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5 GT Turbo Phatty-The Return!

Yesterday and today I managed to make a two piece 3" downpipe from the turbo outlet to the 2.5" side exit exhaust.
My welding isn't pretty at the best of times but its worse than normal due to my 20 year old Snap On welder getting close to its death.
This is why there are no pics.
I also primed and painted the slam panel blue and the rad and cross member black.
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Well the wheels took longer than expected as when Max was polishing up the outer rims the chrome started to come off the alloy.
He then had to blast it all off and paint the lot.
Rebuilding the wheels with tiger seal and 120 new bolts and lock-nuts was tedious to say the least. I even got the Mrs to help hold the spanner on the back so I could buzz gun the bolts up.
Tyres were fitted by a mate and I have yet to fit them to the car as I thought it better to leave on the crappy 16s until it actually goes out on the road.
If the 205/50/15s rub on the front then I will just drop back to 195s and keep the extra 2 as spares for the rear.

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I took the week before FCS off to try and finish the car.
Work was long days and frustrations galore but loads was done.
Bonnet was DA'd back, primed and painted.
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Both replacement doors were again DA'd, Primed and Painted.

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Replacement rear trim panel as one on the car had mangled thread holes and was loose.
Also in this pic is the Monte Carlo grill which was repaired, primed and painted before fitting to the car and a few minor repairs to bumper etc were also done.
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In between waiting for the compressor to charge up the air for the DA which was being done outside, I was doing the painting on other parts inside the garage. All done with limited patience and rattle cans for a decent 10ft paint job. Just don't look too closely especially if you are a perfectionist. ;)
 
Lots of other little jobs have been completed like fitting the harness bar to the roll cage and painting it before fitting the harnesses properly, bleeding the brakes once I had got the springs clips I needed, wiring jobs which included having to run new cables for the RHR brake light and Indicator as well as replacing the earth, replacing the throttle body as the cable slot on the wheel was broken, finalising the coolant pipe run around the exhaust and downpipe, fitting the doors and wing mirrors as well as getting it to idle better.

All this culminated in a lovely MOT pass certificate on the Friday morning before FCS, albeit with the 16's fitted as the Split Rims were still away at the time. :)

Still got loads of work to do especially in the tuning side of things as it dies at every junction at the moment and brakes need bedding in properly. I tried to take it steady on the way to the MOT station but it decided to come on boost a bit which only hinted at the things to come but it left me with a great big smile on my fat face!!! :bp:
 
Yes Andy, doesn't feel like a chore but my back and shoulder are fecked so not thanking me for the long days that were required to get it to this point.
I didn't take it to FCS in the end as didn't have insurance in place and didn't want to risk it.
Trying to to sort out a few niggles and then its time to get some miles on the clock before going to Scoff for full mapping.
Got lots more still to do in general like fitting the new Gaz coilovers and adjustable top mounts when the shocks arrive before full geo setup.
 
Yes Andy, doesn't feel like a chore but my back and shoulder are fecked so not thanking me for the long days that were required to get it to this point.
I didn't take it to FCS in the end as didn't have insurance in place and didn't want to risk it.
Trying to to sort out a few niggles and then its time to get some miles on the clock before going to Scoff for full mapping.
Got lots more still to do in general like fitting the new Gaz coilovers and adjustable top mounts when the shocks arrive before full geo setup.
Bring it to Blyton , steady run out a fair few miles for you .
 
I'm not sure if I can go to Blyton as its a "Kids weekend" and I just swapped my last one for FCS. lol!
Its a 500 mile round trip if I do so would not like to drive it there as I have done no local miles to see if there are any problems going to arise. Its far too noisy to go on a track I think with the 2.5" Sidey so a bit of a pointless trip unless I get a chance to do some miles this week.
 
Time for another update. Decided to put Gaz coilovers on the front to match the rears and add camber and castor adjustable top mounts.
So out with the old Koni Adjustable shocks and Apex Springs.....

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Compared with the new.

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I think I may need to change the springs and maybe add helpers but will suck it and see for now.

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Also fitted the newly refurbished wheels.
So again, out with the old temporary wheels...

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and in with the new (ish).

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Not had a chance to drive it yet as today is my anniversary so didn't want to spend all day on it. Currently running loads of camber. Looks like I have phase 1 top mounts on phase 2 shocks but not moved the adjusters yet.

Need to Insure and tax it and start clocking up some miles.
 
Did you not bother with bearings on top of the spring @Brucieboy ?? i think they would need them for when the strut turns. Im considering fitting these top mounts on the van, i think you could swing them so far but you will still have a fair bit of negative camber compared to stock.
 
The strut top has a spherical bearing in it and is machined to fit directly on the 2.25"springs. The bearing is replaceable as it will obviously wear out quicker than the big std one. There is a good amount of adjustment and I want "some" negative camber. :grin.gif:
 
Surely the spring will twang round though without a bearing on top of the spring as the blue alloy housing that the bearing in is fixed solid? Its hard to see in the pics to be honest. I thought the spherical bearing just allows the damper shaft to turn. My avo shocks have a top spring cup with a bearing in for this reason.
 
I think the spherical bearing is there to allow for the fact that the steering axis does not coincide with the damper axis. So as the steering is turned the angle of the damper shaft relative to the top mount changes. This also happens whenever the suspension moves. The spherical bearing gives this compliance, it's not to allow anything to turn. You still need an axial bearing in there for that.
 
Looking good Bruce.

I like the look of those adjustable top mounts, might have to try those one day. Loving the bonnet too, is that an integrale bonnet ?
 
Thanks Mark. Yes it's an Integrale style bonnet. There are a couple of designs knocking about but this one has the vent towards the back as opposed to the front.
 
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