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Silver Quadra

Well I struggled all day yesterday. It will be worth it in the end surely.

With the engine out I was able to swap the gearbox mounts, had to cut about 10mm off the thread each end; it leaves plenty of stud for the retaining nut but makes it easier to squeeze between the box leg and subframe. Gearbox sits nicely now :-D

There was also a dent in the front cross member which was knocked out nicely. Then I gave the turrets, chassis legs and front a wipe down with a sponge for the Lee's; nothing crazy just took off the loose dirt.

Then the fight was on to get the engine and box back together. Wasn't too bad this time, with some help of the bell housing bolts she went in. Managed to get everything bolted back in before sun down, test drive today. Sadly not time to change over the bonnet skins, or offer up my front mount to measure for pipe work. Another days work I guess.
 
yeah words of confidence on MSN,

also a big thank you to Sibley, his asking what I've broken everytime I ring keeps up the Renault spirit and Rabson cause hes a legend with wise words.

anyway the clutch isnt disengaging properly so Andy has suggested I space the slave on a temp basis until I swap the engines over again.
 
yep everything when on mint, I've spaced the slave with an m7 nut to see if that give the extra push required to disengage it properly. I will test it tonight and see; pikey I know but a temp fix until its all out again for phase 1 conversion
 
Ok, so this was the order of the day on Sunday.... I know taken me a while to actually post this but oh well.

Freshly rebuilt, and my knackered system will be stripped down and inspected pending rebuild itself. Also popped down to the local hose place and had a replacement braided hose made, along with some adapters; all Goodridge. Cheap as well :smile:

i278.photobucket.com_albums_kk107_danb21t_quadra_IMG_0505.webp

Pedal feels better and I have plenty of travel on the fork.
 
Ok, an update - been a while.. Quadra has been hibernating for a while now.

I decided to replace Andy's master and slave as they were only ever on loan. Looked into various possibilities and decided to follow Jo and others with the Wilwood brake master solution...with a difference.

So I purchased one of these, a 0.625" Wilwood compact cylinder

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0602.webp

Once received it was time to do some careful measuring. As the Renault master has studs of M7 and the Wilwood has holes for M8 bolts there was going to be some fabrication work needed.

Jo had told me that he used the original push rod from the Renault master on the Wilwood. I was looking to do this also (as seem in the above picture), of which there are two options. Drill out the turnbuckle to M8 and attach to the Wilwood threaded pushrod. Or use the original Renault pushrod in its entirety.

However, the Wilwood, once in place would protrude excessively into the footwell, not to mention modification need on the pedal box to accept the M8 fixings - if left as is would cause the pedal to over sweep causing damage. A solution was needed...

Take one piece of 12mm flat bar, 45mm wide. Mark out Wilwood fixing centres. Take said piece of metal to work, load it in the lathe and bore the mother out.

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0605.webp

Bring it home and drill out the M8 fixing holes and tap them also.

Screw in two M8 bolts, not quite all the way down, soon to become studs.

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0610.webp

Flip it over and weld them in place

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0609.webp

Notice the weld which has filed flat, now mark out the fixing dimension for the original Renault master/pedal box. Drill 3/4 of the way through, and tap to M7. You can just see that I had to drill into the just welded M8s.

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0611.webp

Cut some M7 bolts down to stud length and stud locked them in. No pictures of this though.

Now I have a spacer for my Wilwood which brings the cylinder out from the foot well bringing it back inline with that of the original. No over stroke issues!

Fits lovely, only it needs to be shaped. So out came the angle grinder and various files. Resulting in this.

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0620.webp

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0621.webp

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0622.webp

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0623.webp

Ok so armed with this I was itching to get it on the car. Speaking with Jo he told me that he uses banjos on his setup and decided this would be the only realistic option due to space issues.
The inlet and outlet off the Wilwood are in reverse compared to the Renault original.

Anyway off to the local hose shop to have a modified hose made which banjo fittings on the master end.

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0624.webp

k107_danb21t_Wilwood_20Clutch_20Master_th_IMG_0625.webp

Got it all on the car and bled, pedal felt lovely.. was very excited. I may have a very cheap solution to the hard to come by Bendix masters.
Started her up, popped into gear and the biting point was very very low, like on the floor low. hmmm.. anyway left it there for the moment.

Did some calculations based on the master cylinders that Wilwood offer compared to the original Renault. Here are my father and my findings.

Wilwood offer this master in the following sizes.

0.625"
0.70"
0.75"

As we measured the Renault master in mm, we first converted the imperial sizes to metric, giving.

0.625" - 15.875mm
0.70" - 17.78mm
0.75" - 19.05mm
Renault MC - 18.8mm

Next we had to measure the overall stroke of the Renault master, which we worked out to be 33mm. Looking at the specifications of the Wilwood you can clearly see that the stroke is greater. Wilwood stroke is 35.6mm.

260-6089_dwg-lg.jpg


This put my mind at ease and this method will not result in any cylinder damage due to over sweeping.

Looking at the bore sizes above it is clear that the 0.75" is closest to the Renault master, a fraction larger infact.
The swept volume of the two are as follows, calculated on the original 33mm Renault stroke.

Renault - 1949.0440822871077251422239549866 mm3
0.75" - 1974.9622216792235193595407628987 mm3

After fitting, the pedal feels just as good but with a more reasonable biting point.

Next I started looking into slave cylinders.

My father visited Florida to do some maintenance on our villa and whilst out there I was busy looking around for cheap stuff for him to bring back.
I happened to stumble across the good old Delorean websites again. Slave cylinders, BRAND NEW, direct from Texas.
Well.. the Delorean uses the UN1 so must have a similar setup. Taking a gambled I ordered a couple.

And this is what arrived.

_albums_kk107_danb21t_Delorean_20Slave_th_DSC_0061.webp

_albums_kk107_danb21t_Delorean_20Slave_th_DSC_0062.webp

Some more pictures once back in the UK.
21 slave above.

_albums_kk107_danb21t_Delorean_20Slave_th_IMG_0633.webp

_albums_kk107_danb21t_Delorean_20Slave_th_IMG_0634.webp

_albums_kk107_danb21t_Delorean_20Slave_th_IMG_0635.webp

_albums_kk107_danb21t_Delorean_20Slave_th_IMG_0636.webp

That looks pretty damn similar to me!!
Only issue being, they use a bleed nipple directly into the slave, where Renault have bored it out to M10 and run the remote bleed pigtail.

I am going to have to drill out the Delorean replacement. More to come on this...
 
nice work Dan but i'm convinced that you messed up the stroke on the .625. I dont have a problem with this type and is already fitted for 2 years. The only diff is that whe bleed with the electronic machine. 0.0 air in the system.
 
nice work Dan but i'm convinced that you messed up the stroke on the .625. I dont have a problem with this type and is already fitted for 2 years. The only diff is that whe bleed with the electronic machine. 0.0 air in the system.

possibly, we will never know. but the calculations say otherwise.. either way if aint broke dont fix it!

hopefully this will be of use to other membes - maybe Bond wants to make a sticky with the calculations
 
Dan cos iam a spaz can you set it all out for me in the next post and ill sticky it ?
 
I have now drilled out the Delorean slave and tapped it to M10 x 1.0
Still have to bend up some new pipe for the pigtail but thats a straight forward thing to do before fitting.

Now moving onto trying to get the big brakes installed.. ordered some 1" square bar of aluminium. Mocking up, needed to mill the mounting lugs slightly to clear the mounts of the hub.

Once the brackets are made, I will be splitting the hubs and wheel flange and putting them in some Deox solution to remove rust. Then a quick coat of hammerite black and back together with spangly new bearings.

Pics to come.
 
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