Twingo Adey's Twingo GT (F4R+T 2.0ltr engine swap)

[Adey]

Looking at the manual im shafted. The selector need de pinning internally to remove, ill just keep any eye out for a cheap box modus jr5 box and swap it out in the future, it can stay in for now unless I can quickly fix/bolt something to the original setup to rectify it Its no major issue to use as is currently

 

[Neal R19]

Looking at the manual im shafted. The selector need de pinning internally to remove, ill just keep any eye out for a cheap box modus jr5 box and swap it out in the future, it can stay in for now unless I can quickly fix/bolt something to the original setup to rectify it Its no major issue to use as is currently

Is that to remove the whole assembly? Can you just swap the lever arm over? The rest looks the same.

 

[Adey]

Is that to remove the whole assembly? Can you just swap the lever arm over? The rest looks the same.

Yeah the whole assembly. Not sure, Will investigate it further, would be nice if it can be though

 

[Neal R19]

I imagine the arm will just be held to the shifter shaft with a roll pin... fingers crossed

 

[Steve Swan]

If you want to go totally pikey, you can cut another lever off another box and weld it on top of what you've got!!!!!!!!!! From the pics it looks like swapping the top assembly would work. It must be removable. Probably something along the lines of 'put the box in x gear and then lift the top away until you can get the rollpin punched out'. It is probably meant to be done on the bench with the box upside down, just watch out you don't drop anything inside..................

 

[DaveL485]

Ref the downpipe fixings, I used 12.9 studs on the Meglio and roughed up the bottom thread to make it stiff to fit, then used Clio 197 manifold nuts on the studs. They're M8, but deeper bodied and a 10mm hex not 13mm. It makes it WAY easier to get a spanner or socket in there to tighten them up and they're designed to be heat/shake resistant being manifold nuts. I fitted them when I did the conversion and never had to touch them again.

 

[Adey]

You are all correct, theres a scroll pin and it looks like I can actually do it in place so I can revisit that once I find a scrap yard part to replace it. The complete shift tower itself in the manual looks to require the box to be split to remove unlike the 6 speed where it shows it can be lifted clear without opening the box? Either way I think I can work with it.



Also started refitting some of the engine bay uppr trim around the window as I think I'm finished up there. The big engine is starting to disappear in there. Half tempted to try and run the oem meg boost pipe so.i can maybe run a meg engine cover too to keep it all abit neater.

 

[Steve Swan]

Chop that arm with the grinder turn upside down and weld to the opposite side, BOOF job done! If you punch the pin out it may be best to do it with the box selecting one of the highest up of the gears to keep the shaft as high out of the box as possible, there is a slight chance in neutral it may disappear inside.. I hope not

 

[Adey]

Running out of bits to do until the next wave of parts. Wipers also back on and working Might give it a clean, its covered in so much dust from the building site next door.

 

[Adey]

A friend sorted me with some more bits today, namely a forge motorsport boost pipe. So made a start on the cold side boost pipework using the chopped up Forge pipe, I'm waiting on getting my Throttle body back which I'm having welded up with a bit of ali. Standard has a plastic pipe bolted to it but it has a 30mm bore so didn't want to use it. Once that's here I can finish that side up. I've extended the wiring for the map and temp sensor to reach the pipe work using the laguna loom. I think I want to try a megane 225 hot side pipe off the turbo if anyone has a cheap one kicking about? might look a little neater if I can get the boost run to swing around the alternator.

 

[Adey]

So the plan this week is to test drive the car for a few miles (with no exhaust) No load and very partial throttle so the ecu can try and target lambda. So new rad fitted up curtesy of @RustyMojo who had a spare in his garage that he will probably need after selling it on :ROFLMAO: So that was fitted, system bled up and slam panel fully refitted, fingers crossed for the final time. I also picked up my throttle body from Zurawski Motorsport where they welded on a ali pipe so I can actually pipe everything up (i used an old R5 GTT dump valve take off) This was abit scary as I had to fully strip down the throttle body so nothing got cooked when welding and then reassemble it today. All seem fine though but ill know more when I run the car up. @Nick Kettle is sending me a meg 225 hot side boost pipe which if I can use will free up a little space by the radiator which is needed. Everything is getting tight in there now and there's still more to get in Thanks for looking in

 

[Adey]

Cold side wrapped up though I need to get an intake temperature sensor to fully complete it. Rigged up with spares as normal but fits nicely now. Also popped down to my mate at forge motorsport and grabbed a blanking plate (for that cho cho cho flutter noise) and hose to use as a turbo intake. All in and the headlights fully fitted. Just the hot side boost pipework to sort once the megane pipe arrives

 

[Adey]

Today was front pipe fitting day, quick job...... nope. Loosening the subframe to fit the pipe wasn't the issue, the 3 inch front pipe is simply too big to fit over the twingo subframe when bolted up to the Downpipe. Some manipulation to the pipe now has it in place but it's very very close and after swearing loads at fitting it it will probably need some more manipulation or just plain remaking. That said the car now has a full miltek 3inch (just over 2.75id bar where its been smashed lol ) downpipe and front pipe thanks to @Brigsy selling me his cast offs cheers buddy. I also added a support brace from the manifold to try and take some strain and help it not crack or fracture again.

 

[Adey]

PS the red marks on the heatshield are my fresh blood, sharp bastard stuff!

 

[Adey]

On a plus note, I think I have enough spare/scrap to make a semi permanent exhaust system from what's in the garage. It will be a bit of a miss match though good enough for this setup considering the meg so say does over 250bhp on a stock exhaust with just a decat (can anyone confirm)? It looks like it will be milltek decat and front pipe to mid way up the car, then 2.5 inch to just before the rear axle into a 2.25 inch back box. PMT strikes again Will take a look into that next week I think as I also need to tack the new 4 branch manifold for the dope

 

[andybond]

On a plus note, I think I have enough spare/scrap to make a semi permanent exhaust system from what's in the garage. It will be a bit of a miss match though good enough for this setup considering the meg so say does over 250bhp on a stock exhaust with just a decat (can anyone confirm)? It looks like it will be milltek decat and front pipe to mid way up the car, then 2.5 inch to just before the rear axle into a 2.25 inch back box. PMT strikes again Will take a look into that next week I think as I also need to tack the new 4 branch manifold for the dope

Standard meg exhaust is good for 300+ TBH.

 

[Adey]

Standard meg exhaust is good for 300+ TBH.

pretty good for a 2.25inch system! I should be fine with my hack job then

 

[andybond]

pretty good for a 2.25inch system! I should be fine with my hack job then

You will run out of puff well before then with the 14T turbo.

 

[Adey]

the target is 250bhp in my head everything on there should cope with that easily and not stress things too much and still be relatively spicy in a circa 1000kg car.

 

[andybond]

250 is more than doable on standard injectors and turbo. I would strongly recommend that you get the injectors cleaned or < swear words > buy some new ones < /swear words >