5 GT Turbo Pink GT Turbo Restoration

[Haz]

Looking again, if the seats are mint they're worth decent money to the right buyer.
Quite a few bits missing though.
Os wants paint as does the ns wing, which will then make the bay look tatty, so starting to look like a full respray,.
Think the cooler is gt tuning, again should do ok to the right buyer.
There's the unknown too, like what's the lump like. Worth trying to spin it over by the bottom pulley to make sure it's not seized. Are the brakes seized up etc.
I'd pull a few more bits off too, rear bumper, kit on the other side etc.
It's fixable, just depends on your abilities, how far you want to go with it and how deep are your pockets.

 

[Haz]

Not sure. Most of my project threads where on rtoc. Drill out the spot welds on the lip, chop them off under the skirt mounting tabs.
Let me see if I've got owt on my photobucket account from a while ago

 

[Haz]

The rtoc raffle car needed more, so far anyway haha.
http://s50.photobucket.com/user/nocturnaldevelopments/library/allans raffle car?sort=4&page=1
Couple of others there if you want a nosey, not used the account for ages

 

[richw]

Wow that's some impressive repairs to tricky welding areas. One concern I have is that I have hired a single garage to do all the repairs in. Is it possible to replace sills in such a small space, and if so, how high do I need to get the car in order to work on them? Part of getting the car is so that I can learn to weld, so I'm not too fussed that plenty of welding is needed.
Thanks for the links, very helpful.

 

[Haz]

They're all the same after a while haha.
Yes, scoff built his rwd in a similar space but I couldn't. it can be tight regards light, sparks and splatter. Personally I'd roll it out each time, do a bit, tidy and weather proof with brush on red oxide. Just a day is enough for surface rust to come back making more work. Practice welding on the sections you plan to remove as it's the same metal then too.
Half the battle is a decent mask, welder (150amp), .6 wire and argon mix gas.
Do have different fire extinguishers and a mate to watch for fires on the other side of what your doing, for starters at least, esp round the fuel tank. I see there's no filler neck so it may be open

 

[richw]

Finished taking off the body kit and inspecting visible bits for rust. In order of priority:

1. Sills are pretty seriously rusted. Inners and outers need replacing.
2. Jacking points all need replacing.
3. Floor needs patching, especially near sills.
4. Someone has done a hideous repair to the rear left arch. Looks like they had to cut a section out to get access to the inner arch and replaced it pretty badly. Any suggestions what this repair might be in aid of? See pic below.
5. Most of the main panels seem sound except a bit of rust around the edge of the arches. I'm tempted to weld in patches as these bits will be covered by bodykit as far as I can see.


Another GTT has appeared locally (White, original apart from a respray and exhaust/bumper) so I'm keen to get mine on the road.

Also I'm looking at MIG welders and wondered if a Clarke Pro 90 or Pro 100 mk2 is up to all the tasks I may have to do?

Cheers,

Rich

 

[DaveL485]

View attachment 8912 View attachment 8913 View attachment 8914 View attachment 8915 View attachment 8916 View attachment 8917 View attachment 8918 View attachment 8919 View attachment 8920 View attachment 8921 Finished taking off the body kit and inspecting visible bits for rust. In order of priority:

1. Sills are pretty seriously rusted. Inners and outers need replacing.
2. Jacking points all need replacing.
3. Floor needs patching, especially near sills.
4. Someone has done a hideous repair to the rear left arch. Looks like they had to cut a section out to get access to the inner arch and replaced it pretty badly. Any suggestions what this repair might be in aid of? See pic below.
5. Most of the main panels seem sound except a bit of rust around the edge of the arches. I'm tempted to weld in patches as these bits will be covered by bodykit as far as I can see.


Another GTT has appeared locally (White, original apart from a respray and exhaust/bumper) so I'm keen to get mine on the road.

Also I'm looking at MIG welders and wondered if a Clarke Pro 90 or Pro 100 mk2 is up to all the tasks I may have to do?

Cheers,

Rich

I use a Clarke welder, you'll need lots of practice as welding on the piss thin french metal is really tricky!

 

[richw]

I use a Clarke welder, you'll need lots of practice as welding on the piss thin french metal is really tricky!

Hi Dave, What model are you using? Have you done both chassis/subframe and bodywork with it?

Cheers, Rich

 

[DaveL485]

Hi Dave, What model are you using? Have you done both chassis/subframe and bodywork with it?

Cheers, Rich

Mine is an older version of the one below.

It's great for chassis rails and subframes and the like but stuff like sill material, inner wings and the like is tricky. It's tough not to blow holes in it all the time.

 

[DaveL485]

See my build thread on page 10 for a bit of welding on wiper arms
https://turborenault.co.uk/t28/page-10
It's under the scuttle so I didnt bother making it super pretty but you get the idea. This is with .6 wire with 1-MAX setting.

 

[richw]

Hi All,

Nice little wiper repair thread Dave. I may have to go through that at some point in the future. My car has had the centre wiper conversion and there are rust bubbles around it. Hoping the rest of the screen surround is solid thanks to the extra pink layer.

I've had a quote of nearly £4000 to get the bare shell totally refinished after welding. This seems pretty high. Car was originally silver so I'm tempted to go back to that, although I do feel I may be losing some of the fun of having an obnoxious colour

If I wanted to spray engine bay and inside of the car myself, are there spray cans available in the correct colour?

The more I look at the engine, the more worried I am that it is very very worn out. Car has something like 140,000 on the clock and I don't fancy the chances of avoiding a major engine expense if I re-use the current one. How much are recently-refurbished or low-milage original engines going for? I'll probably stick fairly close to original spec, but re-use the after-market intercooler (GT tuning?) and seeing as the turbo is in bits, I may go with a hybrid turbo (T25/T2) as top speeds in Cornwall are low and tonnes of top-end power is fairly redundant. Then it's a case of using sensible fuelling mods to feed the system optimally.

Cheers for responses so far,

Rich

 

[richw]

What does the "repair to the left inner rear arch look like it could be for? What "injury" does this hint at? See pic below

 

[richw]

 

[DaveL485]

Maybe that was cut out for an ICE install or something? Not sure why that would be chopped out and welded back in, it's not a rust point inside the boot there is it?

 

[gtmatt]

when I bought my car ,it was a non runner same as you loads of rust spent around £9000 getting it up to where it is now,i rebuilt the engine so was not to arsed if it did not run or not ,when I stripped it the engine was fine it had done 135,000

good luck

https://turborenault.co.uk/t171/page-3#post-374649

that's mine above

 

[Norwich Nick]

Looks like someone took to it with a hammer for some reason, Dave might be right. They've obviously cut it out to reshape it as I can see no other obvious reason.

Is the 4K quote including strip, repair and prep or just to apply paint? Wouldn't be far out if so, they'd probably bare metal it just to guarantee that previous bad workmanship doesn't turn up to give them a bad name after they've worked on it.

Any good paint supplier will be able to custom mix paint and put it in spray cans so no worries there. You could use the same people to supply the paint for the outside and the match will be bang on as they'd have the exact codes

 

[richw]

Cheers for responses.
The only other reason I can think of cutting that piece out is so that a repair to the arch could be welded? I'll check inside the arch..

I'm going to continue taking bits off while I wait for the welder to arrive. Probably removing the rest of the interior tomorrow and the front wings.

1. Am I right in thinking that after the torx screws along the top edge of each wing I basically have to cut the seem sealer? Any tips on wing-removal welcome.

3. Is there a smart way to get the roof lining off in a way that means I can refit it later?

2. Keen now to get the car down to a bare shell as fast as possible, get the engine out, then get everything blasted to bare metal so I can see any hidden bits of rust. Got a place locally that will blast for £400. Is that reasonable?

4. Then weld, weld, weld, making sure to get my protective coatings applied correctly so that the whole thing can be resprayed.

Cheers for the tip about spray cans Tnt nick, is that a really expensive way of doing it? How much paint for the bay/interior? ANy idea of cost or where to buy? Leaning towards Raider Blue with matching alloys just now.... Or the original silver with black alloys..with polished silver rims

Trying to find a digital haynes manual. Got the hard copy but my eyesight isn't great so something digital I can blow up and print for paricular bits would be handy.

I'd really appreciate tips on the main issues of stripping the shell of parts, getting it blasted, and major jobs like sill-replacement. Can't find a step-by-step guide to sills with pics so If anyone knows of one drifting round online, I'd be well chuffed.

Cheers! Rich

 

[Norwich Nick]

Not sure on costs tbh, I think it is fairly reasonable though. Again not sure how much you'd need but I did freshen up my bay with one can.

Front wings have a pop rivet on to the sill and on/by the bumper mount. There is also a 10mm bolt under the arch liner towards the back between the door hinges. You will need to cut seam sealer, it runs along the top and down along the front supports behind the wing.

 

[richw]

Cheers for the tips Nick, I think the rivet has gone on both wings. Hopefully there is enough metal on the wings to save them for re-use. Is it best to attach sills with another rivet when I replace the sills or is welding them on a better plan?

Does anyone know if outer sills are seem-welded to the inners, or just plug welds? I want to make the join totally impermeable to water one way or another.

Rich

 

[Norwich Nick]

Sills are spot welded to inners. Think mot regs now state repair panels must be as oe or fully seam welded, pop rivets would be a big no unfortunately. That said I'd plug weld the lower edge but before welding treat the areas between the welds to an anti rust treatment and a weld through primer in the welding area. Someone on here recommend a dintrinol product to use within the sills to protect as it actually gets between the seams unlike wax oil. On the outer seam a good covering in anti rust, seam sealer and stone chip should suffice.

Oh and wings I'd pop rivet just for ease