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Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)
- Thread starter Brigsy
- Start date
Sheryl_O
Active Member
Why do I feel like your trying to land him in the shit
he won't sell you the van if you cause him to get agro from the wife 
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Back on with project Mangoo this weekend
First job on Sat was to refit the fuel tank and make some an-6 fuel lines up. Pretty boring and got a load of shite in my eyes as expected, did not take many pics. Only plus side was i bought some proper hose shears which cut the braided pipe like a hot knife through butter, which made the job acceptable to do.
Torques fitting to convert to an pipe, fits nice on oem sender outlet.
Made a short line from sender to tank. This was to make tank fitting and removal easy in the future. The an 90deg bend clips onto the tank which makes a neat job.
Pulled the oily ply lining ooutand binned. Floor is quite clean for a used van, did consider cutting an access hole for fuel sender but its dual skinned at that point so too much hassle.
Added the fuel pump wiring, put some tesco 99 in the tank and hotwired the fuel pump to leak check. No leaks so time to attempt fire first fire up.
Connected fuel pump wiring up, cracked ignition on and no fuel pump prime. Determined to attempt a start, hotwired the pump. Cranked over, no attempt to fire.
Stuck clip on for diagnostics and df061/062 present , i could smell fuel so knew the injectors were working, but no spark. Checked tdc was working as engine was seeing rpm.
At this point i was thinking poss immobiliser issues? Went and sat down and had a cuppa, looked through the s3000 pdf to see why no spark.
At this point i figured the diesel upc was set up different to suit compared to petrol. Megane rs upc is n4 and is basically identical looking to Kangoo n2, checked wiring and it all married up so went out and fitted it which was plug and play.
Cracked ignition on and fuel pump primes, winner. Goes to crank engine and it wont fecking crank! No fault codes stored so left it at that and done some more digging through the workshop manual.
Sunday morning i came out with a fresh head and plugged clip back on. Done a bit of digging through the upc live data and it says gearstick not in neutral. I knew exactly what the issue was, the sensor was not connected to the megane engine loom.
Plugged in the gear selector sensor and attempted to start. Fires straight up but misfiring, good to see it started but not good to see heavy misfire.
Start off by changing pencil coils to spare set. No change. Diagnostics, no faults stored, its either duff injectors or compression loss.
Fired the engine up and removed injector plugs one at a time. No change to misfire on cylinder 1 or cylinder 3, running on 2 cylinders!! I was a little worried about this as fearing ecu issues with 2 injectors not working. Pulled a spark plug on cylinder with non working injector to confirm - bone dry.
Next step i pulled fuel rail off and held it over blue paper towel whilst cranking the engine to fire the injectors. This proved only 2 injectors were working. To confirm faulty injectors or ecu fault, i changed the plugs from the working injectors to the non working ones, and they did not work so - diagnosis stuck injectors.
No spare 630cc injectors in stock, so give the non working injectors a gentle tap with the spanner, nothing to lose. This is an oldskool/pikey way of getting injectors to fire when stuck. More cranking to test and they started working after a couple of attempts.
Refitted fuel rail and attempts a start again with fingers crossed. Cranks/fires straight up on all 4 cylinders and settles down to 800rpm idle.
So loud with no exhaust system!!
With that milestone reached, let it warm up a bit and checked for leaks, no oil leaks, slight coolant leak which only required a jubilee clip nipping up. Refitted battery tray, upc covers etc. Deleted the gearbox selector switch, cut plug off and joined the wires together and hidden in the loom.
Done some flight checks, brakes work, clutch and gears work, drove it to the end of the drive and back, seemed ok in first gear. First time its moved under its own steam since purchase.
Coolant has gone a bit rusty as block had a bit of shite in it. Will run it through a few heat cycles and flush out.
So next job is to get it booked in for custom exhaust system, get some insurance on it, new windscreen as cracked, oil/coolant change, wipers etc then mot and road test, get a few miles on it to see if any issues and booked in for mapping.
Thanks for reading!!
First job on Sat was to refit the fuel tank and make some an-6 fuel lines up. Pretty boring and got a load of shite in my eyes as expected, did not take many pics. Only plus side was i bought some proper hose shears which cut the braided pipe like a hot knife through butter, which made the job acceptable to do.
Torques fitting to convert to an pipe, fits nice on oem sender outlet.
Made a short line from sender to tank. This was to make tank fitting and removal easy in the future. The an 90deg bend clips onto the tank which makes a neat job.
Pulled the oily ply lining ooutand binned. Floor is quite clean for a used van, did consider cutting an access hole for fuel sender but its dual skinned at that point so too much hassle.
Added the fuel pump wiring, put some tesco 99 in the tank and hotwired the fuel pump to leak check. No leaks so time to attempt fire first fire up.
Connected fuel pump wiring up, cracked ignition on and no fuel pump prime. Determined to attempt a start, hotwired the pump. Cranked over, no attempt to fire.
Stuck clip on for diagnostics and df061/062 present , i could smell fuel so knew the injectors were working, but no spark. Checked tdc was working as engine was seeing rpm.
At this point i was thinking poss immobiliser issues? Went and sat down and had a cuppa, looked through the s3000 pdf to see why no spark.
At this point i figured the diesel upc was set up different to suit compared to petrol. Megane rs upc is n4 and is basically identical looking to Kangoo n2, checked wiring and it all married up so went out and fitted it which was plug and play.
Cracked ignition on and fuel pump primes, winner. Goes to crank engine and it wont fecking crank! No fault codes stored so left it at that and done some more digging through the workshop manual.
Sunday morning i came out with a fresh head and plugged clip back on. Done a bit of digging through the upc live data and it says gearstick not in neutral. I knew exactly what the issue was, the sensor was not connected to the megane engine loom.
Plugged in the gear selector sensor and attempted to start. Fires straight up but misfiring, good to see it started but not good to see heavy misfire.
Start off by changing pencil coils to spare set. No change. Diagnostics, no faults stored, its either duff injectors or compression loss.
Fired the engine up and removed injector plugs one at a time. No change to misfire on cylinder 1 or cylinder 3, running on 2 cylinders!! I was a little worried about this as fearing ecu issues with 2 injectors not working. Pulled a spark plug on cylinder with non working injector to confirm - bone dry.
Next step i pulled fuel rail off and held it over blue paper towel whilst cranking the engine to fire the injectors. This proved only 2 injectors were working. To confirm faulty injectors or ecu fault, i changed the plugs from the working injectors to the non working ones, and they did not work so - diagnosis stuck injectors.
No spare 630cc injectors in stock, so give the non working injectors a gentle tap with the spanner, nothing to lose. This is an oldskool/pikey way of getting injectors to fire when stuck. More cranking to test and they started working after a couple of attempts.
Refitted fuel rail and attempts a start again with fingers crossed. Cranks/fires straight up on all 4 cylinders and settles down to 800rpm idle.
So loud with no exhaust system!!
With that milestone reached, let it warm up a bit and checked for leaks, no oil leaks, slight coolant leak which only required a jubilee clip nipping up. Refitted battery tray, upc covers etc. Deleted the gearbox selector switch, cut plug off and joined the wires together and hidden in the loom.
Done some flight checks, brakes work, clutch and gears work, drove it to the end of the drive and back, seemed ok in first gear. First time its moved under its own steam since purchase.
Coolant has gone a bit rusty as block had a bit of shite in it. Will run it through a few heat cycles and flush out.
So next job is to get it booked in for custom exhaust system, get some insurance on it, new windscreen as cracked, oil/coolant change, wipers etc then mot and road test, get a few miles on it to see if any issues and booked in for mapping.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Cheers mate its come together steady. It is ridiculously loud with just decat pipe. Hoping one decent sized single silencer will be adequate with 3" system.
Cheers mate. Loads of room for 3" pipe on this one
Last edited:
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Updates
Fitted new flow matched 630cc injectors from Efiparts. Reset the ecu/throttle adaptives with clip, stuck another 9ltrs of fuel in & fired it up. Runs good, nice steady idle so was well worth spending the money on fresh injectors.
With that result decided a quick test drive was needed to see how/if it all works.
Maiden voyage pic at the front of the drive
Can report that it works and drives good. Everything as per oem works and no warning lights, 197 speedo works and all gauges working. Gears and clutch ok, nothing untoward really, drives like a megane. Another milestone achieved.
Short vid and a little bit of boost
Noticed drivers outer cv was clicking a bit on lock, i half expected this as the driveshafts were made up with dci 175 inner cv/shaft & old r26 outer cv's i had lying about on an old set of driveshafts that @andybond give me years ago.
Brake pedal travel was a bit long but working OK, thats resolved now as bled again with clip actuating the abs module and some more air came out, brake pedal feels good now.
With that positive result, dug out the compomotives and fitted them, with new centre caps. Ive fitted new wheel bolts now, not shown in the pic as they arrived this week. Removed the remains of the compomotive stickers, they look fairly clean considering have been on a track car previously.
Still tempted to change the colour to anthracite, can anybody do a quick photoshop?
Need to get the rear end rideheight down. Ive measured the arch to tyre gap and its 100mm, i reckon its stock height on the Kangoo2 H&R springs(n)
Been sniffing around for alternative springs, and i reckon clio 197 rears will go, as same pigtail top and bottom. Been looking at 197 H&R rears, could do with a measurement on compressed length first though. Typically my mates have all had 197s recently and sold them so working on that.
Current rear setup, springs compressed are 250mm. I believe clio 197 lowered rears are around 200mm but need to confirm, that could work good if so, and shorter shocks are easy to order from gaz.
Interestingly, could shim the stub axles easy, i reckon clio3/meg3 will prob work.
Also check out this large cast iron ballast bolted to both sides of the rear chassis rail, apparantly some Kangoos have it, and some dont. Its going as soon as i find a suitable spring, as taking it out now might raise the rear more :LOL:
Its booked in for custom 3" exhaust on 27th of this month, insurance is sorted at £325 fully comp/everything declared. Logbook has been sent off to Dvla with a cover letter to get the fuel type and cc changed, hopefully wont take ages.
Cant wait to get some proper miles on it. Thanks for reading!!
Fitted new flow matched 630cc injectors from Efiparts. Reset the ecu/throttle adaptives with clip, stuck another 9ltrs of fuel in & fired it up. Runs good, nice steady idle so was well worth spending the money on fresh injectors.
With that result decided a quick test drive was needed to see how/if it all works.
Maiden voyage pic at the front of the drive
Can report that it works and drives good. Everything as per oem works and no warning lights, 197 speedo works and all gauges working. Gears and clutch ok, nothing untoward really, drives like a megane. Another milestone achieved.
Short vid and a little bit of boost
Noticed drivers outer cv was clicking a bit on lock, i half expected this as the driveshafts were made up with dci 175 inner cv/shaft & old r26 outer cv's i had lying about on an old set of driveshafts that @andybond give me years ago.
Brake pedal travel was a bit long but working OK, thats resolved now as bled again with clip actuating the abs module and some more air came out, brake pedal feels good now.
With that positive result, dug out the compomotives and fitted them, with new centre caps. Ive fitted new wheel bolts now, not shown in the pic as they arrived this week. Removed the remains of the compomotive stickers, they look fairly clean considering have been on a track car previously.
Still tempted to change the colour to anthracite, can anybody do a quick photoshop?
Need to get the rear end rideheight down. Ive measured the arch to tyre gap and its 100mm, i reckon its stock height on the Kangoo2 H&R springs(n)
Been sniffing around for alternative springs, and i reckon clio 197 rears will go, as same pigtail top and bottom. Been looking at 197 H&R rears, could do with a measurement on compressed length first though. Typically my mates have all had 197s recently and sold them so working on that.
Current rear setup, springs compressed are 250mm. I believe clio 197 lowered rears are around 200mm but need to confirm, that could work good if so, and shorter shocks are easy to order from gaz.
Interestingly, could shim the stub axles easy, i reckon clio3/meg3 will prob work.
Also check out this large cast iron ballast bolted to both sides of the rear chassis rail, apparantly some Kangoos have it, and some dont. Its going as soon as i find a suitable spring, as taking it out now might raise the rear more :LOL:
Its booked in for custom 3" exhaust on 27th of this month, insurance is sorted at £325 fully comp/everything declared. Logbook has been sent off to Dvla with a cover letter to get the fuel type and cc changed, hopefully wont take ages.
Cant wait to get some proper miles on it. Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Cheers mate. It has gone together fairly easy, with only a couple of bits causing head scratching. In comparison to my Extra van efi conversion, this has been a piece of piss and hardly any custom bits required.
The downside is hours and hours of research to actually find the parts as it uses a couple of obscure bits
if id had all the parts to hand and been fully committed to getting it built, could have had it done in no time. I dont think ive done too bad in 16 months as it was sat there for ages whilst i finished off the Extra, basically done nothing with it for the first 8 month.Its mad to think it was just a random idea about a megane converted Kangoo with recaros and comp mo‘s it, and its actually come together as intended.
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Cheers bud ill be giving them a call
Cheers mate. It has gone together fairly easy, with only a couple of bits causing head scratching. In comparison to my Extra van efi conversion, this has been a piece of piss and hardly any custom bits required.
The downside is hours and hours of research to actually find the parts as it uses a couple of obscure bits
Its mad to think it was just a random idea about a megane converted Kangoo with recaros and comp mo‘s it, and its actually come together as intended.
Was going to say the time involved in finding out what fits is huge, that and the programming side of things takes silly hours of thought and investigation. Bet you could pretty much do it in a weekend now though
Odd ball ideas are the best and when they do come to fruition create some cool cars man, the fact you have 2 vans now is nuts, like modern recreation of your already bonkers van
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Small update, treated it to a Snappy retrimmed 197 steering wheel. Typically airbag wiring is different as non cruise squib so recalibrated airbag ecu, took 2 mins. Will sort it out when i get a cruise squib and wiring fitted.
Job done
Thanks for reading !!
Job done
Thanks for reading !!
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Done a few small jobs yesterday.
Wiring is knacker tight next to battery, its routed ok but have fitted some plastic conduit to protect it furthur and pulled the crappy original pvc tape that was falling off and replaced with cloth loom tape.
Done a couple of small jobs to finish the interior better.
197 clocks had a small gap when fitted. Used a bit of silicone vac hose split down the middle to cover the gap, takes your eye off it. Will revisit with more hose as cut it a bit rough as quick job to see if it would work.
Recaros had no trim to cover the pre tensioner up on the inside, again looked a bit rough. Before i binned the original seats i cut the felt material bit off to see if i could fit it on, slipped it over the buckle and tucked under the seat, job done
Heat wrapped the front section of exhaust with some short bits of dei titanium wrap i had kicking about, clipped and wired in place.
Had to do this as the gear cables are directly above and no heatshielding, theres only a 30mm gap. Ive had to stainless p clip the gear cables tight to the floor to get them away from the exhaust and run some firesleeve over them for protection. Awful job drilling as access was tight but its done now.
Thanks for reading!!
Wiring is knacker tight next to battery, its routed ok but have fitted some plastic conduit to protect it furthur and pulled the crappy original pvc tape that was falling off and replaced with cloth loom tape.
Done a couple of small jobs to finish the interior better.
197 clocks had a small gap when fitted. Used a bit of silicone vac hose split down the middle to cover the gap, takes your eye off it. Will revisit with more hose as cut it a bit rough as quick job to see if it would work.
Recaros had no trim to cover the pre tensioner up on the inside, again looked a bit rough. Before i binned the original seats i cut the felt material bit off to see if i could fit it on, slipped it over the buckle and tucked under the seat, job done
Heat wrapped the front section of exhaust with some short bits of dei titanium wrap i had kicking about, clipped and wired in place.
Had to do this as the gear cables are directly above and no heatshielding, theres only a 30mm gap. Ive had to stainless p clip the gear cables tight to the floor to get them away from the exhaust and run some firesleeve over them for protection. Awful job drilling as access was tight but its done now.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
I have no idea on longevity to be fair mate, Only time will tell i guess. Its got a fighting chance of staying on as stainless lock wired, which used to work OK on previous wrapped downpipes using the old white style heatwrap.
Im not a fan of heatwrap full stop but bit stuck in this situation, ill knock up a nimbus heat shield for the tunnel one day.
