Turbell
Well-Known Member
Usually reg wires on Laguna 2, I got quite quick at swoping wires and pulleys, cos I did that many on my and my mates, unfortunately I've forgotten everything.....
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Turbell
Well-Known Member
Right, little car is going on it's holidays to a storage unit, loads of shite sold and dumped, fat arse orange lump is now in the garage for some attention, decided I'm going to put a clutch in it whilst it's in bits, so a couple of questions.
1. Best way to tackle it ? Drop sub I assume and drop box?
2. Is it a given to swop DMF? Clutch is a bit high, and I haven't really driven it in anger, hence thought I'd swap it anyway, so
3. What do I put in, OE? LUK kit I can get for 400 full kit, don't envisage any need for upgrading , at this age I think it'll be wise to leave it standard and keep on top of the gremlins as they surface, rather than push a 90k mile car and it go bang.
Ta
1. Best way to tackle it ? Drop sub I assume and drop box?
2. Is it a given to swop DMF? Clutch is a bit high, and I haven't really driven it in anger, hence thought I'd swap it anyway, so
3. What do I put in, OE? LUK kit I can get for 400 full kit, don't envisage any need for upgrading , at this age I think it'll be wise to leave it standard and keep on top of the gremlins as they surface, rather than push a 90k mile car and it go bang.
Ta
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Id run the standard clutch until it slips, the biting point is quite high on our meg, but still holds 300ft/lb ok so not getting changed until its knackered.
Subframe off and drop gearbox leaving engine in. Not too bad to do.
Engines are reliable enough when correctly tuned, so you could get it mapped without too much drama. Worth considering before going for oem setup. Smf and r26r clutch is a nice upgrade.
Whilst box is off stick a r26 lsd in too. Transforms the handling.
Subframe off and drop gearbox leaving engine in. Not too bad to do.
Engines are reliable enough when correctly tuned, so you could get it mapped without too much drama. Worth considering before going for oem setup. Smf and r26r clutch is a nice upgrade.
Whilst box is off stick a r26 lsd in too. Transforms the handling.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Thanks @Brigsy , I'll get it up on stands and mull it over, I'm only thinking of wacking one in to future proof it , cost of DMF is stumbling block , I'm happy to drop a 200 quid clutch in even if the old one has some miles left on it, what I don't want, is for it to go on him 6 months on and garage be back full of shite and be stuck.
I'll strip suspenders first and tick that off, all belts as well, see where we're at, pretty sure rear calipers are sticky too.
I'll strip suspenders first and tick that off, all belts as well, see where we're at, pretty sure rear calipers are sticky too.
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
I would just run it until the clutch slips if your not replacing the dmf. Can gaurantee the dmf will be past its best at 90k and might fail shortly after resulting in doing it all over again. I used a 2nd hand dmf/new stock clutch in my Kangoo and it did not last so ended up doing the job twice.
When clutch goes stick dmf or smf and clutch to suit and job done for good.
When clutch goes stick dmf or smf and clutch to suit and job done for good.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Yep, that's where my head is telling me to go, LUK good enough?
I can't say for sure where he'll go with it as regards mapping, that'll be up to him in the future, I'm just after it being right OE for now, do what it says in the tin, all working as it should, 5 Camprust might get some beasting, when it's retired from daily duties.....
I can't say for sure where he'll go with it as regards mapping, that'll be up to him in the future, I'm just after it being right OE for now, do what it says in the tin, all working as it should, 5 Camprust might get some beasting, when it's retired from daily duties.....
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
I think luk is oem so you wont go too wrong with that setup. Luk slave cylinder is ok too iirc it has the metal pipe.
Flywheel bolts are one hit wonder too so change them whilst in there. The luk kit may come with them, if not they arent too dear from Renault. Also worth noting, the pressure plate is self adjusting and needs fitting with the springs in the set position so it clamps the clutch plate properly.
Worth checking the crank seal whilst apart too, they all seem to leak. Ideally needs fitting with the genuine renault tool as a bastard to get right without, so if its just wet then might be worth leaving it.
Flywheel bolts are one hit wonder too so change them whilst in there. The luk kit may come with them, if not they arent too dear from Renault. Also worth noting, the pressure plate is self adjusting and needs fitting with the springs in the set position so it clamps the clutch plate properly.
Worth checking the crank seal whilst apart too, they all seem to leak. Ideally needs fitting with the genuine renault tool as a bastard to get right without, so if its just wet then might be worth leaving it.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
I'll drop it out whilst I'm doing suspension, full kit, check seal as well, sub will be lighter/easier with arms off, few other jobs to box off on other projects then I can start tear down, refurb arms, stubs etc, have it all ready to bolt together.
Thanks for info, you're a gent.
Thanks for info, you're a gent.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
New territory for me, bit modern....so lots of looking and wondering, but I've got n/s strut off.
Couple of casualties, disc retaining torx chewed up like cheese, that'll need extracting, drop link wouldn't have it, despite backing it back and forth, Allen head in threaded part opened up so out with hacksaw.
Disc took some wacking to loosen it away, not a dribble of copaslip on it , @Brigsy guide on swivels was invaluable, cos I ain't been in on one these before, ta again.
Bottom swivel was no way gonna come off on car so I dropped strut ( quick whip off of flexy on car, cos I was holding the weight of the strut when I realised hose goes through strut bracket......I could just reach. 11mm to undo flare nut, deffo an Italian job moment!
With strut on garage floor I chased it round the garage floor for a while before I got mains dugga dugga out, took some shifting.
Fooked,
Outer CV has a bit of play, wheel bearing feels plush, bottom ballpoint feels fine, TR aren't bad, I'll replaced whatever I've got new, anything else will be based on how easy it's to return to in future, such as discs have plenty of meat on them , so I'll clean up and reuse
Had enough about after 3 hours, so tidied up and shut the door, slow start but it all looks doable.
Couple of casualties, disc retaining torx chewed up like cheese, that'll need extracting, drop link wouldn't have it, despite backing it back and forth, Allen head in threaded part opened up so out with hacksaw.
Disc took some wacking to loosen it away, not a dribble of copaslip on it , @Brigsy guide on swivels was invaluable, cos I ain't been in on one these before, ta again.
Bottom swivel was no way gonna come off on car so I dropped strut ( quick whip off of flexy on car, cos I was holding the weight of the strut when I realised hose goes through strut bracket......I could just reach. 11mm to undo flare nut, deffo an Italian job moment!
With strut on garage floor I chased it round the garage floor for a while before I got mains dugga dugga out, took some shifting.
Fooked,
Outer CV has a bit of play, wheel bearing feels plush, bottom ballpoint feels fine, TR aren't bad, I'll replaced whatever I've got new, anything else will be based on how easy it's to return to in future, such as discs have plenty of meat on them , so I'll clean up and reuse
Had enough about after 3 hours, so tidied up and shut the door, slow start but it all looks doable.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Balljoints feel fine , if I can I'll leave them, but I'll probably chuck the arms into the blasters with some other stuff cos he always just charges me 20 quid for a boot full of tat, straight in back pocket, so it depends if boots are OK and keep shit out, are outer CVs usual, shafts are floppy and there's definitely a tad of play, bit of clicking when I drove it, but I've only driven it a couple of miles, I don't think it's had a lot of spanners near it, everything is untouched, calipers have been rattle canned, I'll make some blanks for hard pipes and strip them to make sure everything is dandy.
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Outer cvs do wear on these. You can buy a shaftec outer that fits straight on, use a thin stainless band cv boot clip to clear the hub.
Might be worth popping a couple of balljoints in if arms are going to theblasters. Espace balljoints fit as meg arent listed separate, oem trw are cheap.
Might be worth popping a couple of balljoints in if arms are going to theblasters. Espace balljoints fit as meg arent listed separate, oem trw are cheap.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Always gets worse before it gets better .......more evidence to some ditch action, thats gonna need some bash and hot stick.....
Bit of rot on brace plates as well, I take it I need to drop this front subframe to get wishbone bolts out ? Or am I missing something.
I'm figuring out as I go, no manual .
Has the full sub got drop for box coming out?
Does rack get unbolted and stay where it is?
@Brigsy ?
Bit of rot on brace plates as well, I take it I need to drop this front subframe to get wishbone bolts out ? Or am I missing something.
I'm figuring out as I go, no manual .
Has the full sub got drop for box coming out?
Does rack get unbolted and stay where it is?
@Brigsy ?
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
Front radiator support needs to be dropped to get access to the wishbone front bolts. Rad pack needs to be tied up, i usually use a ratchet strap.
Full subframe needs to be dropped to remove the box. Rack stays on the subframe, undo the uj that joins the column from inside the car. Be careful and dont move the rack or steering wheel when its off, it needs to go back in the same position or the steering wheel squib will be set up incorrectly and could damage the ribbon.
The subframe supports always rot, quite cheap new from ren iirc.
Full subframe needs to be dropped to remove the box. Rack stays on the subframe, undo the uj that joins the column from inside the car. Be careful and dont move the rack or steering wheel when its off, it needs to go back in the same position or the steering wheel squib will be set up incorrectly and could damage the ribbon.
The subframe supports always rot, quite cheap new from ren iirc.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I should get rest of suspension off this weekend, get it all refurbished, then I'll drop subframe and box.
At least it's in garage and I can walk away from it when I'm not sure WTF I'm doing......5,9,11,19, early Clio all same family set up, this is way out off my radar.
At least it's in garage and I can walk away from it when I'm not sure WTF I'm doing......5,9,11,19, early Clio all same family set up, this is way out off my radar.
Brigsy
Media Mogul. Instagram legend.
They are reasonable enough to work on you will suss it. Check the subframe and subframe support bushes whilst its in bits as they can fail with mileage/age.
Only difficult bit is bleeding the clutch. Prefill your new concentric slave before refitting as it will save you a world of pain.
Only difficult bit is bleeding the clutch. Prefill your new concentric slave before refitting as it will save you a world of pain.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Thought after stripping n/s , o/s would be quicker.......how wrong I was.
Looked deffo crustier
Bottom three M8's ......loads of ally corrosion spewing out of join, didn't bode well, sure enough front one.....not a chance, spanner was flexing, u had a bar rammed in to keep spanner square on the head, but I knew I was fighting a losing battle, step and have a think.
Fuck it , hacksaw through bottom BJ would release assembly, then I could tackle M8's with impact sockets, heat, welder , whatever
Then BJ taper could be split out, no casualties that mattered.
Bonus old boot clip living in there, still round inner of shaft.
Wacked an impact socket on and it wazzed off a treat, BJ taper wacked out, back to normal service.......
Or so I thunked ...pinch bolt on n/s fought me, but this fecker....hear, diesel, wack, impact, repeat..... sacrificed bolt for the greater good
It's free and spinning, chopped damaged bit off so I drive it out without scraping ally, chucked it in as I'd got to take missus somewhere..... glad tbh....
Just been back in to clean up, sea of tools across floor etc.
Dust boots tipped up, swivel bearings on order, clean this side up and paint it , like other.
Get these built back up with struts before I go any further, put them to one side and then tackle wishbones.
Looked deffo crustier
Bottom three M8's ......loads of ally corrosion spewing out of join, didn't bode well, sure enough front one.....not a chance, spanner was flexing, u had a bar rammed in to keep spanner square on the head, but I knew I was fighting a losing battle, step and have a think.
Fuck it , hacksaw through bottom BJ would release assembly, then I could tackle M8's with impact sockets, heat, welder , whatever
Then BJ taper could be split out, no casualties that mattered.
Bonus old boot clip living in there, still round inner of shaft.
Wacked an impact socket on and it wazzed off a treat, BJ taper wacked out, back to normal service.......
Or so I thunked ...pinch bolt on n/s fought me, but this fecker....hear, diesel, wack, impact, repeat..... sacrificed bolt for the greater good
It's free and spinning, chopped damaged bit off so I drive it out without scraping ally, chucked it in as I'd got to take missus somewhere..... glad tbh....
Just been back in to clean up, sea of tools across floor etc.
Dust boots tipped up, swivel bearings on order, clean this side up and paint it , like other.
Get these built back up with struts before I go any further, put them to one side and then tackle wishbones.
Turbell
Well-Known Member
Does anyone want pinch bolts or the bottom balljoint carrier bolts before I order some, I've found equivalent? They aren't cheap due to size and thread( well pinch bolts anyhow if I'm to keep to fine) don't know how much they are from dealers, but two pinch bolts are about 19 quid, obvs post kills buying two, plus nuts.
I'll skim them anyway, so you can buy if you want later this week.
I'll skim them anyway, so you can buy if you want later this week.
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