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Twingo Adey's Twingo GT (F4R+T 2.0ltr engine swap)
- Thread starter Adey
- Start date
Whilst thinking about the routing of the pipe work for my front mount i remembered seeing that the clio variants pipe work was different. On the them the intercooler is on the opposite side to the twingo. This meant the turbo outlet pipe goes in a different direction to mine. A quick look on ebay and ive found one so ordered it this morning. Being a factory part means it should fit nicely and dodge any brackets and other pipes. Fingers crossed anyway. Pipe 1 in the pic for ref. PART NUMBER IS 8200964495
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Coilovers ordered.... found a cheap new set of AP coilovers on ebay and have used them previously, very impressed with them on the clio for budgets and made by KW so not too bad a brand. Tempted to try and find a pms brace and top mounts before they turn up.
whats the difference in them bud? or how do you mod them to fit?
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Fail 
Next time Gadget
Next time Gadget
Tidy, 280mm big brake conversion on the Twingo GT, should be identical on the 5 gtt and the valvers and any base version clio or twingo that had the vented 238mm and 259mm brakes. l just need to complete the other side and bleed everything and take it for a test drive. Props to @niconkk as it was his thread i saw about the 16v brake upgrade and knowing Renault like to share from the parts bin the non rs clios and non rs twingos seem to share the valver brake setup, so i took a punt and tried this on mine.
Basically as already read on this site it can be done with a little PMT, some clio sport 280mm disks and the calipers and carriers of a Peugeot 307 2.0ltr (i believe the petrol and diesel use the same ones, i found these in a breakers by measuring the disk they were on which should be 283-286mm) The disk, pad area, piston and calliper are all bigger so should give better stopping power and heat dissipation.
The carriers require a little material removing where they are close to the disk and then i fitted a small washer to centralise the carrier around the disk. After that is sorted it is a properly bolt on affair. The metal removed is so slight you could do it with a decent file, i did it quickly using a rasp in a power drill.
Basically as already read on this site it can be done with a little PMT, some clio sport 280mm disks and the calipers and carriers of a Peugeot 307 2.0ltr (i believe the petrol and diesel use the same ones, i found these in a breakers by measuring the disk they were on which should be 283-286mm) The disk, pad area, piston and calliper are all bigger so should give better stopping power and heat dissipation.
The carriers require a little material removing where they are close to the disk and then i fitted a small washer to centralise the carrier around the disk. After that is sorted it is a properly bolt on affair. The metal removed is so slight you could do it with a decent file, i did it quickly using a rasp in a power drill.
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Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Good work Adey, tidy solution
Make sure that bolt length ok with washer added and add some thread lock sir
Or maybe tack weld the washer to the carrier if you have a cheeky welder to hand
Dad advice over
Make sure that bolt length ok with washer added and add some thread lock sir
Or maybe tack weld the washer to the carrier if you have a cheeky welder to hand
Dad advice over
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
Ok so a little heads up for others that want to do the brake swap, theres some more grinding to be had. Ive hit mine quickly with a flap in a drill but will probably need to revisit it with a grinder. When i span these by hand there was a little resisitance i took to be pads on disk..... it wasnt. When testing i was getting a noise i also took to be fresh pads on disks... as it was a conversion i removed everything to take a look and check.
looks worse than it is, prob a few thou deep and through some grot but enough to make a noise and cause damage. I didnt get a pic of the clearencing but if its not enough it will only need a tickle with the grinding wheel. The other option could be to turn the disks down 1mm
looks worse than it is, prob a few thou deep and through some grot but enough to make a noise and cause damage. I didnt get a pic of the clearencing but if its not enough it will only need a tickle with the grinding wheel. The other option could be to turn the disks down 1mm
Duncan Grier
Well-Known Member
If you have access to tooling would take a bit off the disc, but check balancing if poss (should be fine mind 
) expect caliper has enough meat to remove without any issues but allow a bit more for heat expansion
) expect caliper has enough meat to remove without any issues but allow a bit more for heat expansion Similar threads
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