There is more to life with TurboRenault.co.uk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

21 Turbo G788 WUD

Well I got the master cylinder/abs unit taken out and stripped down yesterday.

The shuttle/control valve for the high pressure was stuck as we though. There was lots of contamination and debris in there too, perhaps from too infrequent brake fluid changes? The actuator side of things, I cleaned and flushed out. Free'd up the sticking valve. The lever that moves the cylinder, which is on a ball joint, pivoted from the underneath of the inspection plug was also bent. Presumably from the valve being stuck and the pedal being pressed, so I straightened that out too.

I made a start on the actual ABS valve block too. Lots of crud under the black cover. Rusty looking solenoid valves. Hopefully they are OK. The ribbon cable doesn't look good either, I haven't got continuity to two of the valves, so I will rewire them all and do away with the ribbon completely.

As you can see by how dark the photos are, I was running out of light. I'll try to get out there today to finish up the ABS valve block.
Going to have to go to the local hydraulic supply place and try to get some 'O' rings too for reassembling the control valve assembly into the actuator block. One was pretty much destroyed in it's removal unfortunately.

I read on the Jaguar forums that Jaguar had a service bulletin stating that upon changing pads, open the bleed nipple on the caliper before pushing the pistons back to prevent any 'bad' fluid from being pushed back into the ABS system. Might be worth doing this on our cars in the future!
20161217_143947.webp 20161217_144000.webp 20161217_144025.webp 20161217_144516.webp 20161217_144550.webp 20161217_150242.webp 20161217_150249.webp 20161217_153607.webp 20161217_160049.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Under the solenoid valves.... before cleaning.

I bet the ABS was not working right for a while, no wonder the light has been disabled. Hopefully all of the wheel sensors work OK.

Not a bad idea to strip and clean out your unit, especially if you don't know if the fluid's been changed regularly throughout it's life. Makes me want to go and flush the fluid in my other ABS equipped cars now after seeing the state of this.
20161218_142956.webp
 
Well, It's been almost a year since the last update. Having a one year old (17 months now!) and having any free to get out to work on the car do not go together. It's especially frustrating when everything on this car takes at least twice as long as I expect and every job I do, I find more wrong. Like two steps forwards, one back. I have thought on many occasions about packing it in, but i've persevered and I can almost smell that MOT certificate.
So, in brief, what have I done for the past year?
Well, The master cylinder was still no good after stripping it and resealing. It had way too much power assist afterwards. Like I could touch the pedal with my little finger, and press it all the way to the end of travel. A second hand one was sourced from Haz.
Fitted new brake calipers to the back because after bleeding the old ones, and trying to then make the handbrake work, it would only work on one side.
What's taken up most of the little free time I have is the welding underneath. I expected to have some to do on the outer sills, at the rearmost section by the rear beam mounts, and the front by the jacking points, but as we all know, the more prodding, the more rot is discovered. I had to drop the rear axle, chop out a load of rot and make good where it mounted, replaced inner sills, outer sills etc all in that area. Then on the front it was the same sorry story, jacking points were rotten and removed, which revealed the floor under the jacking points was rotten, as were the inner sills and outer sills. All rot chopped out and replaced.
So as far as I know, all welding work is now complete, so i'm back onto the niggly little jobs. This last weekend, I had a couple of little coolant leaks to have a look at, left over from when I fitted the silicone hoses. One of which is on the remote oil filter heat exchanger. Turns out that the hose tail is completely rotten! which brings me onto my next question:

Does anybody have a remote oil filter in good condition that I can relieve them from in exchange for beer tokens? I see there is one on ebay at the moment, but the seller hasn't responded to my question in regards to hose tail condition.

Cheers, and sorry for being away for so long, and sorry for the lack of photos.
 
Loving the dark Ph1 wheels on that car - they look really good. What colour are they? Are they black or a dark grey?

Always preferred the Ph1 wheels to the Ph2 myself.

The wheels are a dark grey. I can't be any more specific, the powder coater just picked a gunmetal type colour. I didn't want black, and almost went with silver, but I think it was a good choice. I do prefer the phase one turbine wheels, I think they suit the car more.

Good to see you have stuck with it!

The oil coolers are a common problem, in fact its an oil heater AND cooler. If I were intending to keep mine I would try and retrofit something like

New Oil Cooler Renault Clio, Kangoo, Logan, Megane, Modus, Scenic, Dacia Logan | eBay

That looks like a good solution. I take it that the heat exchanger just clamps between the original oil filter mating faces using a longer threaded boss?
 
That looks like a good solution. I take it that the heat exchanger just clamps between the original oil filter mating faces using a longer threaded boss?
Actually thats probably not quite ideal as the 21 one only has the fitting on one side as the sandwich plate is remote, but I can't imagine it would be hard to find a remote M20 oil cooler. You can even remove the adapter plate and spin the filter direct to the block if you need to.
 
I've taken a gamble on one of these heat exchangers... may fit without too much messing. Just whether the thickness is the same as the old one really. I didn't buy new... i've got a used one coming from a breakers for a few quid. If it proves the concept, I may splash out for a new one.
According to the cross reference info, they were fitted to loads of things, including the 21 diesel.
$_58.webp
Nissens 90697
 
Looks like a screw-to-block item, rather than a remote fed one that sits away from the block. Would still work with the coolant pipes extended mind, if you can squeeze it in around the Turbo support bar.
 
That's what I originally thought, but the heat exchanger is actually a separate piece on the remote oil filter, fitted the same way as it would be to the engine block, so we're still in with a chance
1.webp
 
Another day, and a little bit more progress....

Brake hoses swapped for stainless braided. I didn't think that the rubber ones I had were long enough at the front, and were too long at the rear. The braided ones are about 5-10mm longer at the front than the ones I was replacing. I guess that they are just a tight fit. Rears about an inch shorter, no chance of rubbing on the inside of the wheel now. All bled up too, no problems, which surprised me.
Only one of my exterior door handles worked. The MOT man wouldn't have been happy. Bodged the NSR with a cable tie. The metal clip where the actuator rod meets the door latch was broken, so it wouldn't grip the threaded part of the rod. The OSF looks to be the same, but need a mirror on a stick from work to be able to see it! OSR just needed adjusting, glad to see one not ruined by the paint shop who did the respray.

Tried to get the rear electric windows working. The regulators are shagged though. Tubes full of rust, and the brass drive sprocket of one keeps jumping because it's so worn. Have to try to find some good/new ones. Also found that the NSR rear most window guide is not there, and also they've refitted that same door with splined pins instead of torx head pins. Hopefully they've not knackered the threads.

Refitted the side skirts after taking them off to fix the sills. just got them cable tied at the bottom at the moment.

So, for the MOT, I need to fix the OSF door handle, and sort out the oil/water heat exchanger. Oh, and wash off all the grinding dust from the body.
 
Nice to see another making its way back to the road, seems to be the year for 21 sills!

Why is it that the rust is always worse than you think it is, it's never better. I'll be needing some more bits soon if you're still in the mood for selling?

Cheers
 
I'm still poking at bits on this Quadra that didn't seem too bad!
Of course, it's always for sale, i just tend to advertise when I end up with too much
 
They're all splined pins mate, never seen a 21 with torx headed door pins. 2 Pins and 4 brass bushes per door.
You didn't see mine when I first got it Dave, it had all three types including a roll pin.
I now use M6 stainless nuts & bolts with thin washers plus the bushes in the normal manor and it's a easy job to remove a door now.
 
Back
Top