There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

5 GT Turbo My C1J Forged build

Liners have been notched, the piston skirt barely protruded past the liner,

Few pictures as we all love pictures
so back in time moment a little,

wiring pictures not many tho,
New starter wiring crimped, slightly larger charging wire
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_IMG_5424.webp
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_IMG_5422.webp

CTM built and ported my head + athena gasket turned up
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_IMG_5478.webp

i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_IMG_5482.webp

Keen on lookers will notice the turbo, inlet and carb water feeds blocked off, also made a new shorter boost pipe route for my intercooler
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_IMG_5521.webp

AND heres the pictures of the knocking noise investigation,
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_IMG_5613.webp
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_C1J_20Build_141022764fb885747b594046c2fce752c208f27e.webp
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_C1J_20Build_14089094233ef51a91b105efe2c6d065da52ed6a.webp

And the fix with chamfered edges internally and externally,
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_IMG_5636.webp
i723.photobucket.com_albums_ww235_fordy51_IMG_5638.webp

Just waiting for new liner seals, rod bolts and bearings and then it'll go back together, if it still knocks then my next post will be a forsale thread
 
Lots of dollars, but only way to get real power out of them

I had the head skimmed perfectly to 73mm with a cc of 41cc before I sent it to ctm.
Compression ratio is higher than a standard engine but I wanted it that way

But the benefits can be huge, not many have proven them yet tho, I hope to prove mine on a dyno for others to see
 
I'd be interested to see those results.

I've been thinking what I'd do when the time comes to rebuild mine and I think i'd take a similar route to yourself. All looks good mate, nice work.
 
Also something I've forgotten to mention

Rocket shafts,
So anyone that's had a c1j apart will know the studs are m7x1 thread

Now, upon investigating my knocking noise with the engine running I had the rocker cover off.

Oil is fed into the shaft via the right hand side mounting, the oil goes along the shaft and out into the rocker arms,

Now the centre bolts are fine, the nuts however,
Most have probably fitted m8 penny washers,
If your not careful and don't have the nut and washer 100% sealed then oil will spray out of the left hand side around the nut/washer upwards, loosing oil pressure in the shaft this then lack of rocker lubrication

The fix is m7 washers made to din 9021 standard,
These washers are perfect size outer, inner diameter and in thickness, I have a huge bag of anyone needs as you cannot buy these easily in small amounts cheaply.

Now add fatter m7 nuts the sealing problem is fixed and rocker arm oil pressure is back to normal.

That's something I've never really paid much attention to but after looking at my old shaft wear it makes sense

Btw the washers are NLA from Renault.
 
Got it out and bathed it

Clutch is softer than expected, but does judder if you don't throttle blip

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160829_597e70c4270e4e11c27eaa6094d85b81.webp

Then fitted the nitrous bottle and bent the syphon tube so it grabs the liquid from the corner under acceleration

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160829_70ed8c9734921a4e23729c3962cb3fd8.webp

Still need to make an Tps sensor bracket fit, wire tps into the megasquirt so I can have closed loop boost control.

Plumb the bottle in, wire in the nitrous switches,relay, mount solenoids and drill n tap the lobster for the nitrous fogger.

Going for 25bhp nitrous jets first, then switch to 50bhp if needed at pod the megasquirt lets me control what rpm, throttle etc for the nitrous to engage retard timing etc rather than just on and off
 
Too much money and if you have the standard engine management it's pointless.

Looking back, I wish I brought a 2ltr and built that with forged bits instead

But I'm in too deep now so I'll continue on

I had a problem within 5 mins of the first test drive on the road, 4500-5000rpm couple of times exhaust valve on cylinder 1 stuck in the guide.

It's now fixed and back together sort of.

While it was apart I did some testing for a nitrous, namely spark strength testing.

Found my gen 2 ford wasted spark coil pack had gone very weak on cylinders 2 n 3

So I've decided to use the coil pack scoff sells mostly as he's replied to my emails so felt he deserved some of my money.

Megasquirt has be converted to run the coil pack and now I just need to mount the coil pack somewhere neat

Also decided to cut off most of megasquirt wiring terminals in favour for double sprung gold jpt terminals as I had great results of removing noise when changing my crank sensor terminals over to them

4 wires in the bay, few lives to a new fuse box, fuel pump relay messing about to work with megasquirt
Then figure out the best tacho signal for the clocks
 
Made some Ht leads up tonight using 8mm performance silicone lead and crimped with a tool from msd I've had around for couple of years

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160921_93bd5e2e32f9b074feb9728319cc2be2.webp

Only fuel pump relay and rev counter to wires to connect, but now need it out garage to open passenger door

Oh make a new accelerator cable as the spongy black thing is sticking [emoji849]

Also if anyone has a pair of black samco top hose and degas pot pipe I'd be interested as black hides the dirt better than red
 
made a tacho driver so the Rev counter should work

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160924_e1c76d7c6fee62edd0c1f8175f05096e.webp

Not tested it out yet tho as my starter finally died and finding one with 9 teeth rather than 10 is proven obscenely difficult especially when I don't wanna muller my ttv flywheel ring gear [emoji58]
 
It's a transistor and relay coil with the relay switching mech taken out

It's to convert the megasquirt tacho 0-12v output into a high voltage "spike" output
 
Back
Top