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How (not) to make your Dauphine Handle

Blow Your Mind Wow GIF by Product Hunt
 
Got the rear of the car up on ramps coz it needs to be at ride height and did some measuring, now just got to make the chassis hangers from the rear crossmember to the bar mounts and finish off the mounts that hold the driving links to the back axles
The following pics will give the idea

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IMG_20210227_145541196.webp

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Should have it Boshed together this week .
 
It also occurs when I was under here earlier. I tried to make the Dauph without the errors that crept into the 8, by trying to keep some of the original bits. The 8's main issues were poor brake feel, because I kept the original style master cylinder and pedals, so the Dauph got a bias pedalbox which is better, but definitely not easier. The clutch was a constant source of annoyance until I managed to get a hold of a genuine Sachs R5 group 2 clutch which was excellent, but no longer available. I decide to go with an AP racing 71/4" race clutch as it is fully rebuild-able but would need hydro actuation. No problem we have a pedalbox, however making a slave to fit in the confines of an R10 bellhousing was a right laugh. I ended up using the good old Saab 900 release bearing ( which is what AP racing use) and piston in a custom cylinder.The next car I build will be something I don't have to end up making everything for.

BELLHOUSING CLUTCH SLAVE (3).jpg



BELLHOUSING CLUTCH SLAVE.jpg
BELLHOUSING CLUTCH SLAVE (2).jpg

and No I don't want to do it again.
 
It also occurs when I was under here earlier. I tried to make the Dauph without the errors that crept into the 8, by trying to keep some of the original bits. The 8's main issues were poor brake feel, because I kept the original style master cylinder and pedals, so the Dauph got a bias pedalbox which is better, but definitely not easier. The clutch was a constant source of annoyance until I managed to get a hold of a genuine Sachs R5 group 2 clutch which was excellent, but no longer available. I decide to go with an AP racing 71/4" race clutch as it is fully rebuild-able but would need hydro actuation. No problem we have a pedalbox, however making a slave to fit in the confines of an R10 bellhousing was a right laugh. I ended up using the good old Saab 900 release bearing ( which is what AP racing use) and piston in a custom cylinder.The next car I build will be something I don't have to end up making everything for.

View attachment 153849



View attachment 153850
View attachment 153851

and No I don't want to do it again.
It Looks spot on.

We do something like this for the midgets but it has to sit on legs and a plate which makes it an absolute pain to get the right throw with keeping it square. Just the way it's been designed I hate fitting them.
 
@DaveL485 It is a Saab 900/9000 release bearing as far as I can remember they are all the same. Gettable anywhere and work with AP race clutches, I think they were the only car with a concentric hydro slave cyl from the 1970's. Also all metal construction, no plastic shite, maybe they are now. I used the bearing and piston, but the housing was chopped out of 3" bar. When I started an old friend who was Model Engineers Workshop Editor at the time said 'why not make it from scratch?' Too much pissing about for me I thought, so I started to cut down the Saab cylinder. It was nearly there, and I was trimming 5 thou off at a time and trying it for fit and clearance, it was nearly there! Back into the chuck for the last skim, true it up, and the phone rings, its my mate who has just had to get his dog for the last 15 years put down. Commiserate with said pal for half an hour, and where were we? Oh! that's right, last cut. Yes I had trued it up , BUT not tightened the chuck, so applied the cutter and it caught, collapsed and came pinging out at me, and took a chunk out of the wall behind me! Guess what, start with a bit of bar and make a housing, would have been bloody quicker doing that in the first place.
Happy Motoring.
 
Normal service has been resumed, 3 steps forward and 2 steps back. After a great start it began to fight me, so I've had this bar in and out more times than @Mark_L has with the Turner rear axle. However it is on and working, so now need to remove it one more time to finish the welding and painting, Hooray.IMG_20210304_193201406.webp

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Happy motoring.
 
Any Finally......................
Put it together for the last time, Yipee! That floor is bloody cold, wearing 2 sweatshirts seems to be the antidote. I have added some pictures to hopefully show the effect.

Finished views

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You can see the gearbox fairies have made a delivery in the background anybody want to upgrade a 4 speed Lotus Europa???
Next up is a pic showing the car being jacked up on 1 side this is the point the rear tyre leaves the ground check the gap between the top of the tyre and the wheelarch. The front wheel is 2 inches off the ground at this point

IMG_20210305_193114188.jpg

To be honest if I had it this cranked over on Tarmac I would probably be repenting my sins more than anything else

So let it back down settle it down and then jack it up at centre rear this next picture is at the point the wheel can be turned as it is just off the ground

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You can see about an inch less droop and that its about it really. It probably seems a bit underwhelming to you all, but in a suspension design where every mm of vertical movement is a prisoner a 25mm gain is a big one. The point is if you used short checkstraps on the axles (and people do) it works fine under braking, but does nothing to help squat when accelerating, and when cornering the short straps lift the inside wheel off the ground and around you go (ask me how I know) very violently.
It is time to get it on the road and snag it all. Then off to a tracknight to see how it feels under duress
More drivel to follow
Happy Motoring
 
It’s not drivel! It’s entertaining and a great learning resource for mere mortals like myself!
The floor did look bloody cold on those images
 
As always, amazing work, no bullshit, no faff.
What else have you got going under there?
I spot a rose jointed link off the block, is that to rear cross member?
I did same is it gonna make mega vibes?
 
The block is mounted to a custom cradle in the original place there are another 2 reaction rods going from the block to the bottom of the cradle to triangulate it all which have rod ends for adjusting. This whole shebang is rubber bushed with word cup mounts into the chassis. No vibes there,but plenty from everywhere else
 
IT'S ON THE ROAD ! Went out for a short drive last evening about 12 miles and no disasters, so that's good. No.1 son following in his Logan with some tools and a rope, which were not needed. I have been having problems with carburetion which was mainly down to a faulty pump bleed jet, so last week saw a trip down to my mate's Garage to raid his jet box and get the parts I wanted. This issue is compounded by the fact I have fairly cold NGK 7's plugs in it which are OK for competition, but too cool for the road and are struggling to get to self cleaning temp. A quick plug cut on return last night is showing a bit dark, but not too bad, just didn't thrash it enough. It drives well, there is just a hint of a pull to the left and it is twitchy around centre point but is sweet through the turns and the brakes are powerful and progressive, a good hard push locking both fronts at the legal maximum no problem, meaning you get the best by progressively loading them up, just how I like it. It is sitting at a mil of toe in which I am going to increase to two to loose the pull and hopefully blunt the twitch, I will need to look at tyre pressures as well as this may have a bearing on it. I'm running 26lb front and 28lb rear which should not be a million miles away. Tonights job will be torque the head and set the tappets. Junior was unaware that you can get a three quarter ton go-kart, but he is learning...
There is also an odd thing I will throw out there. The rear lights pulse on the road, a slow and deliberate dull /bright not engine or road speed linked and it is not much, but it is there, I will need to try to see if the front lights do it too. Anyone with any suggestions please let me know. Its like the voltage is wandering a volt or 2. never seen anything like this before, not like the usual thing cars do at idle this has a steady rhythm. the lights are all stable at idle
Happy Motoring
 
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