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How (not) to make your Dauphine Handle
- Thread starter Steve Swan
- Start date
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Got the rear of the car up on ramps coz it needs to be at ride height and did some measuring, now just got to make the chassis hangers from the rear crossmember to the bar mounts and finish off the mounts that hold the driving links to the back axles
The following pics will give the idea
Should have it Boshed together this week .
The following pics will give the idea
Should have it Boshed together this week .
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
It also occurs when I was under here earlier. I tried to make the Dauph without the errors that crept into the 8, by trying to keep some of the original bits. The 8's main issues were poor brake feel, because I kept the original style master cylinder and pedals, so the Dauph got a bias pedalbox which is better, but definitely not easier. The clutch was a constant source of annoyance until I managed to get a hold of a genuine Sachs R5 group 2 clutch which was excellent, but no longer available. I decide to go with an AP racing 71/4" race clutch as it is fully rebuild-able but would need hydro actuation. No problem we have a pedalbox, however making a slave to fit in the confines of an R10 bellhousing was a right laugh. I ended up using the good old Saab 900 release bearing ( which is what AP racing use) and piston in a custom cylinder.The next car I build will be something I don't have to end up making everything for.
and No I don't want to do it again.
and No I don't want to do it again.
Mark_L
Well-Known Member
It Looks spot on.
We do something like this for the midgets but it has to sit on legs and a plate which makes it an absolute pain to get the right throw with keeping it square. Just the way it's been designed I hate fitting them.
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
@DaveL485 It is a Saab 900/9000 release bearing as far as I can remember they are all the same. Gettable anywhere and work with AP race clutches, I think they were the only car with a concentric hydro slave cyl from the 1970's. Also all metal construction, no plastic shite, maybe they are now. I used the bearing and piston, but the housing was chopped out of 3" bar. When I started an old friend who was Model Engineers Workshop Editor at the time said 'why not make it from scratch?' Too much pissing about for me I thought, so I started to cut down the Saab cylinder. It was nearly there, and I was trimming 5 thou off at a time and trying it for fit and clearance, it was nearly there! Back into the chuck for the last skim, true it up, and the phone rings, its my mate who has just had to get his dog for the last 15 years put down. Commiserate with said pal for half an hour, and where were we? Oh! that's right, last cut. Yes I had trued it up , BUT not tightened the chuck, so applied the cutter and it caught, collapsed and came pinging out at me, and took a chunk out of the wall behind me! Guess what, start with a bit of bar and make a housing, would have been bloody quicker doing that in the first place.
Happy Motoring.
Happy Motoring.
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Best use a 14mm Master for actuation if your pedal ratio is less than 10:1
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Making up the chassis mounts for the Bar out of some thinwall box and other scraps lying about. Tomorrows job will be to finish them off
Time it's painted and under the car they will look great!
Time it's painted and under the car they will look great!
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Normal service has been resumed, 3 steps forward and 2 steps back. After a great start it began to fight me, so I've had this bar in and out more times than @Mark_L has with the Turner rear axle. However it is on and working, so now need to remove it one more time to finish the welding and painting, Hooray.
Happy motoring.
Happy motoring.
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Looks great. Top quality job. Exhaust inside? Dual purpose? HeaterLooks good Steve.
I Got the Axle all in today on the Turner, just the brake line to do and I'm waiting on some new bushes for the shocks. But no more removing the Axle for me. Made a new Panhard rod for it too.
View attachment 153963View attachment 153966View attachment 153964View attachment 153965
Next up finish running the Exhaust inside the car..
Mark_L
Well-Known Member
Looks great. Top quality job. Exhaust inside? Dual purpose? Heater
Just ground clearance, running yokohama AO50's which are quite low when the chassis is 3" tube and everything is mounted above it.
He may need Aircon to go with it. Going to get warm in there..
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Any Finally......................
Put it together for the last time, Yipee! That floor is bloody cold, wearing 2 sweatshirts seems to be the antidote. I have added some pictures to hopefully show the effect.
Finished views
You can see the gearbox fairies have made a delivery in the background anybody want to upgrade a 4 speed Lotus Europa???
Next up is a pic showing the car being jacked up on 1 side this is the point the rear tyre leaves the ground check the gap between the top of the tyre and the wheelarch. The front wheel is 2 inches off the ground at this point
To be honest if I had it this cranked over on Tarmac I would probably be repenting my sins more than anything else
So let it back down settle it down and then jack it up at centre rear this next picture is at the point the wheel can be turned as it is just off the ground
You can see about an inch less droop and that its about it really. It probably seems a bit underwhelming to you all, but in a suspension design where every mm of vertical movement is a prisoner a 25mm gain is a big one. The point is if you used short checkstraps on the axles (and people do) it works fine under braking, but does nothing to help squat when accelerating, and when cornering the short straps lift the inside wheel off the ground and around you go (ask me how I know) very violently.
It is time to get it on the road and snag it all. Then off to a tracknight to see how it feels under duress
More drivel to follow
Happy Motoring
Put it together for the last time, Yipee! That floor is bloody cold, wearing 2 sweatshirts seems to be the antidote. I have added some pictures to hopefully show the effect.
Finished views
You can see the gearbox fairies have made a delivery in the background anybody want to upgrade a 4 speed Lotus Europa???
Next up is a pic showing the car being jacked up on 1 side this is the point the rear tyre leaves the ground check the gap between the top of the tyre and the wheelarch. The front wheel is 2 inches off the ground at this point
To be honest if I had it this cranked over on Tarmac I would probably be repenting my sins more than anything else
So let it back down settle it down and then jack it up at centre rear this next picture is at the point the wheel can be turned as it is just off the ground
You can see about an inch less droop and that its about it really. It probably seems a bit underwhelming to you all, but in a suspension design where every mm of vertical movement is a prisoner a 25mm gain is a big one. The point is if you used short checkstraps on the axles (and people do) it works fine under braking, but does nothing to help squat when accelerating, and when cornering the short straps lift the inside wheel off the ground and around you go (ask me how I know) very violently.
It is time to get it on the road and snag it all. Then off to a tracknight to see how it feels under duress
More drivel to follow
Happy Motoring
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
The block is mounted to a custom cradle in the original place there are another 2 reaction rods going from the block to the bottom of the cradle to triangulate it all which have rod ends for adjusting. This whole shebang is rubber bushed with word cup mounts into the chassis. No vibes there,but plenty from everywhere else
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
IT'S ON THE ROAD ! Went out for a short drive last evening about 12 miles and no disasters, so that's good. No.1 son following in his Logan with some tools and a rope, which were not needed. I have been having problems with carburetion which was mainly down to a faulty pump bleed jet, so last week saw a trip down to my mate's Garage to raid his jet box and get the parts I wanted. This issue is compounded by the fact I have fairly cold NGK 7's plugs in it which are OK for competition, but too cool for the road and are struggling to get to self cleaning temp. A quick plug cut on return last night is showing a bit dark, but not too bad, just didn't thrash it enough. It drives well, there is just a hint of a pull to the left and it is twitchy around centre point but is sweet through the turns and the brakes are powerful and progressive, a good hard push locking both fronts at the legal maximum no problem, meaning you get the best by progressively loading them up, just how I like it. It is sitting at a mil of toe in which I am going to increase to two to loose the pull and hopefully blunt the twitch, I will need to look at tyre pressures as well as this may have a bearing on it. I'm running 26lb front and 28lb rear which should not be a million miles away. Tonights job will be torque the head and set the tappets. Junior was unaware that you can get a three quarter ton go-kart, but he is learning...
There is also an odd thing I will throw out there. The rear lights pulse on the road, a slow and deliberate dull /bright not engine or road speed linked and it is not much, but it is there, I will need to try to see if the front lights do it too. Anyone with any suggestions please let me know. Its like the voltage is wandering a volt or 2. never seen anything like this before, not like the usual thing cars do at idle this has a steady rhythm. the lights are all stable at idle
Happy Motoring
There is also an odd thing I will throw out there. The rear lights pulse on the road, a slow and deliberate dull /bright not engine or road speed linked and it is not much, but it is there, I will need to try to see if the front lights do it too. Anyone with any suggestions please let me know. Its like the voltage is wandering a volt or 2. never seen anything like this before, not like the usual thing cars do at idle this has a steady rhythm. the lights are all stable at idle
Happy Motoring
