Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)

[Brigsy]

Link me up to that wrinkle paint matey?

Vht wrinkle black same as Andy posted mate. Use a heatgun on it to dry for mega wrinkles.

When She says...
What's that smell.
you say....
what smell.
Then when She says...
That funny awful smell.
you say.....
I can't smell anything.
keep calm and keep denying, you'll be fine.

Ive cooked some mackerel earlier so thats covered the smell up nicely

Quick Question, the Loctite 518 - Is that decent enough to seal up the breather cover plate in your experience? I'm starting to clean up my engine, and as typical the Breather plates weaping along with the Dephaser Solenoid Seal (Got a replacement for that)

518 is fine for the breather plate, its what Renault used originally.

There is also a gasket you can get from ren, its around £27 from memory. It doesnt match the plate underneath, but you can run it no issues. Ren fitted it to 265/275.

 

[Ian_R]

Vht wrinkle black same as Andy posted mate. Use a heatgun on it to dry for mega wrinkles.

Ive cooked some mackerel earlier so thats covered the smell up nicely

518 is fine for the breather plate, its what Renault used originally.

There is also a gasket you can get from ren, its around £27 from memory. It doesnt match the plate underneath, but you can run it no issues. Ren fitted it to 265/275.

Cheers buddy, yeah know you can get a gasket for them, but thought lets give the loctite a bash, plus Renault don't have the gasket in stock at the minute

 

[Brigsy]

Cheers buddy, yeah know you can get a gasket for them, but thought lets give the loctite a bash, plus Renault don't have the gasket in stock at the minute

Loctite be fine mate, its a resin so goes off well. I used the gasket on my old engine, but couldnt be arsed using it this time so just sealed it as per oem.

 

[Brigsy]

Small update

Snuck a quick hour in today. Pulled 250 inlet off old engine, and its not a straight fit on the 197 head. Basically, the cam sensor on 250 is in the cam cover, and on 197 its lower down in the head so the inlet fouls it.

Out comes the grinder to add clearance, not ideal but im sure itll be reet, still plenty of webbing above the runner. Tested up fits OK.

Painted up with vht aluminium paint. Considered aquablasting, but be a nightmare to clean the inside and times cracking on, and i want it up and running soon.

Also done alternator bracket.

Finish looks nice and fresh.


Thanks for reading!!

 

[Moggy]

We don’t read! We look at pictures and drool

 

[Brigsy]

Updates

Had an hour spare here and there over the last couple of days, so got a bit more done

250 Inlet and fuel rail fitted




Dipstick tube needed a spacer to clear 197 cam sensor

Exhaust manifold and new gasket fitted, and oil feed/return pipes. Cam cover and top mount fitted and torqued.


Throttle body painted and fitted. I considered making a more aesthetically pleasing throttle adaptor but cant hardly see it when fitted, so function over form


If weather plays ball and no little issues arise, this should be in and running this weekend.

Thanks for reading!!

 

[Mark_L]

How do you think the 197 inlet would fit the 225 head? Considering fitting the inlet to it to make it look oem and modifying everything else to suit, using the 225 T/B for ease. Not compared them myself.

 

[Brigsy]

How do you think the 197 inlet would fit the 225 head? Considering fitting the inlet to it to make it look oem and modifying everything else to suit, using the 225 T/B for ease. Not compared them myself.

Port match would be miles off, 225 is a lot smaller however it would work. Use 197 head if you want the oem look, it flows miles better too.

 

[Mark_L]

Port match would be miles off, 225 is a lot smaller however it would work. Use 197 head if you want the oem look, it flows miles better too.

Have a 197 head but keeping that for the 5. Would be a big step down I’m guessing with out a bit of porting..

 

[Steve Swan]

Can I ask a couple of dumb questions ?? I guess the atmo heads are better finished than the turbo ones? Are the Comp ratios done by piston height. Rods and pistons being the variables in the different versions. Does this mean that atmo bits are a quick win for a bit more power on a turbo? Only issue I could see would be heat management on the Ex. Valves need to widen the seat to transfer heat faster perhaps.

 

[Brigsy]

Have a 197 head but keeping that for the 5. Would be a big step down I’m guessing with out a bit of porting..

Id just stick with 225 inlet on 225 head. Works and no messing about for little gain.

Can I ask a couple of dumb questions ?? I guess the atmo heads are better finished than the turbo ones? Are the Comp ratios done by piston height. Rods and pistons being the variables in the different versions. Does this mean that atmo bits are a quick win for a bit more power on a turbo? Only issue I could see would be heat management on the Ex. Valves need to widen the seat to transfer heat faster perhaps.

Atmo heads are indeed a better finish in the inlet ports and larger than the 250 head. The 250 has rough cast inlet ports where the 197 is a cnc machined finish. Exhaust ports look very similar on both heads.

Ive been told by a few people that the 197 head is the best flowing out of the box for the f4r, so its a fairly quick win.

Comp ratio is done by piston height. I cc'd the 197 head for reference when mine was faced, and it was almost the same volume as turbo. Workshop maunal lists the same cc volume for 197/250 head so id assume if mine was standard height it would be identical.

Interestingly, valves are the same size on clio 172/182, megane 225 and clio 197. Meg 3 rs has different valves, same size but thicker stem. Ive changed mine for inconel exhaust valves and one piece inlet valves. I have the oversized inconel supertech in my clio trophy turbo, not seen if any gains yet as not wound up, but seemed to be responding very well to boost increases.

 

[Brigsy]

Quick hour again today

Turbo on, decat on and torqued. Oil feed/return fitted and torqued.


Mocked up boost hose. Doesnt look too bad!




Ill crack on with this and get crank seal in and clutch/dmf once off stand, get box back on and see if i can get it in the hole this weekend.

Thanks for reading!!

 

[Adey]

looks flipping fantastic that jon, good work looking forward to how it performs.

 

[Aldo]

Look superb! Looking forward to seeing what it makes on the rollers.

 

[Brigsy]

looks flipping fantastic that jon, good work looking forward to how it performs.

Look superb! Looking forward to seeing what it makes on the rollers.

Cheers all! Fingers crossed it goes as well as the old engine.

 

[Brigsy]

Weekend update

Engine not in sadly as spent all day Saturday fixing the daily so not as much progress made as planned. Had a couple of hours spare Sunday afternoon, so got a bit more done.

The alternator and ac pump were looking well weathered and would have let the side down, so masked them up and painted with vht aluminium paint.

Also removed modine from old engine, and flushed it/cleaned it up and also lightly painted with vht. Turbo heatshield received the same treatment. New aux belt/tensioner fitted, all bits torqued to spec.






Ive removed the rts twin friction clutch and dmf from the old engine to inspect, and luckily there is minimal wear to it so its simply reset the self adjusting pressure plate and refit.

Thanks for reading!!

 

[Steve Swan]

Good to see someone has been doing something worthwhile this weekend

 

[Mark_L]

Looks really good mate.

I keep thinking I wish I’d have kept the aircon on mine. At least it’s just the pipe work and condenser I’d have to replace as the pump is still there blanked off.

 

[Brigsy]

Cheers all. Hopefully see it started up very soon.

I plan on getting the ac plumbed in on this at some point soon. Just need a custom pipe making up from pump to condenser.

 

[Brigsy]

Spare hour today.

Reset self adjusting mech on the clutch. Ive done this in my press before, but as the trophy is in the way and couldnt be arsed moving it, done it with a puller instead. The self adjusting mech had barely moved but didnt want to risk any issues.

Simply compress the pressure plate, push small springs round until fully compressed, hold whilst undoing the puller and it locks in place. The proper tool to do it is fairly expensive even for a chinese knock off so this works great for a one off.

Pressure plate springs on full adjustment for reference in this pic.


Clutch still lools good.

Next job was to get the engine off the stand so could fit the crank seal. Dug out Mot. 991 for the job.

Lubed up and sent home to the correct depth.


Dmf fitted, used another renault flywheel locking tool i had lying about, worked spot on.

Dmf fitted and torqued. Pressure plate drawn on square so mechanism stays set (note springs fully compressed), bolts torqued.

Engine mount and bolts given a bit of a tart up as were looking rough.


Gearbox and other associated bits back on tomorrow. See how weather plays as its supposed to turn bad.

Thanks for reading!!