Twingo Mingo the F4RT powered Twingo GT

[Robx1r]

It's more the drycell part that's appealing to me, I'm not weight saving, I just don't want a wet battery in the cabin,

 

[Brigsy]

It's more the drycell part that's appealing to me, I'm not weight saving, I just don't want a wet battery in the cabin,

Optima red top normal size would be my choice, Something with a large capacity 700+ cca. Them pissy little things arent suitable for road use imo, nothing worse than a battery that only has one or two cranks and its dead

 

[andybond]

Optima red top normal size would be my choice, Something with a large capacity 700+ cca. Them pissy little things arent suitable for road use imo, nothing worse than a battery that only has one or two cranks and its dead

I have had no issues with my battery at all. Sure it will drain in 2 weeks if not used but I have an isolator or I put it on conditioner. Its also 7kgs instead of 14kgs.

 

[Mark_L]

We use Powerlite batteries at work, they are very light, ps9 I think we use on the midgets/mgb's obviously race cars and they have to be isolated. Have their own charger can't use a normal charger as they are lithium. But they weigh 1.5kgs with the cage.

The 12 is a bit bigger but doesn't weigh much more..

Couldn't believe it when I first picked one up.

 

[andybond]

< adds powerlite to list of next battery >

 

[Brigsy]

I have had no issues with my battery at all. Sure it will drain in 2 weeks if not used but I have an isolator or I put it on conditioner. Its also 7kgs instead of 14kgs.

Id bet my bottom dollar that you would not notice the the difference weight wise, pointless really on a road car. Normal sized battery does not need disconnecting will not drain in that period, and you can sit there with the stereo on or door open not worrying about the battery going flat. You want reliable cranking power on a road car.

 

[andybond]

Id bet my bottom dollar that you would not notice the the difference weight wise, pointless really on a road car. Normal sized battery does not need disconnecting will not drain in that period, and you can sit there with the stereo on or door open not worrying about the battery going flat. You want reliable cranking power on a road car.

Its 7kgs in a car that weights 932kgs with a full tank. Every little helps.

I dont doubt normals will not drain in that period either but the AGM battery I got was £12 more than a fat battery. I dont have any lights on that come on when the car door opens, and the radio is shite so I dont have these 1st world problems

 

[Robx1r]

@Brigsy have you ever seen the amount of electrics in a twingo? I'm sure the thought about a hand crank and dynamo this is purely so it can pass a test, it is a toy so an isolater would happen anyway regardless of battery, but I do get your point completely,

 

[Robx1r]

I got 10 min tonight under the guise of doing the washing(our washer and dryer are in the shed)
The alternator from the twingo was just a little too tight so I pushed/pulled the threaded bushing out a bit.
Also figured out I'd need a few more an fittings for the fuel system. I should really draw it out and get them all at once

 

[Robx1r]

So did another load of washing while she was in work and the babóg asleep, drilled the firewall for the bulkhead fittings and by the tank, loosely ran feed and return, just to get an idea, I'm not happy to run it along the tunnel or under the car so passenger inner sill it is, with a healthy dose of ADHD it helps to write things down just showing what it's like inside my noggin

 

[Robx1r]

Well my planning of the fuel system has lacked a little... I'm short 9 fittings....... I did say every system on this car has cost the same or more than the car itself.

Biggish update. Megane engine and ndo box DO fit, ish. But few problems arise
1, it's that tight it's engine out for an aux belt.
2, things are a bit out of line for the driveshafts.
3, rear engine mount need to be over a foot long.
4, little fingers make shite engine mounts.
5, there is more than one jr5 box, alot more.
6, crank trigger is in a different position with the ndo.

 

[Robx1r]

Fuel system shaping up

 

[Adey]

looking good man

 

[Robx1r]

Thank you, just need to get the last bits

 

[DaveL485]

Thats super tight on the aux belt but with a lower use second car, even if its engine out thats what - every 5 years or so, if not more? You wont hit the mileage so the belt service can be extended out.

 

[Robx1r]

I'm going to ditch the ndo, the benifits don't line up with the ball ache

 

[Adey]

Working fine for me so far though if I start going through jr5's ill look into an NDO again. Realistically I roughed out it would cost an extra 1.3-1.5k to swap to an NDO when including single mass flywheel, custom shafts and mounts mounts.

 

[Robx1r]

Yeah, I can't see it being worth the money, I'll look into diff options on the jr5 and see how we go

 

[Adey]

There's a diff available for the jr5 fitted in the rs133 so should fit fine

 

[Robx1r]

Ohhhhhhhhb