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Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)

Coming on really well.

I have the white band in mine, I had them done with a 6.5k red line.

I think it would look great on a set of 17" steels. Really sleeper.
Cheers mate, cant wait to see what it goes like once mapped. Id love steels but finding a strong set capable of track use is another thing. I seen a pic of a 17” steel that had split at the centre with track use.

@Big Steve - Raider the white dials are also available in the gordini. Not that common but looks like most of the late 200’s got them.

@Chris Smith i like the normal handbrake on the citan. The rest of the dash though🤮
 
Updates

Ive been working on my garden ready for turfing this week which has been a ballache so only managed a day on the Kangoo in the last 2 weeks. On countdown to mapping at Efi >2 weeks Sat so best pull me finger out.

Cleaned up a spare megane sender and fitted a deatschworks dw65c pump and modified 5 bar fuel pressure regulator. The 5 bar reg is needed so i can use the rising rate regulator on the 250 fuel rail.

Sender cleaned up and pump is drop in, no mods required.
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No pics of dropping tank as ballache but done and dusted.

Ive seen a couple of reports of issues/ megane upc burning out with the aftermarket uprated pumps fitted, not sure if isolated or not though. The old walbro 255 had not melted it with stock 3.5bar regulator, but moving up to 5 bar reg and the amp draw is larger so may cause issues.

Was not taking any chances so hardwired the fuel pump to take the load off the upc. The original meg fuel pump wiring looks to be 14/16 gauge which is borderline at best and this is diesel loom so god knows what its like on the interior harness.

Ran a fat 10 gauge live wire fused from battery, to a 40amp relay that fits nicely on oem interior fuse box, and straight to the pump connector. Should be a decent voltage at the pump now and no worries about the upc burning out.

No pics of fitting but it was a solid 3 hours of graft running the cable in nicely, had to take the arch liner off the nearside rear to get to pump wiring, ply lining off the inside, strip glovebox out, battery and tray out. Right carry ono_O

Whilst dash was apart i took the silver heater control surround off and painted it with textured bed liner paint. I was not a fan of the silver and it had to go, also done the rings around the outer air vents. 100% improvement all done black.
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Will give the boost circuit a leak test next weekend but in as it stands, it should be good to be mapped.

Thanks for reading!
 
Updates

Ive been working on my garden ready for turfing this week which has been a ballache so only managed a day on the Kangoo in the last 2 weeks. On countdown to mapping at Efi >2 weeks Sat so best pull me finger out.

Cleaned up a spare megane sender and fitted a deatschworks dw65c pump and modified 5 bar fuel pressure regulator. The 5 bar reg is needed so i can use the rising rate regulator on the 250 fuel rail.

Sender cleaned up and pump is drop in, no mods required.
20210418_134548.jpg

20210418_135521.jpg


No pics of dropping tank as ballache but done and dusted.

Ive seen a couple of reports of issues/ megane upc burning out with the aftermarket uprated pumps fitted, not sure if isolated or not though. The old walbro 255 had not melted it with stock 3.5bar regulator, but moving up to 5 bar reg and the amp draw is larger so may cause issues.

Was not taking any chances so hardwired the fuel pump to take the load off the upc. The original meg fuel pump wiring looks to be 14/16 gauge which is borderline at best and this is diesel loom so god knows what its like on the interior harness.

Ran a fat 10 gauge live wire fused from battery, to a 40amp relay that fits nicely on oem interior fuse box, and straight to the pump connector. Should be a decent voltage at the pump now and no worries about the upc burning out.

No pics of fitting but it was a solid 3 hours of graft running the cable in nicely, had to take the arch liner off the nearside rear to get to pump wiring, ply lining off the inside, strip glovebox out, battery and tray out. Right carry ono_O

Whilst dash was apart i took the silver heater control surround off and painted it with textured bed liner paint. I was not a fan of the silver and it had to go, also done the rings around the outer air vents. 100% improvement all done black.
20210517_194010.jpg

20210517_194044.jpg


Will give the boost circuit a leak test next weekend but in as it stands, it should be good to be mapped.

Thanks for reading!
Want to do this too, have you got a link to the reg. Tuur, said I can use a std clio pump set up to put the reg in.

Need to get one..

Is the 255 not big enough?
 
Any close ups of the finish of the bed liner paint? Is there anything that stuff can't do!
Will get some close up pics. Bedliner is class though covers a load of sins, hardly any prep required.
looking great in there now (y)
Cheers mate. Roll on mapping
Want to do this too, have you got a link to the reg. Tuur, said I can use a std clio pump set up to put the reg in.

Need to get one..

Is the 255 not big enough?
I bought the reg off a lad machined to suit the megane sender, i believe its just a generic bosch style 5 bar though nothing too flash.

Id go with base spec mk3 clio sender and the reg should go in with no mods, nice and easy.

Walbro 255 is man enough for the job, i just changed it as was unsure if it was a walbro or not that was actually fitted, and didnt want to be stuck without a pump last minute so ordered a dw65c.

Ive pulled the old fuel sender to bits and it is indeed a genuine walbro fitted but to my horror the gauze filter was covered in shit. Ended up draining/flushing the tank out.

Dw65c fits better in the meg sender compared to the walbro and is loads quieter than the walbro when running, and its running 10x better now its got a nice clean sender. Idles great now no popping.
 
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My walbro is pretty loud, more so when the tanks under half full, if it becomes annoying I'll have to look at the same pump you have.
Dw65c is not much louder than oem to be fair mate. My walbro was loud, not bosch 044 loud though. I think it was noisy due to the amount of crap on the filter.
 
Will get some close up pics. Bedliner is class though covers a load of sins, hardly any prep required.

Cheers mate. Roll on mapping

I bought the reg off a lad machined to suit the megane sender, i believe its just a generic bosch style 5 bar though nothing too flash.

Id go with base spec mk3 clio sender and the reg should go in with no mods, nice and easy.

Walbro 255 is man enough for the job, i just changed it as was unsure if it was a walbro or not that was actually fitted, and didnt want to be stuck without a pump last minute so ordered a dw65c.

Ive pulled the old fuel sender to bits and it is indeed a genuine walbro fitted but to my horror the gauze filter was covered in shit. Ended up draining/flushing the tank out.

Dw65c fits better in the meg sender compared to the walbro and is loads quieter than the walbro when running, and its running 10x better now its got a nice clean sender. Idles great now no popping.
Any links, I'll probably buy the wrong one.

I keep finding the ones that go in the 250 rail?
 
Updates

More prep for mapping today, boost circuit leak testing. Essential step as i want all the boost;)

Whipped front end off and bunged the pipes at the turbo/throttle body connections. Stuck 1.2bar in and it held it straight away, no leaks. I was expecting to have to nip a clip up but no need.
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Next step was to stick the throttle body hose back on and pressure it up from the turbo to check the inlet for leaks.
20210522_152737.jpg


Again no issues which is good. Leaks a little bit of pressure past the valves that are open as expected but throttle body adaptor is ok.

Stuck a fat 35mm2 earth cable on the engine block to inner wing whilst there as belt and braces.

Needed a catch tank too as the rocker breather was just open to atmosphere. Room is very tight and the only real space left is down behind the bumper. Temp 2ltr pop bottle hooked up with holes in the top. This is a bit of a homage to my Extra van that ran a robinsons bottle catch tank for several years before fitting an alloy tank last year. Its not msa spec but it will do;)
20210522_164555.jpg

"Always outnumbered, never outgunned"20210522_165010.webp

All back together and road tested and running great.
20210522_184151.jpg


Also fitted a 3mm rubber penny mat to the rear to stop stuff sliding all over on the ply. Shez cut it to fit and done a great job.
20210522_174604.jpg


2kg powder fire extinguisher fitted which hopefully will never need to be used.

Roll on mapping next Sat, cant wait to see how it performs.

Thanks for reading!!
 
Last few jobs done

Stainless air filter bracket to stop it resting on the brake fluid reservior.

20210528_123141.jpg

Purge valve emissions s**t delete with a resistor to keep the ecu happy and no lights on. Had the valve plugged in and no pipes so had to go.
20210528_121449.jpg

Last job was a good clean up
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Full tank of juice ready for tomorrows run to Efi
20210528_161134.jpg


Any bets/predictions on hp? Bottom figure should be 300hp, top end would be absolute max of 380hp really flogging it. Im going for reliable take it all day power.
 
Booked in for 1pm, nice uneventful drive down hopefully🤞


Ill be buzzing if it makes 360/360. If the engine is a little tired and only makes low 300s ill be happy with that. Beggars cant be choosers😆

Interestingly i found a build thread for the r26 i stripped for the engine.



Engine has done around 20k from my reckoning up. Ive added 250 head, 172 cams & 20t hybrid. High pressure 250 fuel system, decent cooler. I believe the limiting factors at the moment will be the turbo and the clutch
 
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