The 1957 Dope Dauphine

[Turbell]

Thanks again @Turbell for all the help with this. Am I right in thinking the liners are sat on copper seals too? and dont disturb the liners/pistons with the head off similar to the later wet liner stuff? what's the spec on liner protrusion do you know?

if it's the gasket I'm not too bothered about that as essentially its will cost very little to check and do. If the pump was still fubar I would of not bothered looking further and knocked it on the head for now.

Yes to above re liners and copper base seal, protrusion is between 0.8 and 0.15....but depends on how accurate you measure it/new build there's a raised ridge on bottom of liners that cuts into copper base seal, so if it's fresh you are better right at top end, but even though I've had this one decked, there's still a difference from cam side to manifold side
Unless yours are well sunk, flat will do

 

[Adey]

Got bored and was intrigued as to what may be going on. Whipped it all of with ease, nothing major. Despite the mess its not actually all that bad in there, pistons have very little movement, slight lip at the top of the liners. One of them has staining frow what looks like a leak of water, the same boree in the gasket looks like its started to blow through to the water channel but only just, a bit of the material between the layers of copper is missing at this point. Another one looks close to going also. Water is full of rad weld type stuff despite me flushing it out previously. I think i disturbed it all when clearing the block drain plug. Had to do it a few times to get rid of everything when the head was off. Will check the head with a straight edge and give it a light clean if needed and check the seal on the valves.

 

[Brigsy]

Looks like somebody has been a bit keen with the radweld trying to bodge it in the past. Prob be reet with a new gasket, is it a cast head?

 

[Adey]

ali head, should be fine as it doesn't look like its blown through properly anywhere. Will check it shortly

 

[Brigsy]

Most likely be right with a clean up mate. Did you get temp gauge working?

 

[Adey]

not yet lol, next on the list. Fans always running and it's never too hot to touch and stuff so dont think it's over heated whilst I've had it.

 

[Adey]

So all the faces have been cleaned up a little and look ready to go. Not measured the liner protrusion, they don't step down from the block so will run with it. All bolts and threads cleaned up and ready to rock. I have latched the exhaust manifold flap fully open whilst it was on the bench. I refitted the spark plugs and filled the chambers with WD40 as that's all i had kicking about and not a drop has passed the valves so a bit reluctant to touch them. Its been in there a good 8 hours now so will check it again in the morning.

Closer inspection of the original gasket shows its almost twisted out of shape in places, cylinders 1 and 4s bore on the gasket is twisted, the same 2 have cleaner piston tops too and number 1 is the one that has staining on the liner. The gasket had huge ballooning in places too, almost as if something had been pressurising it, there is an inner and outer layer to these gaskets so i think/hope that's where my fluid was getting through and mixing. Its 8-10mm thick in places where it wasn't between 2 solid faces. Hopefully a fresh gasket will see it up and usable, at least no worse that it already was

 

[Brigsy]

I never touch valves unless not sealing, so would leave them well alone if ok.

New headgasket and should be good to go

 

[Turbell]

Clean threads out in block , air line and plug tap, make sure bolts are all correct length and in order, there's three or four lengths, knowna few blocks crack along manifold side, why I'm not really sure it's never happened to me, but have known it, whether it's liners too proud or bolt threads full of fluid hydraulicing?

 

[Adey]

Yep all done ready for tomorrow. Some of them were full of crap at the bottoms. Looks like 4 different length bolts, i didn't click when taking them out so will check their lengths through the head before putting it back in place.

 

[Adey]

Head all back on, engine up and running. Sounds abit more stable on idle now though a little tappy as i set the clearances wide. The throwing water out of the over flow on initial start up seems to have gone too. Warmed right up and ran for about an hour. No over pressurisation of the coolant. All the old oil has been emptied out and refilled with some fresh 20-50 mineral oil. The Haynes manual (for the 845cc R4) says to do 300 miles then re-torque the head but ill do it tomorrow when stone cold same as i would on a c1j, then reset the tappets again. Hopefully this will have stopped my water/oil mixing issue. Not expecting a jump in compression tbh as i think this is down to worn bores/rings but it will be usable as is if the mixing has stopped.

 

[Adey]

So far so good. Quite surprised how much extra torque the bolts took, maybe because it's a copper gasket? water level hasnt moved a mm, oil looks clean (bar a little trace of murkiness) hopefully just residue as the water isnt missing. Re checked the timing and tweaked it a little and set the idle best I could. I think alot of the parts are old so its a case of balancing up everything, wear/slop in the dizzy and the carb probably arnt helping but she idles ok at around 720rpm and revs really cleanly. Cleaned up a few connections and now the temp gauge is working bar a little slow. If I earth the sensor it goes hard over to hot now so not too worried.

Next on my list of jobs is to try and reinstate/fix some of the original switches. Indicators and sidlights are on toggle switches.

Also word of warning. Dont accidentally poke your fingers into the back of the fan, it hurts, alot

 

[Turbell]

Great news, think you made a wise choice just swapping gasket out and leaving rest alone.
Did finger in moving fan trick myself.....there was a moment before pain started when I just looked and counted up....then as I did it in front of someone had to pretend it was nothing and go and cry behind garage.
You won't have a stat in it?
Is radiator blind in situ?
Cos that's only way of controlling air flow through rad.....as your car seems to have early 4cv type pump, heating is ducted air , four pipe water pump models have a water/air exchanger to the right of bay, with a big pipe that ducts hot...warm...cooler by the time it gets there to distribution flap arrangement under dash

 

[Adey]

So after all of that, a deal has been struck. The 845cc engine and box will be removed and replaced with a 4 speed and hopefully a 1397cc that's been donated by the legend that is @Big Steve - Raider currently travel bans are in place so cant currently collect anything. I wont be fitting it with a turbo tbh as I think I'll end up dead and the car ripping itself to bits but in atmo form it should give a few more horses for driving around on. I'm feeling a 1397 on a big carb or 2 for some snorting goodness. Making it all fit and work will be fun........

 

[Big Steve - Raider]

a 1397cc that's been donated by the legend that is @Big Steve - Raider

Don’t talk too soon, it was previously buried...

 

[Brigsy]

Any quick test drives yet on current lump?


Bang a c3j or mega skimmed head to raise the comp up on a c1j. I swear they hardly rev without boost

 

[Adey]

not yet jon, will give it a spin round the block over the next few days. It's probably nowhere near as bad as it was, even the last drive before I did the headgasket was a million times better than the drive home.


got this delivered today too, hopefully it's better than my front left one which is quite possibly the most buckled wheel I've seen on a car ever.

 

[Adey]

choke on, starts on the button! runs super sweet now in comparison to how it was, almost seems a shame to remove it all but will definitely be a benefit when driving some distance. not having to do 55-60mph on the motorway or having to really really judge pulling out ant junctions will make it all worthwhile

 

[Adey]

A little peeve I had with the car when I got it back was the indicators being wired on a toggle switch (sidelights are too). The original stalk had snapped off, a common issue and replacements are available but I decided to re wire the switch in and bodge it with an old screwdriver. Its nowhere near a mint car so no need to drop €100 on the replacement part. So switch re wired, remaining part of the stalk drilled to the correct size needed and then glued in place. It works so it's a win

 

[Adey]

Manual choke done (temporarily) I got hold of the longest push/pull choke cable I could find but it's still didnt reach from the rear to the front of the car and to the underside of the dash, I have instead fitted it beside the handbrake and its works very well. Hooked up to my diy auto choke delete. The bigger engine and carb will require a manual choke also so its future proofing it.