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21 Turbo G788 WUD

I noticed a drop of coolant coming from the weep hole in the water pump. Great! Should have stayed away from Dolz.
Common when the seals go. Do you want me tell you how mush of a shithead of a job it is now, or later?

Lets go for now :)

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Only 2 of those are studs btw, the rest are snapped bolts. Stupid goddamn things.

And make sure you get the water pump with the fitting out the top for the turbo water feed. A lot of the listed ones now dont have that. It's an M7 x 1.0 bolt, and tap size you'll need.

The Alt belt ive not had any issues with a Gates (6220MC) or Dayco 10 x 1000, the OE belt was 994mm I think, 7701349594. Make sure you have the right tensioner setup on the alternator and its not held at a funny angle or anything. Check the top bolt is tight too. The power steering belt is also the same width but a 750 or 770mm.
 
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Mate, I know.... my old one ended up getting pretty beaten up in the removal process. This is what's so annoying, I only did this job about a year ago. Since getting the car on the road, the new one's started to leak.

I'll just stick the new belt on for now, and keep an eye on the weep hole. Hopefully it either won't get worse, or seal itself (wishful thinking). But i'll probably end up having to do it sooner rather than later knowing my luck with this car!

At least with doing it not that long ago, the new M7 bolts I put in should come out reasonably.
 
Right, Well Valeo water pump fitted and bled and two new Gates 11.9mm belts fitted which seem to fit the pulleys much better than the 10mm ones I had. Timing belt cover needed a bit of fettling to get over the early style water pump. Nothing my angle grinder couldn't take care of.

New problem... Thought it was becoming more and more lazy to start... alternator is not putting anything out any more! Great.

What alternator do I need? I read about some people fitting a 90 amp one.. Do I need this?

When will the problems end!?
 
Lol, I was hoping that i'd be getting fewer issues now and not having to revisit jobs that i'd already done once!

Anyway, old alternator out. It was a 90A unit, a Valeo refurbed by Delco Remy. Looks like it's one that's meant for a 1.9 diesel from the part number. It was intermittently putting out upto about 13.2 volts, but mostly nothing. The rectifier pack is knackered, all burned out. Ordered a new rectifier to get it going as a spare.

The 'new' alternator is also a refurb, from Mister Auto, a Cevam 105A one. Don't know what make originally, just has a star logo cast into it. Came with a build sheet saying it puts out 126A, so not too bad. Looks reasonable quality. What a pain to get it installed. Would definitely be easier if i'd taken the radiator out, but did not want to mess about with draining/refilling/bleeding again. Car seems much happier now.

Also pulled out the cluster to change all the burned out lamps.
 
Would definitely be easier if i'd taken the radiator out
Which way was the bolt in? Factory it went in from the front, but I always put them back from the rear so it doesnt need the rad moving forward to remove it. You can get a 3/8 drive ratchet in from the top to undo the nut if its on the front too.
Bit late to mention that I suppose, sorry! :D
 
I was lucky, the bolt was in from the back. Used a 3/8 ratchet like you said from the top initially, but then couldn't hold the square head on the bolt, so did it from underneath. Hardest bit was getting the bolt back through the alternator and bracket without actually being able to see if it was lined up. Got there in the end though.
 
I was lucky, the bolt was in from the back. Used a 3/8 ratchet like you said from the top initially, but then couldn't hold the square head on the bolt, so did it from underneath. Hardest bit was getting the bolt back through the alternator and bracket without actually being able to see if it was lined up. Got there in the end though.
The bolt should have this funny pressed metal collar thing that stops it turning, I guess yours was missing! Unlucky :'(
 
Well, long time no update.

The car has been running reasonably reliably (touch wood) since doing the alternator back in December. And I do actually use it on a daily basis as well.

No photos because i'm lazy like that though... I just like to get on with the jobs when there are some to do. Especially with my boy about, whose almost 2... got to use every spare minute wisely.

Fitted a new secondhand fuel level display. Haz sent me four, and this one tested good on the bench, all segments working. Now it's been in the car a couple of months, it's not really any better than my last one. Segments come and go as they please. Oh well.
New secondhand instrument cluster glass fitted too. I reckon that the previous owner wanted white dials or something, but when he found that taking the glass off was a ball ache, he gave up after cracking it down the middle. Used Meguiars plast-x on the new one, brought it up lovely.

Fitted new second hand (tested) injectors to see if I could make my rich idle go away. Don't think it has though. Also put in a new new valeo knock sensor for the same reason. No change.

So thinking about it a bit more, I had better get my ass into gear and try to sort it out. So, in summary, i've put in a new coolant temp sensor (the right type), as well as tested good the old one that was in there. Tested good the intake air sensor, new valeo knock sensor, made sure the crankcase ventilation isn't blocked up with gunge, new secondhand injectors, new secondhand ECU, the recommended NGK platunim plugs gapped correctly, new rotor/cap/leads, air filter. What's left?

I've ohmed the sensors directly from the ECU plug, so that all seems like it's seeing what it's meant to, as well as the CO level pot. From memory, the pot goes from almost zero ohms upwards. Is zero ohms right? I read on another forum that setting the resistance too low will trigger the check engine light. This does not seem to be the case for me, as I have it set at minimum and no light (and the light does work).

What's the 2 pin sensor/switch towards the front of the engine, next to the inlet manifold?

The car seems to run alright otherwise though, and seems to still have impressive mid range torque. Higher up it seems to run out of breath though. Have got a 2.5" v band wastegate housing to put on, as well as the bits needed to make up a 2.5" downpipe when time permits.

The other annoying thing is that I have to bleed the clutch every few weeks. After bleeding, the biting point is close to the top, but gradually works its way down to the bottom. The fluid that comes out initially is black too. I reckon the seal kit in the slave that I put in before the car was on the road are wank, going to have to get one from the shop here. I did replace the hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder, thinking that it was breaking down internally and letting in air, but it's the same still.
 
What's the 2 pin sensor/switch towards the front of the engine, next to the inlet manifold?
It's the sensor for the temp gauge, one wire is the variable resistor feeding through from the gauge to drive the needle reading, the other is the I/O switch for the warning light on the temp gauge.
 
Higher up it seems to run out of breath though
Dump the intercoolers and fit a FMIC (the top intercooler strangles it badly) and sack off everything behind the Turbo inc the elbow, get a cossie housing or similar and a good 3" exhaust (2.5" will do if you dont want mad power) and it'll transform over 5k.
 
going to have to get one from the shop here.
Think I have four in stock, not had any complaints thus far but check that you havent got any fluid leakage from the master down the wall of the bulkhead inside, and check under the slave for fluid leaking. Find the leak first, which component is causing the issue.
Also then check that component internally, for cylinder wear. Much like an engine cyliner the walls should be lightly honed with a crosshatch, and not scored. Luckily for me I found brand new cylinders to throw on my car but if yours are worn it may be worth considering getting it sleeved and bored.
 
Master is 7701050114, I cant find the cross refs but I know you can get a non-OE one as I have one on my car, will have to dig a bit more, if you are inclined to buy new.
I stuck a load of effort into sourcing new cylinders and fork, made new pipework and greased up the clevis and bushes, fitted the spring capsule back in (which was a f**king ****) and welded up and ground to shape the worn pedal pivot for the rod to the master...it was WELL worth it.
 
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