21 Turbo 21 Turbo Quadra joins Renault 5 stable!

[r5gordini]

Well, the last posting I made got the courier to magically arrive on my doorstep just as I pressed "Post Reply"!
The inner wing is in good condition but requires a few minor patches. I'm glad it's in good condition. My intention is to use it to repair the inner wing on mine.

 

[DaveL485]

Get all that seam sealer off and check under it, and renew it (the sealer) mate. Belt and braces

 

[r5gordini]

Thanks Dave... I think my garage wants to just patch the turret and inner wing with localised repairs - I want to let them do that. Then I can do the rest at my leisure! I went to see the car today and they are very excited about the project.
Question for you - when they remove the engine, is it better to remove from above, or complete with the subframe from below? The reason they ask is because they're doing all the suspension work too - strut top bearings, wishbones and bushes, etc... They were thinking it might be easier to remove from below...
I do need to leave it up to them but would appreciate your thoughts.

 

[andybond]

Above.

Captive nut nightmare.

 

[r5gordini]

Ah. I had heard that - do they just not undo and then the captive nuts are left floating? Captive nuts for the subframe, anti-roll bar or both/all?

 

[DaveL485]

DO NOT remove the subframe. Take the engine out the front/top, its easy enough. Use the access this gives to remove the box, it'll be tough and you'll think how much easier it would be to drop the subframe at the back but trust me if you touch those bolts you'll regret it. Unless the have been out in recent history the nuts will be hard on the bolts, this will wreck the captive cage and then broken captive cage stops you getting a spanner on the nut. The bolt may also have seized in the bush collar.
Usually you have to cut the bolt heads off, drive the subframe off the remaining stud, cut the stud flush and retrieve from the recess in the bodywork with the broken captive cage. Likely the process will wreck the bush, I've also destroyed subframes before now getting em off.

Engine out the top, support box, remove legs, either pull out the top or drop out the bottom.

Only ever attack subframe bolts if you have to. And I mean HAVE to.

 

[r5gordini]

Thanks Dave, thanks Andy! Once again, the forum can save so much heartache! I feel such a noob with this car.

 

[DaveL485]

Ah. I had heard that - do they just not undo and then the captive nuts are left floating? Captive nuts for the subframe, anti-roll bar or both/all?

The centre ARB cages have M8 welded captive nuts, these are usually OK. Its the subframe bolts and loose cages that will reduce you to a weeping, burbling, dribbling heap of mental jelly.

 

[Robx1r]

before you change the box, drop a wee bit of oil out of it. the chances of all your gears being fooked is very very low, to me what your describing can mean

Low/worn/wrong gearbox oil.
worn carrier bearing
even possibly wheelbearings, (hard to tell not hearing it!)

 

[DaveL485]

You're not alone anyway @r5gordini I drove @phil21turbo 's one today and thats grinding like a pissed chav in a D&B nightclub too lol

 

[r5gordini]

Thanks guys, I'm pretty certain it's diff whine, but I could be wrong. Previous owner said it had always done it since he'd owned it and I can't believe he'd not changed the gear oil in all the time he'd had it. He'd done the clutch, for example. Don't think it's wheel bearings. What's the carrier bearing? Do you mean the propshaft bearing? I could get them to change it first? It really does sound as though it's coming from the front and thus the 'box.
Appreciate all thoughts here!

 

[DaveL485]

Thanks guys, I'm pretty certain it's diff whine, but I could be wrong. Previous owner said it had always done it since he'd owned it and I can't believe he'd not changed the gear oil in all the time he'd had it. He'd done the clutch, for example. Don't think it's wheel bearings. What's the carrier bearing? Do you mean the propshaft bearing? I could get them to change it first? It really does sound as though it's coming from the front and thus the 'box.
Appreciate all thoughts here!

Prop bearings dont tend to whine, i've never heard one anyway. If the bearing gets rough it just rips up the rubber donut and spins the whole lot around and chews itself to bits and rattles around the bearing carrier at low speed. Sounds like someone thumping the floor of the car really fast. When mine packed up at the 'ring, it squealed like a little piggy as the rubber was rubbing on itself.
Hope the new box is OK, had the same convo with Phil at the weekend. Recommended he get the spare box rebuilt before it goes in, but if you like a gamble, then dont

 

[r5gordini]

It is a gamble. The used 'box was sold to the previous owner as a "good" box. It cost him a pretty penny too...
How much do places charge these days to open a box up and check it out and reassemble, without any work?

 

[DaveL485]

It is a gamble. The used 'box was sold to the previous owner as a "good" box. It cost him a pretty penny too...
How much do places charge these days to open a box up and check it out and reassemble, without any work?

I use a semi-retired UN1 specialist. He's a great chap, if a little fragile nowadays lol. I can ask him if you like?

 

[scottyboy1]

Just thought i would say that on my previous quadra , i thought i had a diff whine so i changed the rear diff not once but twice. Still had a whine, guess what ,it turned out to be the prop bearing in the end. My advise would be take the prop off and go for a small drive just to be on the safe side. Wish i did as would of saved me some ££££s . Cheers...

 

[r5gordini]

Thanks! I'm pretty sure it's coming from the box. I've listened very carefully and the noise sounds like it's coming from the front of the car. Garage is all lined up to start work. They've got it in a 7-day block of work! In a crisis of confidence I have decided to get the new 'box checked. The garage will handle it! I'm hoping to go there later on in the week to see how they're doing. They start tomorrow!
Oh, and I have told them not to touch the subframe bolts!

 

[DaveL485]

Oh, and I have told them not to touch the subframe bolts!

Engine out, support the box, undo the 'box mounts from underneath then remove the 'box leg bolts at the gearbox (3 on each). The top ones you can get from the front with the lump out. Pull the legs out then remove the box.
There isnt enough tunnel clearance to lift the gearbox mount stud clear of the subframe before you hit the tranny tunnel lol

 

[r5gordini]

OK! So I just got back from visiting the garage and thought I'd give an update.
I decided to get the used 'box checked and it's a good job I did! 5th gear rusted to the shaft (or something like that). It had been left outside and had got wet and water had got inside and rusted it. My hope is now that a good 'box can be built out of the used one and the one that was in the car. The one that is in the car now works fine, it just whines really badly.
In other news, the engine is mostly ready to come out:



Do I need new engine mounts?

I do have new braided oil pipes (I think)!

Propshaft bearing knackered... The bearing itself is ok, but the rubber bit is broken:
Crustiness around the front valance:

A few minor oil leaks on the engine (not going to worry about them for now):

All in all, great progress for a day's work!
I am very relieved that I got the 'box checked out. It would have been a huge issue if we'd just plonked it in and found that it was faulty and had to do it all again!
I'm very excited that work has started on the car. Further updates to follow in a day or two.
Andrew

 

[andybond]

Looks like a step in the right direction !

 

[DaveL485]

Do I need new engine mounts?

Nah be alright for a bit. As long as they aren't loose.

I do have new braided oil pipes (I think)!

They all do that.

Propshaft bearing knackered... The bearing itself is ok, but the rubber bit is broken

They all do that

Crustiness around the front valance

They all do that

A few minor oil leaks on the engine (not going to worry about them for now)

They all do that


New front lower crossmembers are still available brand new, about £180 if you feel rich. I bought one and fitted it up as a bolt-on-bolt-off panel. Took a bit longer but it means I can remove it if I need to, make it a bit easier getting the lump in and out.