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Turbell
Well-Known Member
Door part 1....
Switched cars around and got Meg in garage, bit of a feck about, everything out to get it reversed in so I had room to drop drivers door off, unbolted it with a dolly under it so I could wheel it out of harms way,
Top hinge.
Bottom with rusty shims.
Top hinge looks like it's previously cracked and welded.....but on the piss.
And the mount.
Put a couple of nuts on, then straightened it with a box spanner, welded it up, right pain to grind it had to use mini tool with a carbide nibbler.
Cut hinge, straightened it and re welded it, ground face flat.
Found probable window issue, door loom pins green and on inspection a pin broken.
Does anyone know if these are a standard 2.8mm spade? Unpinned broken one and stripped corrosion of with hydrochloric acid.
Tomorrow I'll re fit door, bit of paint, done.
Switched cars around and got Meg in garage, bit of a feck about, everything out to get it reversed in so I had room to drop drivers door off, unbolted it with a dolly under it so I could wheel it out of harms way,
Top hinge.
Bottom with rusty shims.
Top hinge looks like it's previously cracked and welded.....but on the piss.
And the mount.
Put a couple of nuts on, then straightened it with a box spanner, welded it up, right pain to grind it had to use mini tool with a carbide nibbler.
Cut hinge, straightened it and re welded it, ground face flat.
Found probable window issue, door loom pins green and on inspection a pin broken.
Does anyone know if these are a standard 2.8mm spade? Unpinned broken one and stripped corrosion of with hydrochloric acid.
Tomorrow I'll re fit door, bit of paint, done.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
I knew this would be a faff .....many hours trying to get GTA doors to fit told me a big long, heavy door like Meg II wouldn't fall back on.
Shims in bottom didn't bode well either
Problem is you can't get to hinge bolts on post when the door is on, I avoided taking front wing off, as with modern cars I bet half the front end would need to come apart.
Bearing in mind the shit storm that it was I'd marked it up as it came off, leaving a tiny bit of the seam sealer bead that sat atop the hinge, hoping it wouldn't be too far off.
Enlisted Spadger to steady the door on the dolly and bolted it up.......
Oh deary me.....fookin miles off ...
Only thing I could do was take the wing off....
M6's out on the post and along the bonnet edge....but then I had a cunning plan, wheel off , arch liner off and with the wing loose on its door edge I could get a spanner in on the bolts, put. Jack under slight open door to support it and loosened the bolts, then jacked the door into right position.
Little adjustment on the striker plate and she's golden.
Two pins are snapped on car side of loom connector, windows still in op, but when I connected battery fooking folding mirror started to work, think I might chop a loom connector out at scrappy and see if I can Rob some pins and splice them in, can't find owt that looks same, they seem to have a metal female clip in the plastic part that locks the individual spades in place, I want it OE not bypassed.
Chuffed today, good look under arch liners and at front sub, no grot, far better than Clio III for subframe.
Shims in bottom didn't bode well either
Problem is you can't get to hinge bolts on post when the door is on, I avoided taking front wing off, as with modern cars I bet half the front end would need to come apart.
Bearing in mind the shit storm that it was I'd marked it up as it came off, leaving a tiny bit of the seam sealer bead that sat atop the hinge, hoping it wouldn't be too far off.
Enlisted Spadger to steady the door on the dolly and bolted it up.......
Oh deary me.....fookin miles off ...
Only thing I could do was take the wing off....
M6's out on the post and along the bonnet edge....but then I had a cunning plan, wheel off , arch liner off and with the wing loose on its door edge I could get a spanner in on the bolts, put. Jack under slight open door to support it and loosened the bolts, then jacked the door into right position.
Little adjustment on the striker plate and she's golden.
Two pins are snapped on car side of loom connector, windows still in op, but when I connected battery fooking folding mirror started to work, think I might chop a loom connector out at scrappy and see if I can Rob some pins and splice them in, can't find owt that looks same, they seem to have a metal female clip in the plastic part that locks the individual spades in place, I want it OE not bypassed.
Chuffed today, good look under arch liners and at front sub, no grot, far better than Clio III for subframe.
scrap yard loom chop would be my choice, should be shared between most Renaults of that era
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Door side I've acid washed, came out fine, car side had a pin missing, acid washed it and one iddy biddy pin was fooked, rest clean and OKThere are 2 types of door loom. Look at yours and find the part number and replace with one off eBay
The car side, eerrrrr yeah good luck
I'll get to breakers and chop one and swop pin and a short tail and splice them in, be reet.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Mixed results today, got a loom chop from a standard Meg two, took me a while to work out how to un pin the connections, but got there by chopping the cut out in half to see how it worked, ended up changing three pins in total and splicing tails in, drivers window back from the dead, mirrors adjustable and locking button now work, passenger window still not working, but I think that's because I don't think I plugged switch back in when we took door card off for a nose, starting pissing it down so just threw min on.
But.. I'm not happy with top hinge, still flexes, think a redesign is needed, stop is on hinge and door opens really wide, making hinge pull against post....toss, I'll think about it and I might see what reinforcement can be added, a soft stop on hinge might help as well.
Spadger came home just as I was wrapping up, so we had a hoon round estate, no lights on dash so think I'm getting somewhere.....his face .....brrrrmnn whoosh, brrrrmmmm
But.. I'm not happy with top hinge, still flexes, think a redesign is needed, stop is on hinge and door opens really wide, making hinge pull against post....toss, I'll think about it and I might see what reinforcement can be added, a soft stop on hinge might help as well.
Spadger came home just as I was wrapping up, so we had a hoon round estate, no lights on dash so think I'm getting somewhere.....his face .....brrrrmnn whoosh, brrrrmmmm
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Window fault finding continued...luck ran out, window switch was disconnected, but still no window, so delve deeper and get meter out.....
Five pins to window module, two earth's , one live and with some poking two pins that earth when either window switch is operated, so looks to me like temec module is fooked, same test with mod plugged in gives no juice on module output, assuming these outputs just give the motor juice either up or down.
Seems fairly conclusive, so I'll have a stab at a new one.
Five pins to window module, two earth's , one live and with some poking two pins that earth when either window switch is operated, so looks to me like temec module is fooked, same test with mod plugged in gives no juice on module output, assuming these outputs just give the motor juice either up or down.
Seems fairly conclusive, so I'll have a stab at a new one.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Twenty quid at breakers got me most replacements for sticky interior parts, a temic module and switch and some front arch liners, front bumper is scuffed up and on closer inspection I think it's had a look down a ditch, judging from front liners being cracked and tie wrapped and lower rad/bumper closing panel is AWOL, it's a different part no. to none RS cars, so I'll need to find one for the rad/intercooler to work efficiently.
Temic is a punt, I've no idea if this one works, but as it was a bundle price I thought I'd try it.
I can't immobilise the car and start front suspension refresh until garage is free, otherwise I'd block other stuff in, so that'll have to wait till later in year when I stop using iddy car and bike.
Temic is a punt, I've no idea if this one works, but as it was a bundle price I thought I'd try it.
I can't immobilise the car and start front suspension refresh until garage is free, otherwise I'd block other stuff in, so that'll have to wait till later in year when I stop using iddy car and bike.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Preloved temic window module solved passenger window.
Variable PAS ECU not responding is only remaining fault, although it doesn't flag a light on dash, possible it needs steering setting up left lock, centre , right lock business.... think I remember it showing status?24 or something????
But that's another day, celebrate with a mug of working class champagne and bask in the glory...
Variable PAS ECU not responding is only remaining fault, although it doesn't flag a light on dash, possible it needs steering setting up left lock, centre , right lock business.... think I remember it showing status?24 or something????
But that's another day, celebrate with a mug of working class champagne and bask in the glory...
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
Top man and the wallet lives to fight another day
Turbell
Well-Known Member
It's a game with me, amuses me, I can't avoid big spends eventually, belts, tensioners, new rubber, but the aim is to keep within the value of the finished car.
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
It's probably not going to work now, but when I got all the service bits for Malcolm's Logan Diesel. Autodoc were £100 cheaper on the belt kits than the same Gates kits trade price from the local factors. I kept wondering what the catch was, but there wasn't one.
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
The temic modules fail quite often. I recall double locking the ph1 on the handle and the drivers window dropped and refused to go back up. First time it had been out of the garage in 6 months and it started to rain
replaced and all good again.
Will be 100% improved with new suspension bits, especially control arm bushes. Check the subframe bushes too as they wear out, and the swivels whilst track rod ends are off.
replaced and all good again.Will be 100% improved with new suspension bits, especially control arm bushes. Check the subframe bushes too as they wear out, and the swivels whilst track rod ends are off.
Steve Swan
Well-Known Member
I'll stick to 60 year old rubbish upgraded with 40 year old rubbish!!! and only 40 wires in the whole vehicle
Turbell
Well-Known Member
I defer to whichever rubbish is cheapest, like a seagull picking in the bins, that's me....
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