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Megane Inferno 3 door phase one 225

I usually use a half inch ring spanner on the lower 3 bolts and shock them with the hammer. Bit of grease when refitting. The shock pinch bolt can be a bastard i had to heat the last one up as super corroded.
 
I did try wacking it, but spanner just climbed off bolt, I couldn't keep pry bar in, hold spanner and get a decent blow, if it had been on a two poster with someone holding pry bar, then it might of worked.
Only other way if you wanted to not wreck BJ would have been to clean BJ threads up perfectly, wound nut up to swivel bolt as far as possible, then used a fork splitter, rather than clamp BJ splitter, broke taper away and hoped you wind BJ nut off with it not being held in taper.
Needles were in bits this side, I assumed gutter side would be worse , but o/s is proper fecked, bottom arm bushes are toasted, sound like haunted house doors.
 
Just as a correction, bottom BJ bracket has m10x30x1.5mm pitch bolts,not m8, 13mm head threw me off after faff of trying to match strut pinch bolts, which I chucked in as a bad job due expense and trouble sourcing thread type, flange bollocks. OE ren was better bet.
Replacement m10x30x1.5mm pitch bolts will come with a 15mm head, which won't matter......I'm a dunce sometimes...
 
Keep going in garage and having a few hours here and there, heater on, therapy init.
Got it in my head to get all suspension refurbed and together in big lumps, new R26 shockers met Preloved Eibach springs with new tops and dust/bump stops.....very nice
Thought I'd put swivels back together, all painted and uprights cleaned up and a coat of lacquer to help out where anodised finish had gone,but ......
I always chuck everything like bolts I'm keeping in a bucket of BH deox, leave them to soak rust off, wire brush , soak again if needed......well I'd left swivel centre drums ( threaded inner part ) in for a while, hoping they'd polish up something like......well they won't, no use wishing, they is fecked, using them will probably just shit on my parade at some point , so I'm gonna take them in to a few engineers I know and see if I can replicate them.
So I've carried on stripping, dropped front rad support and got wishbones out, bolts were a dream, easy as.

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One drop link has seen the slitting disc , one anti rotation link same, get them to blasters and then see what mandrels I need to push bushes out/get them back in, there's plenty to do if swivels take a while, I can start dropping box out if I get stuck
Nothing I didn't expect with this, if you go to bed with an itchy arse......expect to wake up with smelly fingers .....
 
Can get stainless inserts for the swivel bearings from Renault Hub Bearings if needs be. I bought one a while back the quality is good.
 
I'll see what I can rustle up price wise, there's a few people I can run it by, take advice on best steel to use etc, people clevererer than I .....they are hardly an involved piece of machining, piece of EN? bar turned down to 45mm, by whatever length is, thread down centre , with a recess on one centre .
Job jobbed.
 
Last week or so spare time, tanked both wishbones and chopped bottoms off balljoints si I could see exactly what I pressing out, bushes drllied and then cut and split out.

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Pulled front bush in with threaded bar.

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Pressed balljoints and robot donuts in, one fought a bit, Bilt Hamber, zinc prime and then splogged them with some two pack solid black, it's no show finish but tougher than anything else I had, so be reet

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Rest of it is all tanked and rust free, Bilt then zinc blah blah....lower balljoint mounts pre paint.


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No further on with swivel inserts other than they'll be either 316 stainless or EN24T....
Think I'm ready to drop box now, all suspenders are ready.
Onwards and upwards.
 
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Box is ready to drop, I haven't undone slave union yet, but all bellhousing bolts are out, everything else disconnected, box and engine are supported on separate stands and jack's, I've unbolted gearbox mount main bolt and side bolts and there doesn't seem to be a lot of movement on the box.
Does the main bolt through the mount resist or is it a case of taking the whole mount caboodle off?
I've sacked it off today, I know I'm working at a snails pace.....I'm just grabbing an hour or two here and there.
 
It's off, thanks to a few @Brigsy pointers.

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To be fair as I started stripping this car in this area all the bolts seem to tightened by a mouse..,..started to look like it'd been apart, clutch is half worn at worst, pressure,friction and DMF are all LUK, but I can't find a date stamp.
DMF seems sloppy, 30mm rotation play 3mm side rock with some rattles.....really not my era so it'll all just get replaced.
Slave is a Valeo stamped late '08, which would be three years newer than car, so it either had this full set up in '08 or it's on second and they didn't bother with slave that time around.
Gearbox mount is toastedIMG_20220103_140414553_HDR.webp
If I hadn't got it in garage doing suspension I wouldn't have bothered doing clutch, it felt high and the little I drove it I seemed to ride it after changing, dunno, too late now I'm committed, it's his money anyhow.....fuck him.....I'll spend it for him.
Think crank seal would be beneficial anyhow, bit more than damp.
 
Good to hear you got it apart ok.

Defo needs a crank seal by the looks of it, also they love to leak oil of the sides of the main bearing cap when the sealant breaks down so might be worth popping the sump off and doing that. I didnt do the sealant on my kangoo, and still get a bit of oil from that area, not excessive enough to fuck about taking sump off though.
 
I assume I can do that after box is back on? As stand is currently holding the lump up ATM , I can't be sure where oil leak is coming from, so it'd make sense to reseal sump..............good job he ain't paying labour...........
 
Have a look at it once flywheel is off. I dare say you could do it now with engine supported by a crane etc if needs be. Sump gasket is rubber so slip a new one on if its gone a bit hard.

Ill warn you in advance if using new genuine ren flywheel bolts you will need a socket to suit, from memory its Torx Plus t50.
 
Torx plus - I had to google that. Great, yet another variant of tools we all need to buy at some point!
Hmmm, also known as paralobe, but I'm not finding many about, apparently standard torx fit, but paralobes have a curved edge for extra grip.
Flywheel bolts were fookin tight, I had my doubts when I took old DMF off, that squeaky bum time when you're wondering if head will chew before they let go ......
I've had to take to my sick bed as I've just spunked 900 sheets on all genuine DMF, clutch kit,slave and full genuine cam/aux kit......
I found a luk full clutch and flywheel for 400 on fleabay, all numbers matched , description, but on checking with seller they stated ( in a generic fashion ) kit wasn't suitable.....now I'm all in on having punts based on part numbers, but I smelled a rat, a fat 400 quid rat, so after looking at other options, I've took the plunge.
RPD are cheap OE , keep an eye on sales and discount coupons when available.
Working on cars like these in a single garage full of shit isn't fun, so I'm going safe, job lot and be done
S/H bumper has saved us a packet on paint and will be comparable to rest of car, few marks, few scratches, who cares.
Think we'll hit about 3k when it's got a ticket on it, but at that it'll be well sorted and have a good bit of future proofing in it.
I hope...
 
Nah, close, Mégane Diesel estate, good old wagon.....20 quid tax, 200 insurance, 60mpg motorway cruise.....I wonder what attracted me to it......??
 
If you need a single torx plus for the new flywheel bolts ebay is the best place. I bought a single one for about £5 delivered. I wouldnt trust a normal torx, as they need to be angle tightened, one slip and your in the shit😆
 
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