5 GT Turbo R5 GT Turbo - Complete strip down and re-build #1

[sparkie]

Just bang 'em in, if they have a step upwards you can feel with a fingernail after clamping them down, they'll be fine.

 

[DaveL485]

Just bang 'em in, if they have a step upwards you can feel with a fingernail after clamping them down, they'll be fine.

Bang em in.

Fingernail.

Got it

 

[Steve Swan]

If it starts `swapping spit' you'll be sorry..............

 

[Chris74#]

Bang em in.

Fingernail.

Got it View attachment 210164

That’s exactly what I got!!

 

[Chris74#]

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Ordered via your link Dave

 

[Chris74#]

Shell bearings turned up during the week so got out there yesterday to get the crank back in!

I followed @sparkie 's post on the C1J rebuild and cross-referenced the destruction manual! I gave everything a good clean and then got to work!



Gave them a wipe and some oil before sliding the bearing in!



I dabbed a bit of grease on the thrust bearings to hold them in place, notches out!




Then I put some oil on the seal and slid it carefully over the end of the crank.

I then got some sealant on the seal and carefully laid the crank back in place!

Then started fitting the caps!




Then torqued them all down! I thought I would drop the sump on to stop any dust or crap getting in there while waiting for the cylinders and pistons! I gave the inside a good clean up with the wire brush first!

Then gave it a wipe over with some clean oil!

Once I had it on and loosely bolted in place I noticed this!

I have no idea how that got there, the engine ran fine before the strip down no leaks! WTF? Did the powder coater drill it to hang it up? surely not!! Anyway, had a melt down and left the garage for the day extremely pissed off!
Got up this morning and decided that I would repair the sump with a simple weld! I got the sump off and wiped it down and set about dropping a bit of weld in the hole!






I then thought I can powder coat the patch!!


Powder on then in to the oven!

I got it out of the oven but wasn't happy with it, so I coated the whole thing!

and back in the oven!

Much better!!!!




You'd never know!!!
I then had another clean up in the garage and decided to have a go at refitting all the bits to the drivers side door! I fitted all the locking mechanism's and then the glass! I had to re-connect the battery to wind the window up & down!

Most things are working, wipers, horn, lights! result!

Thanks for reading guys!

 

[sparkie]

I hate to be 'that guy', but did you remember to oil the bearing surface that the crank sits on, and oil the crank main and big end pins?

 

[Chris74#]

I hate to be 'that guy', but did you remember to oil the bearing surface that the crank sits on, and oil the crank main and big end pins?

I did!! I followed your ‘guide’

 

[Duncan Grier]

Great weekends progress, loving the continued 'OCD' edition build

 

[Steve Swan]

As you assemble after fitting all the maincaps keep turning the engine as you Torque up each cap, keep turning the motor as you fit each piston. If you get a tight bit you will know where the problem lies, rather than built it and find out it's tight and have to take it all apart. The guy who taught me has built thousands of engines(it's his day job) and I kid you not the engine will be practically run in by the time he's got it all together it has been turned that many times!!! I have only ever had one big end go tight on me, I stripped it checked everything, couldn't see an issue, put it back together and it was fine. Check twice, build once,......

 

[DaveL485]

** considers making Sparkie's thread pay-per-view **

 

[Brigsy]

Firing it up straight away or is it standing for a bit? I use assembly lube instead of oil on anything thats not going to be run asap. Graphogen or whatever.

 

[Chris74#]

Firing it up straight away or is it standing for a bit? I use assembly lube instead of oil on anything thats not going to be run asap. Graphogen or whatever.

Hopefully firing it up straight away mate. I’d like to be driving it this summer!

 

[Chris74#]

Not making massive amounts of progress, but still plugging away at it! Some solid rivets turned up during the week so I got the id tag back on the block!

I also managed to pick up a standard intercooler and gave it a good clean up. I started by giving it a few swills with petrol, until the petrol swilled clean!

I then gave it a good coating of soapy water and gave it a scrub!

I then dried it of and gave it a wipe down with some paint prep! and gave it a light coating of black paint!

I then gave the fins a clean and a light misting of Hammerite smooth silver!

Looks brand new! I also cleaned and plated the drain screw after this pic!


I then went and collected the cylinder head from the local engineering shop. He skimmed it, pressure tested it and re-ground the valves. He said no issues at all with the pressure test!

I decided that I would fit the springs to hold the valves in place!
I had a mare with the valve stem seals and managed to break the first two!

I got the hang of them and fitted the remaining six! Does anyone have a couple of seals spare? I managed to pull the spring base washers from another head and got the springs on!

I got the passenger door gubbins back together plating and cleaning the bits as I went!
Thanks for reading guys!

 

[Steve Swan]

Looks like several lifetimes supply of rivets there.........

 

[Chris74#]

Looks like several lifetimes supply of rivets there.........

Ha ha ha! Only wanted 4, but had min order of 100!! let me know if you need some!

 

[Duncan Grier]

Return them @Chris74# and give reason they are 2 short

 

[Chris74#]

Return them @Chris74# and give reason they are 2 short

 

[Brigsy]

Worth measuring head to see how much has been took off when skimmed before fitting. If its a bit low might need to do some mods to ign or reprofile squish area to drop cr a bit.

The gtt valve stem oil seals are crap, fall to bits eventually, im not shocked to see them fail on fitting. Some people used to run c20xe from memory so might be worth a look. I personally run none at all, without too many issues, bit of a puff of blue smoke on hot start thats it.

 

[sparkie]

Exactly the same thing happened to me with the stem oil seals, i used a socket and found that if you hit it too hard, the top breaks on the seal. Except I didn't put that in my thread. I usually don't run them, but the guy really wanted them.
I'll have some rivets off you if you've got 98 going spare....