21 Turbo G788 WUD

[Ben12345]

I can confirm that the one door in question does indeed have the torx pins in its hinges. I swapped the original (looked like steel?) bushings for the brass type, and fitted the correct torx pins. The threads were fine thankfully. The three other doors do use the splined pins. The fourth door must have been replaced in its past.
The oil cooler also fitted without too much hassle. The original one just unbolts from underneath after removing the oil filter. 27mm socket I think it was. The Renault/Nissan/Vauxhall/Volvo/Mitsubishi diesel one I bought is thinner by about 6mm, so I had to machine down the central hollow bolt by the same amount to allow it to clamp up. Coolant pipes in a slightly different position, but hoses went on fine without messing.

Other jobs this weekend were put the interior bits that I removed back in and carpet down where I had it up for the welding.

MOT is booked for Friday - wish me luck. The MOT guy said it'll bring back bad memories when he sees the 21.

Still a couple little niggles. The wiper stalk needs to be pulled a certain way to get the washers to spray... I might try to take it apart one evening to clean up the internal contacts before the MOT. Oh, and one of the valve cores in the wheels seems to be duff. One of the tyres keeps going down, so need to put in a new core when I find my removal key.

What do people do about the fuel gauge? Does a standard analogue one work from a lower spec 21? My LCD is not the best, so reading the level is hard. Is there an independent low fuel lamp?

 

[DaveL485]

The oil cooler also fitted without too much hassle. The original one just unbolts from underneath after removing the oil filter. 27mm socket I think it was. The Renault/Nissan/Vauxhall/Volvo/Mitsubishi diesel one I bought is thinner by about 6mm, so I had to machine down the central hollow bolt by the same amount to allow it to clamp up. Coolant pipes in a slightly different position, but hoses went on fine without messing.

Great info!

 

[DaveL485]

wish me luck.

Good luck, fingers and toes crossed for you

 

[DaveL485]

Is there an independent low fuel lamp?

Yeah, when you get to 1 Gallon the yellow light comes on on the dash, assuming you reset it right the last time the battery was reconnected.

 

[Ben12345]

Lol, that'll be a no then. Unless just disconnecting the battery is the right way? What do I need to do to recalibrate it?

 

[DaveL485]

Lol, that'll be a no then. Unless just disconnecting the battery is the right way? What do I need to do to recalibrate it?

Disconnect battery for an hour, reconnect and the trip computer will be a flashing 8888. Twist the reset knob (push to reset the analog mileage, twist to reset trip) to reset it but make sure the car is on flat ground so the fuel level calibrates correctly. Do not reset the trip on a hill, parked on a kerb, or with one end/side on axle stands.

 

[Ben12345]

Disconnect battery for an hour, reconnect and the trip computer will be a flashing 8888. Twist the reset knob (push to reset the analog mileage, twist to reset trip) to reset it but make sure the car is on flat ground so the fuel level calibrates correctly. Do not reset the trip on a hill, parked on a kerb, or with one end/side on axle stands.

Well, I did this, and I've got 0.1 gallons left apparently. I put in 4.5 gallons from a big jerry can about this time last year because it was bone dry due to what I thought was a bad cap seal (which was replaced at the time). The petrol station is only 100 yards down the road, but perhaps i'd better go and get some more in a can first. It wouldn't look good to run out on my maiden trip.

Fixed the wiper stalk this evening too, now I don't need to pull it a certain way to make it work. Also put in a new valve core last night, and the tyre is still at pressure, so all is good

 

[DaveL485]

and I've got 0.1 gallons left apparently.

When it says 0_1 and the yellow light is on that means "under 1 gallon". It goes from 1.2 to 1.1 to 1.0 to [0_1 & yellow light]

That means FEED ME NOW.

 

[Ben12345]

Mot not a good start, co at 6 percent! where's the mixture screw?

 

[Ben12345]

Ok, well i've got more to worry about than the mixture being off anyway. Just got back with my list of things to do.

Got the usual handbrake efficiency issue... hopefully just an adjustment will take care of that
Rear shock top bolt is loose - shouldn't take much
Major thing is that he picked up on the ABS not working!

Time to get out the multimeter and do a bit of electronic fault finding I reckon.

Not bad I suppose after many years off the road.

Time to fire up Dialogys....

 

[|sAs|]

Major thing is that he picked up on the ABS not working!

Sorry to hear. I have the same with my 19 16v. Check all earths first.

 

[Ben12345]

Sorry to hear. I have the same with my 19 16v. Check all earths first.

The earths all seemed to measure out fine. Checked the ones at the computer itself, the master cylinder, at the relays under the central cover.

The ABS bulb was blown (not removed) so put a spare one in, so at least we can now see when it's happy.

The light is now on with the ignition switch, goes out while the engine is starting, then immediately comes back on and stays on.

I have measured at the computer connector, and have approx 1kohm between each wheel sensor, so that seems good. I have a low ohms (less than 10) when measuring to each wheel solenoid valves and main valve, so that side of things look ok.

I have a short circuit between pins 9 and 10, so that means it knows the fluid level and pressure is good.

The diode pack measures ok.

The computer is switching on the main relay as you would expect, and i'm getting either ground or 12v at pins 20 and 3 depending on if its on or off.

The only thing that I cant understand on the diagram is the anti-theft switch. I have 12v at the 3 amp fuse in the dashboard fuse box when the ignition is on and at pin 2 of the computer, so presumably thats ok.

Things point towards the computer being knackered, but does anybody else have any suggestions?

I found the mixture screw as well, looks like someone's already messed with it judging by the pry marks on the plug.

 

[DaveL485]

but does anybody else have any suggestions?

I don't - 99% of the time it's a wheel sensor when the light comes on and stays on. I take it the accumulator pump is working OK?

 

[Ben12345]

I don't - 99% of the time it's a wheel sensor when the light comes on and stays on. I take it the accumulator pump is working OK?

Yes, the brakes themselves work fine, passed the efficiency and imbalance tests on both axles. Just the ABS and handbrake issue. In fact, he'd tested everything and was reversing the car outside, when you could see the cogs turning in his head and he realised that the car had ABS.
The pump pumps up as you would expect, and turns off when pressure is reached.

If it was a wheel sensor not producing a signal or a corrupted signal, wouldn't this only be evident when the car was moving? My warning light is on even when stationary.

 

[Ben12345]

Boom. ABS computer repaired... Light goes out.

I thought I had nothing to lose, so cracked open the computer to see if there was anything obvious wrong. Nothing visible, checked for dry joints, all ok. Measured the output/power devices, and guess what I found? The 5v regulator output was shorted. Pulled it out, and it's fine, so it was something else further along in the circuit. The 10v 1000uf capacitor that smooths the 5v rail was shorted. Replaced with what I had to hand, a 16v 1000uf, popped the 5v regulator back in, and hey presto.

Still don't know if i'll have a wheel sensor issue when I get rolling, there's a lot of crud on the toothed rings. I'll leave that for another day. I don't think the MOT tester will road test it anyway... just see if the light comes on and goes out when it should.

 

[Ben12345]

It never seems to end!
So trying to get the handbrake adjusted.... it just wouldn't, I didn't have enough adjustment. Cables are both free and fine, I thought that they can't be that stretched can they? Turns out that one of the new calipers I have on the back came pre knackered. I took off the rubber boot and the lower handbrake pivot point is completely broken off.

Another new caliper ordered... will be here next Friday they reckon, so no retest before then. Grrr.

 

[DaveL485]

Boom. ABS computer repaired... Light goes out.

I thought I had nothing to lose, so cracked open the computer to see if there was anything obvious wrong. Nothing visible, checked for dry joints, all ok. Measured the output/power devices, and guess what I found? The 5v regulator output was shorted. Pulled it out, and it's fine, so it was something else further along in the circuit. The 10v 1000uf capacitor that smooths the 5v rail was shorted. Replaced with what I had to hand, a 16v 1000uf, popped the 5v regulator back in, and hey presto.

Still don't know if i'll have a wheel sensor issue when I get rolling, there's a lot of crud on the toothed rings. I'll leave that for another day. I don't think the MOT tester will road test it anyway... just see if the light comes on and goes out when it should.

Well shit, you have some handy skills mate! Well done

Usually the rule of thumb with ABS on these is Light comes on and stays on, wheel sensor down. Light comes on, goes off and comes on while driving (or ABS fires at low speed even when you're not on the brakes) dirty or damaged targets and finally ABS and handbrake light on permanently is the ABS accumulator is goosed.

 

[DaveL485]

I took off the rubber boot and the lower handbrake pivot point is completely broken off.

Not uncommon for that sort of problem. Change them for this as much as any other reason. I send calipers for recon at a place I know now rather, they seem competent with this sort of thing.

 

[Ben12345]

Well shit, you have some handy skills mate! Well done

Usually the rule of thumb with ABS on these is Light comes on and stays on, wheel sensor down. Light comes on, goes off and comes on while driving (or ABS fires at low speed even when you're not on the brakes) dirty or damaged targets and finally ABS and handbrake light on permanently is the ABS accumulator is goosed.

Yeah, I do like to have a dabble with electronics from time to time... it's part of my job at work. When you're doing it at work though, I've usually had enough of it and cant be arsed to do it at home too.

The brake caliper probably was in one piece before the MOT, the handbrake did work. The MOT guy said he heard a bang when he jolted on the handbrake lever... that's probably what it was. He said it's probably the cable snapped. He looked confused when it was up on the ramps and both cables were intact. The caliper was a 'Budweg' remanufactured one. I've got another one on the way, hopefully this one lasts longer.

 

[DaveL485]

The MOT guy said he heard a bang when he jolted on the handbrake lever

I had the same with Amrits car, but it was a cable sheath failure. Didnt find it till after I changed the caliper though!