Wanted R21t parts

[Haz]

I'm after a heater matrix, new if poss, any suggestions?
Also after the cables for the controls too.
Anyone come up with an alternative for the resistor pack?
Why do people change to the ph1 hydraulic clutch? Thinking of changing to the cable type.

 

[DaveL485]

I'm after a heater matrix, new if poss, any suggestions?
Also after the cables for the controls too.
Anyone come up with an alternative for the resistor pack?
Why do people change to the ph1 hydraulic clutch? Thinking of changing to the cable type.

Do you not know how to use the Google or summat? Make sure you use these links as we get skimlink credits.
Renault 21 heater Matrix:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-73352-Heater-Matrix-/291580058462?fits=Car+Make:Renault|Model:21&hash=item43e3869b5e:g:7rgAAOSw9r1WD034
Heater Resistor pack (Rheostat)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400066980041?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Cable type clutch from the NG-series box is pull, not push. All UN- are Hydraulic, and then the transverse setup is for the F-series with a JB box.

 

[Haz]

Thanks.I recall a matrix post a while back but I figured you would have a direct link
I was thinking the ng setup, just looped forwards.
What's the difference between ph1 and the others then?
It seems the rod that connects to the clutch pedal has ovaled, and the slave isn't retracting enough to give the fork some slack.

 

[Haz]

The seller also has them for the 2.1, looks the same and cheaper?
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-Ren...3D291580058462&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460

 

[DaveL485]

The seller also has them for the 2.1, looks the same and cheaper?
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissens-Renault-21-Savanna-Heater-Radiator-73352-2-1-1986-1995-/331329617031?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150519202351%26meid%3D26782719ed7544a79a913b430b9b422c%26pid%3D100408%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D19%26sd%3D291580058462&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460

All the same AFAIK, but don't blame me if it's wrong lol

The phase 2 clutch system is made up of plastic cylinders not metal, and is a one-use, snap fit unbleedable system. Once air is in it, you're shagged. It is however a lighter pedal and cheaper for the manufacturer. The phase 1 system has metal rebuildable cylinders, and is bleedable. To convert you have to change everything from the pedal through to the Slave cylinder.
All the rods oval a bit after thousands of rotations, there is plenty of travel on the slave to take this up, but check the pedal pivot and master rod for wear too and make sure it's bled properly. What are your symptoms?

 

[Haz]

Worth a try then, just wanted the dash out and back in without having to wait if it's wrong. Will see what the seller suggests.
Ah ok, no point changing unless to cable then.
It's been bled a few times so pretty sure that isn't the issue.
The pedal comes up higher than it should, there's about an inch of free travel on the pedal before it pushes the rod and it hits the floor before bottoming out the master. Biting point seems to be in the right place though. Video'd the slave and seems to operate properly, just that it's not fully retracting so there's a little tension on the fork. It can be forced by hand so it's slack but then slides back out as if there still some pressure between master and slave?

 

[Red21]

The important operating clearance is the fork. You should have 11-12mm of clutch fork travel with the pedal fully depressed. I have known the forks to fracture around the ball pivot, also around the push rod on the fork.
As Dave has said there is plenty of scope within the cylinder travel to compensate for pedal rod wear.
I know that some of the sealed units had the pedal coupling fitted with adjustable pedal rod but these were an aftersales fitment system as some kits did not come with rods.

 

[DaveL485]

The important operating clearance is the fork. You should have 11-12mm of clutch fork travel with the pedal fully depressed. I have known the forks to fracture around the ball pivot, also around the push rod on the fork.
As Dave has said there is plenty of scope within the cylinder travel to compensate for pedal rod wear.
I know that some of the sealed units had the pedal coupling fitted with adjustable pedal rod but these were an aftersales fitment system as some kits did not come with rods.

Beat me to it, yeah 11mm of travel on the fork top.
If you dont want the slack get the welder out and repair the pedal > master rod slack and rod to the fork (or get a new fork with the updated rod/pin).