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Kangoo Compact (aka Racevan3)

fair play well done (y) don't forget all the new skills you've just given yourself, could be a nice little earner there and i now know where to go if i need anything similar doing :D
Cheers mate, was nice to learn a bit about oem. With it being a bit different from the norm most people only suggested trying a virgin ecu and hope it would sync or emulator. I bought an emulator as last resort but didnt want the hassle @binge had with his.

I reckon theres a fair chance most combos of renault ecu/uch around the 2010 age can be paired up to run assuming they are using the same immobiliser code, id give it a shot again. If i can grab a cheap 250 ecu and loom im going to try that eventually so can have vvt running.
Yikes, that looks prety horrible. Well done for sticking with it and volunteering to be the TurboRenault Sagem3000 support tech :D :D :D
It was as horrible as you can imagine. Pull ecu open, flash, fit to car, doesnt work, try again, buy more software, search internet for none existant information, start altering hex files myself and so close but no fucking cigar. Got there in the end 😆
 
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Tempted for a battery relocation?
Possibly in the future, but for now will go with it as is to save further work as its basically the same setup as megane with space for a large airfilter behind batt. The back aint going to be used as a van much as the rear load space is useless so plenty of room to relocate there😆

Next step is to install the megane rad and pipework, and large intercooler that inhave in stock. Tons of room up front so it should be quite easy🤞
 
Rear weight should be ok. Think stripped out car interior, and add some more metal to the weight as the panels are larger, so not much different from your average stripped out track car.

It has this big lump of cast iron ballast bolted to the rear floor for some reason. At a guess id say it must be 10-15kg, never seen nothing like it, its not crash protection and unbolts. Tempted to bin it off, will get some pics of it next time its jacked up.
 
Updates

Dose of covid put me on my arse for a couple of weeks so did not make the planned fire up before new year. Have been chipping away though.

Jacked up and tank off as no access hole in floor to get to sender, easy job did not need to drop beam and no exhaust fitted. No fuel pump wiring in diesel loom as expected.
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Grotty as expected
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Jetwashed the outside, and sender cracked off with the tool, was tight but came off ok.
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Suction pump to remove remaining diesel, jetwashed then quick swill with brake cleaner and left to dry. Pic of inside of tank once cleaned.
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Compared meg fuel pump/sender and pretty much identical to kangoo, had to change the orientation of the level sensor and change the float but apart from that straight in. Forgot to take any pics of this but tank is ready to be refitted, have decided to make a removable access panel in the rear floor as i will need to be in the sender soon.

Next job was to fit new rad, large intercooler and boost hoses. Waited for a valeo rad to turn up from overseas and turned out to be the new crap design. Did not cost too much so stuck it on for now and will hunt out a new or good used original design valeo.

Brackets fabbed and intercooler fitted. Intercooler is ebays finest 600x300x75mm core, i opted for this as no point in spending a fortune on a megane airtec to hack it about to fit.

This is a tube/fin design, if charge temps get a bit high will upgrade to bar and plate of the same size. I run the bar and plate on my Extra van and the charge temps are great flogging 2bar of boost through it with a turbo out of its efficiency, so should work ok on this.
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Made the cold side boost hose up. Chopped a meg hard pipe kit in half, swaged the joins with my home made swaging tool, routed and fitted with high grip genuine jubilee clips.
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Its getting tight in there with all the s**t in place, same as megane.
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Filled up coolant with a gallon of type d and bled. Megane 2 header tank fits in the corner like its always meant to have been there, it had the hole already cut out to fit the lower hose in and the stud to bolt it up.
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Bumper test fitted, nice and discreet.
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With all the engine sensors finally connected stuck battery on to see if most of the faults/spanner light/check injection would go off.

Was not holding my breath but cracked the ign on and no warning lights for now.
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Scanned with clip and nothing really showing. Fuel sender/pump not connected so that flags up df085/df445. Df624 is a software issue and as far as im aware most meglio conversions have this stored without issue, but according to the workshop manual it does not trigger the eml/service light so not in a hurry to fix that.
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Checked all live parameters and it looks right, only issue i can see is with accelerator pedal pushed right down its only saying 80%. I guess this is either a throttle body calibration issue or throttle pedal issue. Its still on the Kangoo throttle pedal, which looks identical to megane so might try the megane pedal on and see what it says.

Airfilter is fitted, foam pipercross. As seen its all quite tight in there now. Have left the filter bagged as im sure the scuttle join is leaking slightly so need to sort that.
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Thats us up to date. A fuel line and tank away from a fire up.

Thanks for reading!
 
SKERWEEEEZED in there @Brigsy but looks bloody good once it’s there!!

Cracks me up how you find so many parts just bolt right in with the same fixing locations etc.. Makes you think that Renault have a Master 3D cad file for their engine bays, and just drop it into every car design..!? 🤔

Can hear that first crank video coming up very soon!!
 
I was thinking more the evolution of the small and large Cleon pushrod up to the d and e series where they switched to ohc though internally near identical and then the f series, all side by side you can see the changes/evolution/similarities between them all. Interchangeable gearboxs and stuff up to the JB too. Crazy how long its all lasted for of a very similar design.
 
Newer type valeo has larger bars instead of a load of small bars as original, same as the cheaper aftermarket rads. Usually fine for road use but temp will most likely creep up on track.

From looking not many options available now for mk2, its either chance your arm and see what Renault can get hold of, good used or the chinese alloy rads which are quite dear. Good used are hard to find as they are a weak rad, mine looked fine but pissed coolant out all over.
 
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