Well, long time no update.
The car has been running reasonably reliably (touch wood) since doing the alternator back in December. And I do actually use it on a daily basis as well.
No photos because i'm lazy like that though... I just like to get on with the jobs when there are some to do. Especially with my boy about, whose almost 2... got to use every spare minute wisely.
Fitted a new secondhand fuel level display. Haz sent me four, and this one tested good on the bench, all segments working. Now it's been in the car a couple of months, it's not really any better than my last one. Segments come and go as they please. Oh well.
New secondhand instrument cluster glass fitted too. I reckon that the previous owner wanted white dials or something, but when he found that taking the glass off was a ball ache, he gave up after cracking it down the middle. Used Meguiars plast-x on the new one, brought it up lovely.
Fitted new second hand (tested) injectors to see if I could make my rich idle go away. Don't think it has though. Also put in a new new valeo knock sensor for the same reason. No change.
So thinking about it a bit more, I had better get my ass into gear and try to sort it out. So, in summary, i've put in a new coolant temp sensor (the right type), as well as tested good the old one that was in there. Tested good the intake air sensor, new valeo knock sensor, made sure the crankcase ventilation isn't blocked up with gunge, new secondhand injectors, new secondhand ECU, the recommended NGK platunim plugs gapped correctly, new rotor/cap/leads, air filter. What's left?
I've ohmed the sensors directly from the ECU plug, so that all seems like it's seeing what it's meant to, as well as the CO level pot. From memory, the pot goes from almost zero ohms upwards. Is zero ohms right? I read on another forum that setting the resistance too low will trigger the check engine light. This does not seem to be the case for me, as I have it set at minimum and no light (and the light does work).
What's the 2 pin sensor/switch towards the front of the engine, next to the inlet manifold?
The car seems to run alright otherwise though, and seems to still have impressive mid range torque. Higher up it seems to run out of breath though. Have got a 2.5" v band wastegate housing to put on, as well as the bits needed to make up a 2.5" downpipe when time permits.
The other annoying thing is that I have to bleed the clutch every few weeks. After bleeding, the biting point is close to the top, but gradually works its way down to the bottom. The fluid that comes out initially is black too. I reckon the seal kit in the slave that I put in before the car was on the road are wank, going to have to get one from the shop here. I did replace the hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder, thinking that it was breaking down internally and letting in air, but it's the same still.