Alpine R8 GT Turbo Too?

[BobG]

I now have a new fuel tank and pump mounted up front. (The setup may look familiar to a few of you!)


I ran coated steel hard lines under the car to the rear. The supply and return lines are connected to a Malpassi regulator. The output of the regulator is temporarily feeding the dual Webers on the (soon to be replaced) Alpine motor. The regulator is set for 4psi and the motor runs fine with the new feed. The only problem I encounterd is that the fuel gage sender in the new tank in not compatible with my gauge. The cheapest fix was a new gauge.


Next task is to fabricate a mounting bracket for the ignition coil unit.

 

[BobG]

Oil pressure question. I just ran a test of the oil system by driving the pump with a gearless distributor thingy and an electric drill. I connected a cheap pressure gauge to the line going to the turbo. I measured roughly 50 psi with the drill at highest speed. 20W50 conventional oil at 70F. The oil pump has a new impeller set in a used body. The clearances between the impeller and body were about 0.001 in above the max spec. For reference, the Alpine motor currently in my R8 reads about 70 psi at cold idle. So, is 50 psi OK at idle and a cold motor?

Also fabbed a mounting bracket for the coil pack.

 

[Steve Swan]

C1j oil pressures usually around 50 psi hot at 3000 rpm. Idle depends on pump condition. Turbo pumps usually better than gear types they can be as low as 15 psi hot at tickover. Usually turbo pump can manage 30 ish hot tickover.

 

[BobG]

C1j oil pressures usually around 50 psi hot at 3000 rpm. Idle depends on pump condition. Turbo pumps usually better than gear types they can be as low as 15 psi hot at tickover. Usually turbo pump can manage 30 ish hot tickover.

Thanks Steve. I'm getting close to putting the turbo motor in the car for final assembly fun!

 

[Steve Swan]

Yep it's looking good...

 

[BobG]

Next step is to buy an ignition controller. I've been planning to use a microsquirt, but after some reading it looks too complicated for an old analog guy! Now I'm considering either Nodiz or Megajolt. Has anyone had experience with either on a C1J?

 

[DaveL485]

Next step is to buy an ignition controller. I've been planning to use a microsquirt, but after some reading it looks too complicated for an old analog guy! Now I'm considering either Nodiz or Megajolt. Has anyone had experience with either on a C1J?

A lot of us here use Adaptronic on the C1J, unfortunately they have just been terminated as an entity after a buyout by Haltech. However if you can pick up a used 420D ECU we can send you base maps to get it started.

Other than that I havent used either of the ones you mention, sorry!

 

[BobG]

Thanks @DaveL485. I found a couple of new 420D models on the Interweb. Unfortunately they're a little beyond my budget.

 

[BobG]

Ready to remove the old motor and install the turbo one. I used a spare radiator bulkhead to mock up the intercooler hoses. The intercooler will mount in front of the radiator.




I decided to replace the m2 r5 radiator (angled bottom) I already installed on the new motor with a m1 (Lecar) flat bottom one. And I have the motor full of new oil which has to be drained. So much for planning.

 

[Steve Swan]

Looking good. It is important with a rear Rad to keep the panel sealed, so that the only way for air to get from one side to the other is through the radiator . It's like the tinware around VW aircooled, it's important it is sealed .

 

[BobG]

So, I cleaned up the Lecar sump and tried to fit it only to find out it's not deep enough to clear the GTT oil pump! I guess I should have measured it first ... Now to refit the old angled bottom one.

 

[jochem de haas]

nice project..

Which fly wheel are you going to use with het R8 gearbox ?

 

[BobG]

I'm using a flywheel from a (US) Lecar. It might be the same size as the mk1 R5 in the UK and Europe (I'm not sure). It is smaller than the one used in the mk2 R5, R9 and R11 so it will fit inside the R10 bellhousing on my Steve Swan gearbox.

 

[BobG]

Spark plugs... Do I use the same type recommended for the R5 GTT or do I need resistor-type plugs since I have Micrsquirt idnition control? And can I use wire core plug leads or do I need supressor leads?

 

[Brigsy]

Ngk Bcr8es will work OK. Run them in mine on wasted spark, no issues.

 

[BobG]

It runs! (but no boost). I have the C3J turbo motor in the car with Microsquirt for spark control. The motor started will no major problems and idles nicely at 900rpm. But, the turbo is not producing boost. I'll show some photos first.








Now for some details. The MAP sensor reads atmo pressure (100KPa) before starting the motor. It drops to about 50KPa at idle. So the motor is generating vacuum. The turbo compressor rotor turns freely with the motor off. Accelerating to 2000 rpm the rotor is spinning but the MAP reading doesn't change and there is no flow from the compressor outlet. Oil pressure is about 60 psi with 20W-50 oil and engine cold. The wastegate stays closed. The turbo is a rebuilt T2 with new cartridge, turbo housing, and turbo rotor. The rotating section was professionally balanced. I have rebuilt several 4 cylinder motors but this is my first experience with a turbo'd motor.

So, it seems the turbo isn't turboing! The only reason for no boost that I can think of is that the shaft is not rotating freely with oil pressure. I'll disassemble the turbo tomorrow, but I'd like to know what you experienced turboheads think.

 

[Steve Swan]

It should start to boost at 2000. Can you check with a mirror at the turbo inlet, that it's spinning at tickover.

 

[BobG]

The turbo is spinning at 2000 rpm, but I don't remember if it was at idle. I've revved to 3000 and still no boost.

 

[Brigsy]

You wont see any decent load on the engine revving it, be lucky to see 2psi if you hit 6000rpm. Needs to be driven to see decent load to make any proper boost pressure.

The journal bearing t2s generally spin very slow or stop totally on 800rpm idle.

Turbo is balanced so i wouldnt personally be stripping it down, not really a diy job.

 

[BobG]

You wont see any decent load on the engine revving it, be lucky to see 2psi if you hit 6000rpm. Needs to be driven to see decent load to make any proper boost pressure.

The journal bearing t2s generally spin very slow or stop totally on 800rpm idle.

Turbo is balanced so i wouldnt personally be stripping it down, not really a diy job.

Good news! I'll take a test drive tomorrow. Thanks.