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Alpine A610 Turbo - Megasquirt Conversion

Can you mount the coils on the engine? Make a metal plate (for example) like...

2017-02-15_093608-png.18943

Wow! Good idea but I think I'm constrained by space. The turbo goes right where you put the coils. But it is food for thought. I need to refit the turbo and play around with various locations. I must admit it would be better to mount them near the plugs.

But is it? The point i would have made would be 1)the immense time investment has a 'cost' and 2)with the base ECU's often you will spend as much getting it to work as a package ECU.

Very good point. I am going to have to build a lot of bits, like the IAC driver and the turbo solenoid driver, etc.... The time investment is enormous, especially if it doesn't work! But I console myself that the ECU is only the last bit of the wiring puzzle. If Megasquirt doesn't work for me I can always replace it with Adaptronic or similar. You just want me to be done so I'll build you a fuel computer!

It's on my list...
 
like the IAC driver and the turbo solenoid driver,
Again, all integrated PWM enabled aux outputs in an E4xx.

OK if space is an issue why not use a compact 6-cyl wasted spark solution?

01.webp

That would slot in here I bet

01.webp

Then flog the ones you bought already, because for the packaging you need six coils running wasted spark is overkill and a bit silly :)
 
But is it? The point i would have made would be 1)the immense time investment has a 'cost' and 2)with the base ECU's often you will spend as much getting it to work as a package ECU.
Cost isnt always measured in pounds and pence ( ok it is , but bear with me on this )

Andrew ( great name BTW ) might get more "worth" out of a DIY than a off the shelf. The for me would make it "cost" less .
 
Shopping around a ford mondeo V6 wasted spark coil pack is under fifty quid new, google suggests 4 pins which I imagine are IGN1/2/3 and +12v so it must earth through the case.

Why you are messing six chevy coils is totally beyond me young Andrew :)

Andrew ( great name BTW ) might get more "worth" out of a DIY than a off the shelf. The for me would make it "cost" less .
Installing a standalone ECU with a bespoke loom is fucking HARD for a first timer. Essentially having to make the hardware too is ridiculous.

When a kid learns to swim it doesnt jump in the sea at Dover and (attempt to) swim to Calais.

In case you miss the Analogy, you shitgibbon, Andy is the kid, the Sea is the megasquirt. And I guess the Adaptronic would be a Swimming pool.
 
All right, all right! Of course, you're right about the wasted spark thingy... I just thought the LS1 coils were cool! They also have the advantage that they are logic level triggered meaning I don't have to run high-current wires from the ECU to the coils. I also got them because they're small and give me loads of options for mounting them, although in practice that's becoming harder than I thought.

As for the complexity of the wiring itself, that doesn't phase me. Yes, it is hard for a first timer but I have rebuilt most of a Renault 5 wiring loom before, so, you know... I ain't no fool! And yes, I am learning a lot as I go. I love DIY, even if it takes me longer! I learn more along the way.

First step is to refit the turbo. Once that's in place I'll have a much better feel for the space I have available.
 
I don't have to run high-current wires from the ECU to the coils
Ah yes, watch out for that. What you need is coils with built in igniters. Scoff/EFIP supplies a 4-cyl coil like this, that I just used.... shall I ask him if he has a recommended 6-cyl version? If you try and direct fire a coil without igniters you'll fry the ECU.
 
I can do it! No worries... I'll contact him now.
Thanks!
Andrew
I have an MS2 with v3.0 & MS extra on my 88 Alpine GTA fitted with a 24vl engine & 6 Honda TBS,s...Ford coil pack with edis6....self build loom....currently fitting Audi r8 cop,s in wasted spark, an in tank fuel pump & a 115 Davis Craig EWP with pressure relief thermostat & ally rad...I had to fit a tach adapter as the Ms2 would not drive the old tacho...other than that it runs like a dream...& it,s fast.
Eddie.
 
I think something like this should work?

www.fuddymuckers.co.uk_gallery_ms_V3_Tacho_Out.webp
That's what I will be trying anyway...

I contacted Scoff about 6 cylinder wasted spark coil packs with in-built ignitors. He recommended a VR6 Coil Pack. So I have ordered one. A used one just to test the installation with. If it works I'll probably invest in a new one, but I wanted to just get one to try it out.
I still like the LS1 coils idea but the more I put back in the engine bay the less space there is:

lh3_googleusercontent_com_q_tCZp6YCb_8jx0l4mVVPrqb0s_6W9senRc_3af40ecda5835597483ee10cb25331ce.webp
And:
lh3_googleusercontent_com_vxyDk5uJV0S6U3B53LvNEokF3eSe_nMUVOUR6249aedcd3d1684afc92ebbf242fbc92.webp
I'm just in the throes of putting back as much as I can without impeding the fitting of the various components. I took off way more than I absolutely needed to, but I just got stuck in. The turbo and inlet manifold came off because I dropped a nut in the middle of the V and simply couldn't find it. Then I needed to make up new fuel pipes. And I took all the stuff out of both sides of the bay in order to completely remove and renew the wiring.

I have an MS2 with v3.0 & MS extra on my 88 Alpine GTA

Wow, Eddie! Do you have some photos of the installation? Glad to hear I'm not alone... I'm interested in the R8 COP installation. In some ways, I wish I'd done that straight off.. Oh well.

Andrew
 
Oh and I used rivnuts to repair the faulty threads in the turbo heatshield:
lh3_googleusercontent_com_TIeIahLrRQHt_bZN1GJWYF_1gtX3JeHZrkPP4123a4789782e36b0b231c4681e29296.webp
And replaced a snapped stud in the turbo (it was drilled out by a local welding/fabrication company):
lh3_googleusercontent_com_zmX_99Xk5IIKNR3Lra1Wq60_JqdY2oTu_1fg01b6f63f75b881a0ecd1898c105fac24.webp
Note the nice hex-head in the stud. Cool, eh?
Andrew
 
I think i'd be trying to mount the coil in that gap between the plenum and turbo still. I reckon it would work with the right bracket fabrication. If not then by the right hand fuel rail...though it depends on the size of the coil to the size of the space which we wont know until it arrives! Don't forget with the coil pack you need the plug for it and the wiring diagram too.
 
Thanks. Right hand fuel rail no go as that's where the throttle linkage goes. Between plenum and turbo there's a sensor for the engine bay fan. I was thinking on top of the left hand rocker cover but again, we shall see when the coil pack arrives.
Scoff said the coil pack requires a Packard timer connector. 5 pin. I simply cannot find one anywhere. Plenty of two and three pin but no 5 pin. Looks like a junior timer but isn't, apparently. I have bought a junior timer plug anyway as it's all I could find. Might be able to adapt it.
I still like the LS1 coils!!! But I am willing to experiment with an alternative if it makes my life much easier.
 
r5, Read jbperf.com on setting your MS2 on rpm...I used the one with the inside off an old relay...if you look on my facebook their are some photo,s. do NOT install you VW6 coil pack on the engine unless on rubber bobbins...they hate vibration...I put mine on the n/s bulkhead & used Cosworth v6 plug leads...ah la TVR.
facebook Eddie Wynne, Leiden, Holland.
 
Hehe... it might be any one of those!! Definitely not the last one. Apparently it's not junior power timer. The middle one from Australia is almost definitely the correct one.

However, after agonising over things I think I am still going to go the original LS1 route but I will keep the VW coil pack in reserve. The overall HT lead length and run will be nearly the same as OE and I am not at all worried about additional wiring complexity for the individual coils

.
 
Thanks! By way of an update... Unfortunately I left a heat shield off from underneath the turbo when I refitted it, so it had to come off again!
But luckily I was able to do a better job of some of the captive nuts. I cut small squares of aluminium to use as large washers to cover some of the square holes in the heat shield so that I could replace the faulty captive nuts with rivnuts. Previously I hadn't bothered replacing them - leaving them empty. So I'm glad I replaced them - the heat shield can rattle at motorway speeds. The square washers don't stop the rivnuts from turning, so I turned the corner up on them to act like a tab (no photo of this):

lh3_googleusercontent_com_KHdMyMZIEQm_7JZ_4BgWj7q8l0K70NWzKLwhe164a056cec09cf3c9dce21336c0946d.webp
I have also made up the fuel lines. They are a little too long but I don't think it matters too much. Better that way than not long enough to reach!
lh3_googleusercontent_com_Lv8I9BnEB7TFPYNy53urgj0wANwSt_6Ysoss598d6abedb632109407480692762f22c.webp
and:
lh3_googleusercontent_com_rtxtUIWbocUpftOdpoZPilgmPKsOgwk9a5g92d5bf81cae7e1665545c702caa4b522a.webp
Note the heat insulation!
Andrew
 
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