.

View attachment 213632

I'm curious abou the "push-on" hose fittings on the fuel fump and filter. Are they half of a JIC (AN) hose end? I've not seen this type of fitting before.
They are a proper Jic type fitting for use with braided rubber hose the nut slips over the hose and the rubber is pushed up the taper in the other part of the fitting, then it is tightened up and locks up. Cannot be swapped about with PTFE hose fittings, but allows push on fittings at the barb type ends.
 
Note if you use rubber hose and not the teflon sort, and the lines run anywhere inside the passenger compartment, the car will STINK of fuel inside ALL the time.
 
I would only use PTFE hose if the lines are going inside the car. correct re the smell otherwise. The pump and filter are push on type designed for rubber hose, but the tank had Jic fittings on it. This was the tidiest and most cost effective solution I came up with.
Pipes are plastic coated copper and are outside underneath in the undertray.
 
To make sure I understand the fitting, here is a photo of a -6AN hose end. The second photo is the female part of the hose end fit onto the hose and then pushed onto the fuel pump outlet barb. Is this how you did Paul's connections?

IMG_0463small.webp

IMG_0464small.webp


I'm planning to run braided hose under the car for feed and return.
 
Ah, now I see! You conveniently hid the screw clamp. :) I've never seen that type of clamp before. Thanks Steve and Dave. I coundn't build my turbo motor without your help.
 
Personally if using rubber i wouldnt run stainless braided unless in high chafe area.

You can monitor condition of the rubber without braid as modern stuff is renowned for cracking in no time.
 
Good point regarding the braided hose. I'll use coated copper or steel. Harder to fit but more resilient and cheaper too.
 
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