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Megane Inferno 3 door phase one 225

Damage prob done when selector was stiff and its finally given up. The stiff selector puts loads of stress on the rest of the components, ive heard of a few cables breaking. Bosh a new set of oem cables on from kam whilst in the area.
This is the most sensible explanation, I can see that the bush clips may have broke a while back, during the time selector was stiff, bush has been 'walking' it's way out, finally dropped out, the left/right pivot no longer limiting fore/aft travel, the worn ball clips have let go , hence double fault.
Timing is unfortunate for dealer.

That explanation will keep me sane.
Gear mech is at Turb-elderest , he's turning a bush to fit onto existing bush to bring length out of mech case, then I'll put an M8 bolt through it with penny washers and a plain nut locked up to a nyloc , so it's secure without crushing up the pivot and causing binding.
When theory is in practice and sound, I'll get Turbaby to order cables from KAM
 
Couple of collers turned up by old fella, just so they sit slightly proud, drilled bush out as it's blind at clip end, M8 bolt ( had to cut a bit more thread down it to get shank length to bush width ) couple of washers then a nut just nipping it all together, nyloc locked up against it for safety.
Order some new cables, then roll around in wet and cold putting it all back.
Joy.
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Done.
New cables didn't come with heat sleeving on, no way to slide them on/off so cut them lengthways and stainless tie wrapped them on.
There for a reason , so didn't want to omit them.

Fight with heat shield, had to repair over axle section, but all back together and dandy.

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Just wait for next calamity....
 
Well life with a old Renaultsport is never dull.
I was awakened from a Nightshift slumber by the sound of my Lad returning from today's site visit to Tunbridge Wells about 20 mins after setting off......crossedmy mind to roll over and ignore, but curiousity got the better of me.
In short, flashing engine light and abs warnings.
Past experience with this usually points to a few spurious warning lights and CLIP is needed to see what's actually going on.

After a coffee and a shower whilst he went on the train, I hooked up the elderly notebook and CLIP to see what's what, airbag lights never last long before they reappear, quick spray and attach/ reattach sorts them, ABS showed right front sensor at fault stored, cleared that, see how it fairs, UCH faults deleted, looked in connection to card, but again see what reappear, injection fault DF062 misfire and DF065 no 4 misfire.
Everything cleared and a spin round block with an unhappy sounding car, deffo not happy on a cylinder .
Pulled coil on no4 ( I am assuming from fly 1-4??) nearest cam belt, plug was loose.....I never go bonkers tightening little plugs in alloy head , but this seemed strange, plug is brown, next out not loose, swopped these two over see if fault moves, and checked next two , shopping coils over as I have doubt about which is 1 on these for some reason??

Anyway, nearest cambelt is brown, others are greyer, took it out seemed worse, CLIP on, only showed misfire, not a cylinder, swopped all coils to origin positions, back to misfire and no4 fault.

Three coils look OE valeo, one coil is a Bosch
Two looms have good looking wiring replacement, shrinked and soldered by the looks.

Current thought is sling some new coils on, perhaps plugs as well if one has suffered with a bad coil, although they are correct and not old.

Please can anyone recommend coil replacements from Autodoc? @Brigsy ??
 
Number 1 is fly end.

Plugs come loose in the f4r if not properly tight, need torquing to 28nm.

It will most likely be injector or coilpack. Beru coils from autodoc are oem buy the cheap ones not the dear ones.

Do a compression test though just incase - have seen them misfire when low comp on a cylinder.
 
Cheers, @Brigsy , I'll get him to order some, is it just CAS sensor off on these to spin it up for comp?
I'm always wary on modern stuff , I don't want do any elecktrical crazy megacycle ECU confusion shite.....always get stomach turns when CLIP comes out, deffo clockwork orientation in my head...
 
I just unplug coil packs and injectors when comp testing these as crank sensor is a nightmare to get to, hold throttle wide opwn and hit start, it will crank then shut off after a few secs with non start. It will chuck check injection on briefly but will sort itself out once everything is reconnected.
 
Praise the Lord, The Virgin Mary and sweet baby Jesus.....and @Brigsy .....
New set of Beru coils and a set of plugs in case, back to a happy 225.
Biggest box I've ever got from Autodoc, can't fault prices and service, but packing is woeful, Meg diesel rad , coils, plugs, boot struts and 5 wiper blades, lobbed in , rattling about from Germany.....not a fanny pad of bubble wrapIMG_20240731_202508808_HDR.webp
 
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Going right off at a Tangent.. I've been watching Rat Rods for Africa, on youtube, a guy called Diff is building a Renobug which is a combination of Beetle and 4cv. In the latest instalment he has decided to fit Landy rear lights into the rear wings. It was your car he used as the This is how it should be..... Fame at last
 
Update , spans a few months.
Car has been issued free since coil pack problem other than usual niggles.
Spadger had been complaining about rear pad rattle, I tried a new TRW carrier, made no improvement, then new springs which solved it, I'd put some pre loved ones in when I built car, but new ones were man strong..... obvious really , but live and learn.

Drivers window reg failed, I really enjoy putting new cables in these, nearly as much as taking 225 door cards on and off.
Reg done , the car rewarded us with a Dicky electric mirror, mind if it's own, I'd noticed there were some locating tangs on the window reg frames which were bent flat, so I bent them back out as I realised these were meant to locate on door card, stopping the horrid rattly sound when you shut the door, but soon it was apparent why they were bent, it's a fucking farce getting the door card on and located.
He wasn't impressed mirror didn't work , but I'd had enough, left it as it was. Fuck him.

Roll on a few months , reverse light has packed up, I've gone deaf to car issues, can't be arsed, but test is looming so I've got to sort it.
So we had an afternoon on it, first switch he got was wrong, and first time I looked at it I was trying to get neutral switch off, until he correct me looking at catcar.....so battery off etc to get to top.
I think you need a special socket to get these off, as a 21 oped ender goes on, but a ring spins, but there's not much room, so a little short adjustable got in .
I wanted to test the stitch before I changed it, but three meters and every one flat....great , no batteries either, took everything apart to rob a 6LR 9v battery to get one working, new switch was keener, but old one did work, so I dropped new switch in, and put jump leads on batt to car terminals so I could see if reverse lights were now fixed before putting battery tray etc back on, I didn't want a wiring issue to be actual fault.
Luckily all good, so back together.
Next up, new s/h door loom, as locking cam was broken anyway which caused wiring issues when we bought car sick, I'd re pinned car side where it was corroded but just clean door loom pins.

Soooo, door card off, matched new loom against old and changed them over, faff , faff, faff getting it all back together and door card on properly.

Rewarded with no working mirror, agreed at least we'd not fucked anything else up.
Next , we've got plenty of mirrors , so plug one in without dropping card off.
Great day, enjoyed it.
No pictures , cos they'd be crap anyway.
 
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