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my 21 restoration project

They are notorious for shocking hand brake efficiency. I don't know how Renault got the car certified over here tbh

I've spend many an hour taking the rear braking system apart, cleaning, greasing, exercising, lubing and swearing just to get the hand brake working

My 2wd would handbrake turn on wet tarmac with people in the back. In fact IIRC I did it with a couple of club members in once or twice.

Obviously you're not doing it right.

Stacy said the same to me too, actually.....dont think she was talking about handbrakes though.
 
Surely the wet would reduce grip and the extra weight of passengers in the rear would help the tail spin round easier so not really a comparison? Is there not a load bias valve like on gtt's which never seems to work properly unless adjusted to full load? I did away with it on my current 5.
 
load bias valve doesnt have any effect on the hand brake.

in the end on my quadra I took the cables off stuck them in a drill and worked moly grease into them until it came out the other end. took ages mind.
took the rear calipers apart, cleaned and regreased the pivot arms and adjusted the slack up.

its a fine adjustment, little too much and they bind, not quite enough and the efficiency is poo.

atleast they dont put it on a roller when they test the quadra hand brake, if it holds on a small slope outside the mot station then its good enough
 
load bias valve doesnt have any effect on the hand brake.

in the end on my quadra I took the cables off stuck them in a drill and worked moly grease into them until it came out the other end. took ages mind.
took the rear calipers apart, cleaned and regreased the pivot arms and adjusted the slack up.

its a fine adjustment, little too much and they bind, not quite enough and the efficiency is poo.

atleast they dont put it on a roller when they test the quadra hand brake, if it holds on a small slope outside the mot station then its good enough

Not any more. They have a thing that looks like a limpet mine for road testing.
 
Just got back from the MOT and the old girl passed! Lubing and a little adjustment did the trick!! Just gota wait till the 1st to tax it. Can't wait, good times lol
 
I taxed her last nite and want for a blast, oh how I've missed it haha. Little problem this morning tho :-/ boot ain't opening on the central locking nor via the key!!! Any idea's any1??? I can climb through the rear seat and unlock it but that ain't really ideal.
 
It operates on rods, I bet the rod has dropped off the linkage or the little plastic retainer has given up, unless the lock is seized (common Ph2 but not 1) and the solenoid is goosed as well.
 
Il have to climb through and open it and have a poke around. Am I correct in thinking if the solenoid was fecked it wouldnt effect opening it with the key.
 
After having the 21 on road for a month and enjoying every second of it, I found the turbo oil feed pipe to be leaking alittle. So last week pulled if off and had a replacement made but as I nipped it back up its cracked the block at the base of the thread!!!! So nearly smashed the whole motor up with the club hammer.

Chemical metal bodge seemed to have sorted it (or so I thought till today).

I have had a little luck in finding a replacement in the form of a 70k engine from 1st call Renault (old Skool Renault breakers close to me) and since a friends quite friendly with the owner we striked a handsome deal. Only prob being I currently own ?0 and have no time to swap it.

Pretty sick of faffing around with this motor now :-/
 
Chemical metal bodge seemed to have sorted it (or so I thought till today).

That old cookie eh. Take the oil feed for the turbo from the point further along the block, there's a plug in the oil gallery with an allen fitting in it, on the same level as the Turbo Oil Feed hole, after the Oil pressure switch and sender.
Block off the original oil feed hole. See below, use a couple of threaded bits (Rabson sourced these for me IIRC) and screw into what good thread there is. Careful not to drop any Chemical Metal into the oil gallery.

NOTE: Do not use normal Chemical metal (ie, the Plastic Padding stuff in the yellow box). It's not got the tolerance you need. Use JB Weld.

www.repairproducts.co.uk_userimages_jbweld_lrg.webp

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_Photo_0018.webp

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_33.webp

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_DSCF2014Medium.webp

i17.photobucket.com_albums_b79_DaveL485_DSCF2012Medium.webp

I believe the owner of this car lurks around these parts still, and as far as I know this repair is still as good as the day it was actioned (considering he hasn't come back to beat me up and demand a block change lol)
 
....also, it must be CLEAN. I don't mean wipe-with-rag clean, I mean eat-your-dinner-off-it clean. All the threads, around it, the whole lot. I used brake cleaner, a toothbrush and cotton buds dipped in brake cleaner I think. No oil, no grit, no residue. When you think it's that clean, clean it again. Twice.
 
So should I clean it? Lol

Cheers Dave, thanks for the info. I shall have a bash before I weigh it in. Il have to put it all together now as I striped it in rage ha
 
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